Another rusty ugly budget drag truck

There is a reason you don't see boxed crosmembers on C channel frames. They flex (twist)with the frame. If they are boxed they are not attached to the top and bottom of the C channel.

Not true...

BTW...they don't design in frame twist. It is just a resultant of economics.

http://www.streetpros.com/product_info/category/382/pos/25/products_id/38733/Rear_Axle_Relocator_-_6%22_Drop.html



Still in progress...

The flip kit doesnt fit a 2500, it is listed to fit both 2500 and 3500. I have a 3.5" axle tube and these are 4". I think they are only compatible with the 3500 and dana 80. Apparently i have a dana 70.

That looks similar to the crap airbagit.com sells. I had to cut about an inch or so off the top where it seats into the original spring perch. I think they think all 8 lug is the same, mine looked like they were for a chevy 14 bolt.

I contacted streetpros and they promptly got back to me asking for pictures and measurements. I sent them these photos so I hope they make it right.

I also sqaured up the frame and qaudruple checked with diagonal measurements and an angle finder. I think I got it right although zfaylor said the top bolt hole lined up with a factory hole when you line it back together. I think je meant ypu can use it to line it up but you still need to drill two additional holes in top for the crossmember. I still need to notch the lip on the frame so the crossmember can slide in, the front half od the frame has a lip that prevents it from fitting.

Street pros gave me the option to modify the saddle or return the kit. I have decided to return and I will be purchasing some perches on ebay for $30. They are marketed as anti wrap perches and a little longer. Hopefuly I can get a decent weld to secure them to the axle. I will also be grabbing some plates and probably longer ubolts as well. I had to remove the passenger shock mount to get the crossmember in so I will most likely cut and weld that onto the rear of the axle. Im going back to a full spring pack with hopes if being able to tow a race car. Also because tyler kipp had such success with the axle flip and a full pack. He also has a 2" add a leaf, I opted to notch the frame instead of doing the add a leaf.

The springs and spring hangers are complete. Also the crossmember is installed after A bit of trimming.

I realized the anti wrap perches are for spring over axle. Back to the drawing board. Clean my shorty tank and installed the sump. Here is a quick comparison photo.

I gave in and trimmed the perches. The ubolts that came with the flip kit are too long and the plates are huge. So i wasted $125 on a flip kit that i will only use the saddles from. For the time being i mocked up the rear end with factory ubolts And plates. I will make some or buy some before i drive it. I measures 50.5" from the output shaft seal to the face of the yoke for the driveshaft. I imagine the driveshaft needs to be about 3" longer than that for proper contact to output shaft. I also tacked my cnotch on and reinforcement box tube on the inside. I was wrapping up for the day when i realized i could throw rhe wheels on and see what the ride height looks like. Well its way to low, maybe some lowering shackles will raise it an inch or so now that it's flipped. Altough i have the axle placed where i want it and modifying shackles may move it a bit.

Your drive shaft will be shorter than that from u joint to u joint mine was around 47.5" center to center

I made flat plates to go over the axle where the stock plate is in yhe above photos. I realized the plate would decrease me travel and hit the notch so I threw on the ubolts and plates that came in the flip kit. I dont know if this will work because nothing is preventing the axle from twisting in the ubolts. Unless I weld the saddles to the axle.








Also the tank is in and the frames is all bolted back together.

First test drive with the shorty today. The rear is rocking in the u bolts. It has about half inch between the saddle and stock perch and its sliding back and forth. Not sure if the ubolts need to be tightened or if I am going to end up welding the saddle to the axle. I would like to get it on a drive on lift and set pinion angle before I so any welding, and this little lincoln handy pack is not up the task. I welded the notches with it but the welds are cold and lacking penetration. I may bolt them also. The rear sits 1.5" lower than the front measured from fender to floor. I will probably get an add a leaf to raise the back a bit. I need the room for the slicks and I have heard cutting the front springs hurts transfer and traction at the track. Also the rear end is 1" forward in the wheel well. Not sure if this is common for shortbed swap or if I did something wrong. All the bed bolts do line up though!

I forgot to get a picture of the plates I made using the stock axle plate as a template. They are flat where as the stock ubolt plate is curved to go under the axle. I installed the flate plates over the axle on the stock perch. I used the factory ubolts. This keeps the pinion angle like stock and does not allow the axle to move. I have been driving the truck the last couple days to work and a little beating on it. It hooks. Night and day difference. I used to spin so bad it wouldnt accelerate till od. Now from a 40roll it seems to get traction almost immediately. It may be spinning but its still putting enough power down to accelerate. Before the flip I would have to pedal it because it would blow the tires away. Im still playing with tv cable zip tie and line pressure. Trying to get it up to the 180psi range. I checked boost yesterday in od wot and it was 58-60psi. I did not have the electric fuel pump on so it may make more boost with the pump on.

I drive to work at 5am and the stock headlights even with sylvania bulbs were garbage. I upgraded to the black euro lights on amazon. With a set of 6k hids they were $125 shipped. Well worth it I can see again.

I feel like flat black is played out but plastidip is just too easy. With 30$ in paint and less than 3hr time I was aboe to paint the cab. I only did one coat because I ran out if light. I think I am going to do the bed as well. I couldnt stand driving a mismatched truck. Really need some wheels now.

Looks pretty good! My truck is mismatched as well and can't stand it either. What kind of wheels and tires are you thinking about buying for it when the time comes?

Whatever I find on craigslist cheap. Maybe 3rd or 4th gen aluminum wheels.

Any reason why you'd be against welding the perches?

The one I have purchased and am going to use will be welded. I was trying not to weld them because that means I have to pay someone else to do it. My welder at home doesnt have the balls and I cant bring my truck into the shop and do it at work

Trying to make it to the track saturday but I have the flu and dont know when i will be better.

Looks sweet