Remote fuel filter question

J

johnstontruckin

New member
I just bought a 95 dodge for super cheap and was wanting to make it road worthy again. I know this topic has been beat in to the ground but I have searched and done a little research and still have a couple questions. When I bought this truck their was no fuel system at all. I got a new factory mechanical lift pump from cummins and want to use a Napa 4770 filter base with a Napa filter 3528. It should be a 2 micron filter which I would think would be what you would want to use on a daily driven truck. I plan on using 1/2 inch fuel line and the base has four ports so I should be able to plumb in a fuel pressure gauge. So I guess my question is will I be fine with just a single 2 micron filter? And do I need to mount this on the frame rail before the lift pump or between the IP and the lift pump? I want to have the best fuel pressure possible for any performance changes I make. I would have used all factory parts but their was nothing with the truck and I wasn't wanting to spend a ton of money on it considering I gave 800 dollars for the truck. If you guys have any suggestions on a better way of doing it please let me know. sorry for the long post. lol
 
1/2" line is overkill for a stock lift pump. If you want to have a fuel pressure reading the gauge will have to be mounted between the lift pump and injection pump, but it will pulse hard if you just tee off a pressurized line. You can lessen the pulsing by using a needle valve or two. Fuel pressure isolators are crap, but are the only way to get a gauge in the cab without running fuel into the cab.

The filter can be mounted in that same area or before the lift pump. Whether it's pulling or pushing doesn't matter. Single filter is fine.
 
2 macron fuel filter is the way to go. If you don't have a water separator on the truck that would be a good thing to look into also. If you shop around there are some good places to get the kits. Little water in the fuel can damage a motor quick.
 
johnstontruckin said:
I just bought a 95 dodge for super cheap and was wanting to make it road worthy again. I know this topic has been beat in to the ground but I have searched and done a little research and still have a couple questions. When I bought this truck their was no fuel system at all. I got a new factory mechanical lift pump from cummins and want to use a Napa 4770 filter base with a Napa filter 3528. It should be a 2 micron filter which I would think would be what you would want to use on a daily driven truck. I plan on using 1/2 inch fuel line and the base has four ports so I should be able to plumb in a fuel pressure gauge. So I guess my question is will I be fine with just a single 2 micron filter? And do I need to mount this on the frame rail before the lift pump or between the IP and the lift pump? I want to have the best fuel pressure possible for any performance changes I make. I would have used all factory parts but their was nothing with the truck and I wasn't wanting to spend a ton of money on it considering I gave 800 dollars for the truck. If you guys have any suggestions on a better way of doing it please let me know. sorry for the long post. lol
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I can't remember off the top of my head what filter I have, but its the large screw on filter off a CAT I think and its a F/W separator and like 5 micron which I think is good enough. I'm running a single filter between the lift pump and IP.

Nor'Easter said:
1/2" line is overkill for a stock lift pump. If you want to have a fuel pressure reading the gauge will have to be mounted between the lift pump and injection pump, but it will pulse hard if you just tee off a pressurized line. You can lessen the pulsing by using a needle valve or two. Fuel pressure isolators are crap, but are the only way to get a gauge in the cab without running fuel into the cab.

The filter can be mounted in that same area or before the lift pump. Whether it's pulling or pushing doesn't matter. Single filter is fine.
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I'm running 5/8" line with a stock cummins lift pump. More line size = less pressure drop. Also means the fuel is moving slower and less likey to cavitate at high rpms. I have a mechanical gauge on a y-block right before the IP and it pulses just a little, not bad. I don't have any type of snubber or needle valve.

I also run the isspro isolator and it works well and keeps diesel out of the cab. Wasn't hard to setup at all once you understand how they work. Set one up on my dads truck as well and it works good too.
 
Also with living in OH you will want a water separator frozen lines are a bear. Have my filters mounted right under the manifold intake horn looks nice and easy to get to.
 
Well I think I might go with the Napa base 4770 and take your guys idea and run a fuel/ water separator that is a 5 micron filter also. I will try to mount it off of the intake plenum with a piece of angle iron in between the lift pump and injection pump. I would think the Donaldson filter with the 1 x 14 threads should work on that base. Hopefully I have enough room down in there to mount this thing, I would just mount it on the frame but I heard it wears the pumps bad to try and suck fuel as apposed to push it through the filter.
 
What's the price on those bases? I decided to use Donaldson filter bases(part# P562262) that I got for $17 a piece. The filter number for those are P551313(2 micron filter) and P558000(20 micron water sep).
 
Headcase98002 said:
What's the price on those bases? I decided to use Donaldson filter bases(part# P562262) that I got for $17 a piece. The filter number for those are P551313(2 micron filter) and P558000(20 micron water sep).
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The base I'm looking at is 21$ plus shipping and then I had planned on running a single filter that did both. (Filter plus f/w separator). I will look up those part numbers when I'm off work, can't ever have to much filtration Id reckon. Think that two bases will fit off the side of the intake? That's all I'm worried about.
 
Talk to the guys at Glacier Diesel Products they are great guys to work with and will have a setup for ya for a good price!! Got mine from them and had ordered the wrong mout and they made it right post hast. should get pics I guess.LOL
 
youre gonna clog 2micron filters real fast. youll want the intake strainer, the factor strainer (delete heater, they fail as a rule) and IMO an upstream 10-30 micron as well. the coarse filter will double the 2m filters life. i run 7micron donaldsons or 10micron cimteks.

theres nothing wrong with 1/2" line. ive been using goodyear wingfoot 1/2" airhose for 4 yrs with diesel and wvo. read the msds, the same composition as fuel rated hose. air hose is full of compressor oil and a good one like goodyear or parker will do fine with diesel.
 
After thinking about it a bit. If you don't have a fuel system in the truck to begin with it should be easy and a good thing to drop the tank get a new draw straw in it so you can plumb it with new all the way insuring there is nothing wrong from the gitgo!! Then no matter if you go with a fuel pump set up or something stock you will have the piece of mind that it should be flowing. If your not building for power 3/8 line will work, if your going for power go 1/2 in. If I'm reading right your just wanting this as a DD. IF your going for power build to your power level or you will be doing things twice= more money.
 
BGbleu said:
After thinking about it a bit. If you don't have a fuel system in the truck to begin with it should be easy and a good thing to drop the tank get a new draw straw in it so you can plumb it with new all the way insuring there is nothing wrong from the gitgo!! Then no matter if you go with a fuel pump set up or something stock you will have the piece of mind that it should be flowing. If your not building for power 3/8 line will work, if your going for power go 1/2 in. If I'm reading right your just wanting this as a DD. IF your going for power build to your power level or you will be doing things twice= more money.
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I completely agree with you. When I purchased this truck there was no transmission with it and the transfer case and fuel tank were in the bed! After looking at the fuel tank i realized that there was no sending unit. So I found a tank and sending unit from a buddy and I'm going to buy a Vulcan draw straw and go that route considering the fuel fittings were broke off the canister. It's going to be a daily driver but I had firepunk build me a transmission that should hold 550+ so I would like to make all the power I can by doing free/ cheap mods.
 
If your looking at 550 you should go ahead and get at least a 100 gph fuel pump. Good manifold intake and programmer and you will be on your way to where you want to be for a reasonable price.
 
BGbleu said:
If your looking at 550 you should go ahead and get at least a 100 gph fuel pump. Good manifold intake and programmer and you will be on your way to where you want to be for a reasonable price.
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It's a 12v lol and I have read that the factory mechanical pump can support 500- 550. If I only make 450 I would still be tickled pink.
 
Oh i was thinking it was a 24v. Still you can do alot with it. Sounds like your on your way now, 450 is still a good DD and toy for weekends.
 
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