Shop Truck

Does a better option exist, block wise, for my requirements? MRA says I have to use an IRON block. Wasn't Zach casting some 6.7 stuff?? I need to sell a few more items to get the sleeved 6.7 thing going.

I don't think I've lived up to my end of the bargain yet with Philip Price so I will need to purchase a 6.7 set-up. I was thinking Blacks Diesel???
 
I also wanted to ask for those who are following and curious, why am I paying so much attention to how low the Transformer Shop Truck sets??
 
jasonc said:
Cause fat girls can't jump?
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You know if any of ya intend on meeting me, lol ...your gonna have to meet the lady that lives with this madness. She is twice as mean as me and waaaayyyyy prettier!!

That is funny though!!

The ultra lowering is what I am going to call the 'Bullet Effect'. The acceleration game along with wind forces are no stranger to the world of bullet design. Additionally, I would guess that a bullet is the quickest accelerating mass on earth?? I have not googled it yet.
 
Pretty sure the record is still held by the US Navy's "Rail Gun"... IIRC, it launches a projectile at around 10 miles a second... Or maybe it's Mach 7.
 
Yeah, the less air resistance, the faster it can go, so if you can go lower, less air under it to slow you down.

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Precisely. I studied aerodynamics some in school but never had a reason to really take a hard look at it.

Knowing if everything works half way decent, we should be in the 150-170 MPH range. I know everyone is going that fast or faster. Have you ever tried to stick your hand out the window at say 100MPH. Even at 100mph, the wind resistance is enough to carry extra boost with my old '90 model. Extra boost equates to more power. The slicker I can get the 'Transformer Shop Truck' to cut through the air, the less power I will need to go that fast.

During my research, and watching and reading up on Larry Larson, the more air you can direct up and over the vehicle, the more air you sort of have control over. Also, I didn't see any rules that limits anyone's arrangement of the skin.

An old friend (Joe Hartley) said it years ago, even before we had cell phones, He was late for showing up at the house and I gave him a call. He said I am on my way and "I will have her ears pinned back". lol He used to drive a 78-79 3/4 ton ford around when we were 'Holler Hopp'n' back in the day. He ended up on top of a small car at our local hang out before he started tapering off. lol
 
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Bodacious said:
How about the other end of the bullet. Any correlation to acceleration here that I need to look at??
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Such as "boat-tail" vs flat base bullets? Sure, at the level you're aiming for there is probably something to be gained with airflow at the back. Not as much as the front, but something. If nothing else, some sort of small spoiler for downforce, perhaps even do a removable front spoiler/splitter for use on asphalt tracks?

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zstroken said:
Actually it does have an advantage, as the sleeves are better quality metal than the block itself.
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I'm not on board with that. The sleeves are only so thick, where the solid block has 6 holes poked in a 7.5"x29.5" chunk of iron that is supposed to be better than factory spec.

Another thing I think is that this block can be less likely to lift if the main studs were long enough to go up in to the area where water used to be.
 
9724VF350 said:
I'm not on board with that. The sleeves are only so thick, where the solid block has 6 holes poked in a 7.5"x29.5" chunk of iron that is supposed to be better than factory spec.

Another thing I think is that this block can be less likely to lift if the main studs were long enough to go up in to the area where water used to be.
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So what about this LSM water block I have. You can look in there and see the sleeve in a couple places. To me, this means the sleeve is taking all of the force??
 
...and I have never had one of the sleeves out. If you watch how the modern, open deck blocks are sleeved, the dang sleeve is really thick in the top portion. Maybe even as much as an inch deep with a wall over a half inch thick. Basically eliminating some of the forces the block was originally designed to take.

Edit: This was the first thing I thought of when I took delivery of this factory aluminum cummins stuff.
 
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9724VF350 said:
I'm not on board with that. The sleeves are only so thick, where the solid block has 6 holes poked in a 7.5"x29.5" chunk of iron that is supposed to be better than factory spec.

Another thing I think is that this block can be less likely to lift if the main studs were long enough to go up in to the area where water used to be.
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Still not as good as a Ductile Iron Sleeve for some aspects, however it could be argued that taking out the material will take away from block strength as far as splitting the block horizontally.
 
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Have you all paid attention to how the first engine company to offer an all aluminum diesel engine to the public here in the U.S. got all that figured out??
 
Basing the viability of sleeves on an aluminum block is comparing apples to oranges. They obviously aren't going to run aluminum bores.
 
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