Pro Street 1st Gen Build Thread

[madmikeismad]

That is going to be one sexy beech.

[devon lock]

Truck looks great!!!

As for the tires, I don't do burnouts, it was my front tires wearing out and probably more from the track than on the street. As for cruising around on evenings and weekends they are fine, but any regular street use I would recommend a spare set of tires.

[jlibert]

this looks like a great build.

[WUnderwood]

Goes without saying, but awesome work so far!

[Cummins12Club]

Thanks guys!

[Cummins12Club]

1stgensleeper, when I first started looking at DOT slicks, the guy at M&H told me that from the feed back he got form customers the longest a set ever lasted on the street was 2500 miles and I'm sure this was in a much lighter car. I would assume these mickeys are the same.

[Cummins12Club]

Tonight I went through and pulled out absolutely every unecessary item from the frame and underbody. I ended up with a pile like this. I know it doesn't look like much but all this weighed exactly 29lbs. I am trying to eliminate all parts not needed to save as many pounds as I can, the goal is to get it down to 5000lbs empty race weight and 52-5250 with me in it. I'm going to go ahead and finish cleaning up the inside of the frame from the firewall forward so I can set the mock up engine in. With this body and frame being from a half ton gas truck I want to make sure there are no surprises come actual reassembly. This will also allow me to check suspension and oil pan clearances along with exhaust manifold and intake plenum mock ups. I'd like to take the time to per fit and build everything now so we aren't trying to fabricate or adjust things around fresh paint.


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[SmokingOreo]

Great looking truck! Should be even nicer when done

[Cummins12Club]

Originally Posted by SmokingOreo

Great looking truck! Should be even nicer when done

Thank you, that's the goal.

[dvst8r]

Originally Posted by Cummins12Club

Tonight I went through and pulled out absolutely every unnecessary item from the frame and underbody...

This is the way to get light, start at the front and work your way back. Anything unneeded goes, anything needed find a way to shave some weight. Doesn't take long for even ounces to add up. We were shooting for 700lbs weight loss and were wondering if how we would ever get there and ended up closer to 1100lbs, and probably could find more.

[Cummins12Club]

Originally Posted by dvst8r

This is the way to get light, start at the front and work your way back. Anything unneeded goes, anything needed find a way to shave some weight. Doesn't take long for even ounces to add up. We were shooting for 700lbs weight loss and were wondering if how we would ever get there and ended up closer to 1100lbs, and probably could find more.

I'm shooting for around 800lb loss atleas, i think it's a feasible number. I was told gutting an 8 foot bed alone saves 200lbs. I believe it, when I scrapped my old bed it weighed 450lbs and by gutting the bed to pretty much just bed sides and wheel houses that would have to be close to half the weight lost right there.

[5.9 Cummins Fan]

Get a good hole saw set and cut out where it is feasible, good way to loose a ton of weight.

[scat]

Ditch all the leaf springs and go 4 link... Shaved almost 300lbs from mine...

[Cummins12Club]

Originally Posted by scat

Ditch all the leaf springs and go 4 link... Shaved almost 300lbs from mine...

Planning on back halving and going ladder bar in the rear, undecided on 4 link or ladder bar for the front yet.

[Cummins12Club]

I've been pretty busy and haven't been able to make much time for progess but I did trade my big heavy np205 transfer case off for this 241 out of a 1st gen I got lucky and found this out of an 89-93 so I don't have to mess with flipping it and the oil pick up. I didn't get to weigh my 205 but I know it was a solid 150lbs, I've been told I saved about 75lbs by going to this 241.


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[Cnp22]

Nice! Been thinking about going back to a first gen but already to far along on the 95.

[Cummins12Club]

I can see why everyone builds 2nd gens, the frames are stronger and your already basically 4 linked up front.

[Cummins12Club]

Spent a little time on the truck tonight and got the mock up engine in. the gasser engine crossmember adapted right too the Diesel engine mounts, with a little finessing I've got the engine pretty dang close to how it will set in the bay with the transmission bolted up. I've got the back of the block resting on a jack stand to duplicate the exact height with transmission bolted up. Before Tim was worried about the front bars locations interfering with the turbo/turbo placement but once we got the engine in place there appears to be plenty of room for just about any turbo or turbos configuration. After I convinced myself the engine was as close to exact placement as possible I slapped the valve covers on and latched the hood to start checking clearances. This may seem a little anal but with this being a gas frame/ body I wanted to ensure there were no differences or issues with clearance. I was surprised at how much clearance I have from the top of the valve cover to the underside of the hood. I don't forsee I'll run into any height issues with the intake plenum or turbo/manifold as long as I stay a few inches or lower above the valve covers. My turbo is supost to ship out Friday so hopefully next week I can start mocking up where I want it before it goes on Tim's truck for TS.


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[oldestof11]

Not to throw a wrench in this.

You're this far torn apart. At this point it might be easy and very beneficial to set the engine back. You'll need to build a dog house and it'd be a b!+ch to do anything with the engine while it sets in the truck. However, it'll help with weight distribution.


Sent via USPS 2 weeks ago

[Bodacious]

Cummins12Club, I love it. Keep at it. My son and I frothed over your truck in the diesel power mag for days.

Just my, but while you are at this stage in the build and with the very loose rules to presently govern pro street class, back 'dat big hunk of ballast to at least the #1 injector at the center line of the front axle.

Get you a nice 9" grinder and go to work on the frame. Get yourself in a good rhythm and grind that wall thickness of the frame down to about 1/2 of what it is now. Finish off with a flapper wheel for a nice finish.

Go ahead and run those rear down bars out the back window and down to your new 2x3x.085 narrowed frame rails. Oh yea, you have switched to a short bed by now. lol You will also need to run an additional x brace along with those down bars.

Then, 3-link that front end with set of coil overs. I also forgot to mention, by this time you have dropped so much weight you can switch to a dana 44 out of a scout with the rac'n in the dirt aluminum hubs and brakes and a 9" is all you'll need out back. If ya want to go that extra mile, you can sling that 44 up in a big lathe and cut a little wall thickness out of the tubes as well as grinding the crap out of the exterior of the carrier and the knuckles. You can also, by now, run a nice light set of front runners or similar 'cause the front wont be doing much when it's 1.5' in the air.

Then, pull that 241 apart and have the boys at FTI build you a through shaft for high range 4x4 only and drop a little over 20lbs off 'er plus a ton of parasitic loss from the planetarys. You have lock in hubs already so you can unlock one of them for pit driving.

Remember to allow enough clearance for a nice set of scoops 'cause you'll be wanting to run some dirt/sand drags with 'er as well.

By this time, you are down around 3500lbs and will have the ability to add the 1000lbs of ballast where you need it.

HEY, WAKEUP!!!!!!!!!

Yaaawwwwn, oh... so sorry. I was just dreaming about the best pro-street 1st gen I've ever seen.

,

I've had way to much