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Old 01-21-2019, 02:22 PM   #21
jstaylor954
 
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Sounds good. I have 4.10 gears with just slightly larger tires. I actually picked up a s300g cat turbo that is a 60/65/14 that i might swap on later just to compare to the he351.
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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-21-2019, 02:27 PM   #22
jasonc

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The he351 is probably a safer bet if your worried how it tows heavy. They have a good rep, enlarge the gate and I bet it would be a good match for what your wanting. I've never tried the 351, back when I put my set together, those chargers were still on late models.
 
Old 01-21-2019, 04:35 PM   #23
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As long as your fan clutch is working properly the stock rad will cool just fine. My temp drops like a rock when pulling heavy and the fan kicks on, that was this summer when it was over a hundred here.
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:23 AM   #24
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So we made some progress on the truck. Got the head removed and bottom tapped the bolt holes. We are going to try and remove the rear freeze plug later today and get ready to install the water bypass. I want to clean up the engine some and paint the head before we install it. I will try and take more photos later today. Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-23-2019, 08:22 AM   #25
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Is now a good time to check the oil cooler bypass valve? Anything else that i should look at while its apart?
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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-23-2019, 08:43 AM   #26
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I'd leave it alone if your oil pressure was good.
 
Old 01-23-2019, 08:44 AM   #27
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Only thing I'd do you haven't mentioned would be to glue down your intake plenum gasket good.
 
Old 01-23-2019, 08:50 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
Only thing I'd do you haven't mentioned would be to glue down your intake plenum gasket good.
Ok. What works best to glue it down with?
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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-23-2019, 09:19 AM   #29
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I personally like ultra grey Permatex Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker - Permatex



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Old 01-24-2019, 10:42 AM   #30
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Making some progress. Got all freeze plugs in the engine and hose on for water bypass. Put manifold studs in the new head but going to remove manifold to paint head tonight. Also going to tapp t stat housing for the bypass tonight. Should set the head tomorrow I hope.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-24-2019, 10:25 PM   #31
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Behive springs installed and head painted. Also drilled and tapped the t stat elbow but I didnt like how it turned out. Im going to make up a splice on my top radiator hose tomorrow to tie the water bypass into.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-26-2019, 09:21 PM   #32
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The head is back on and torqued to 130. The big fuel lines along with the duel feed kit is installed. That 90* fitting on the lift pump was hard to get on. Its a very tight fit!

Going to let the truck sit overnight, install the turbo,radiator, and injector lines in the am to get the truck running so I can do my hot retorque. Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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98 3500 QC 4X4 Flatbed HE351CW over Bullseye S475/87/1.25, L19 studs, PDD 5x14's, 4gsk, 025 DV's,ATS mani, build still in process
 
Old 01-26-2019, 09:27 PM   #33
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I noticed that the wheel on my 351 is a little chewed up. Does this look like it needs replaced or would you guys still run it? I have another stock wheel or I can order a billet wheel for it.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 01-27-2019, 07:28 AM   #34
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Turbo is fine.
Bearing play, mainly thrust is only thing important.
 
Old 01-27-2019, 07:49 AM   #35
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Old 01-27-2019, 04:36 PM   #36
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Only thing I'd mention is using longer bolts and spacers on your manifold to head. There's a reason the factory does it. Keep an eye on your gaskets for leaks there.
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Old 01-27-2019, 04:53 PM   #37
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Did you clearance the valve covers? I usually leave the washer off the rocker bolts and grind the top of the stud down some for clearance. That or machine the top of the rocker block down.
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Old 01-27-2019, 06:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
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Only thing I'd mention is using longer bolts and spacers on your manifold to head. There's a reason the factory does it. Keep an eye on your gaskets for leaks there.
Why is this?
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Old 01-27-2019, 08:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Only thing I'd mention is using longer bolts and spacers on your manifold to head. There's a reason the factory does it. Keep an eye on your gaskets for leaks there.
So use the stock spacers with new bolts? What is the reason for this?
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Last edited by jstaylor954; 01-27-2019 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Spelling
 
Old 01-28-2019, 10:06 AM   #40
Tate
 
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As the manifold and head heat up, they obviously grow in thickness. The bolt won't grow at the same rate, so you'll have a differential in expansion. This can plasticly deform the bolt if it is stretched too much given its length. This then ends up as a leak because the bolt is now permanently stretched and is loose, or its broken. Using a longer bolt with a spacer gives it a longer length to absorb the expansion, keeping the stretch in the elastic range.

I realize that people use short bolts and get away with it, but maintaining clamp load in a heat cycled application is easier with longer bolts.
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