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Old 06-13-2018, 10:04 PM   #21
thatguy69
 
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Clean snap, your converter got lucky

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Old 06-14-2018, 08:18 AM   #22
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Spun the hub out of the input u got lucky
 
Old 06-17-2018, 06:08 AM   #23
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Question on a torque converter.

Iím going to go with a Firepunked rebuild kit and converter. Just curious to know what make a converter go bad or need replacing?

The torque converter in my truck is the original with 250,000 plus miles on it. Iím going to rebuild this trans semi tough with Firepunked triple disc converter. Thinking of the future, with more power if I have a trains failure will I need to replace the converter as well? Is it similar to a clutch? Every time Iíve pulled a standard trans Iíve replaced the clutch, just because it makes sense.

That is kind of all over the place, in the end, when do you replace a converter?


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Old 07-24-2018, 06:41 AM   #24
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So i finally got everything to get my truck back together. Trans has been rebuilt with a new billet shaft and a Firepunk Master Rebuild Kit, with the billet servos, 5 forward clutches and a transgo shift kit in the valve body. I also got a DPC billet triple disc converter. Very excited to get it back together and see how it drives.

I have a couple of questions. First, my trans rebuilder said that with the shift kit the trans will circulate fluid in park. I cant see why this is a bad thing. I feel like this is a great option. He also told me with the bigger converter it should hold about 14 quarts of fluid (factory pan). How much fluid should I put in the pan before starting the truck? All 14 quarts or some then add as needed?

Second, how many quarts does the transfercase hold? Somehow all the fluid out of it seemed to leak out on my shop floor.... What a mess!
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:56 AM   #25
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Good deal on the rebuild! Sounds like a solid book of parts there. Stock stall converter?

I never add all the trans fluid at once, especially with a stock pan and no drain plug. Add 8 quarts and start it up. But have funnel and open quart bottles ready to add more as the fluid circulates. Fill until the level just touches the bottom of the hash marking on the dipstick. Shift through the gears in place, check fluid, test drive and take fluid with you. Always do a final fluid check when trans is at operating temperature. Even then, donít fill it entirely. I like to have my fluid level half way in the hash markings.

The transfer case should have a drain and fill port. Add ATF+4 until fluid just starts to flow out of the fill port.
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:52 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
Good deal on the rebuild! Sounds like a solid book of parts there. Stock stall converter?

I never add all the trans fluid at once, especially with a stock pan and no drain plug. Add 8 quarts and start it up. But have funnel and open quart bottles ready to add more as the fluid circulates. Fill until the level just touches the bottom of the hash marking on the dipstick. Shift through the gears in place, check fluid, test drive and take fluid with you. Always do a final fluid check when trans is at operating temperature. Even then, don’t fill it entirely. I like to have my fluid level half way in the hash markings.

The transfer case should have a drain and fill port. Add ATF+4 until fluid just starts to flow out of the fill port.
I'm excited to see how it drives. I thought I'd build it a little more than stock should the day come I feel the need for more HP. Hoping this would hold 6-800 hp pulling a horse trailer or goose neck camper.

Correct, stock stall on the converter. Stockish motor right now didn't see the need for a lower stall. Although I am not to educated on stall speeds and operation/ driveability.

Thanks for the fluid input. What do the torque converter bolts need to be torqued to? Do you put any lube on the input shaft before installing the TC? Maybe just a little WD-40?
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Last edited by RockinRam96; 07-24-2018 at 11:54 AM.
 
Old 07-24-2018, 01:16 PM   #27
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I initially started out with a lower stall converter and went back to a stock stall on my 05. Much better drivability for daily use.

I didnít lube the input shaft upon installing the converter. I did lube the converter snout OD with Transgel before installation in hopes not to damage the pump seal.

Donít recall the torque on the converter bolts. Probably all you can pull with a 3/8Ē ratchet. Can look in my shop manual for you later once Iím home.
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:12 PM   #28
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Stripped the splines in the hub. that's actually the failure you would want on the input shaft if you had to choose one...
Input fail - YouTube added a link so you can see real time whats going on....sad but I have a few just like that one lol
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Last edited by T-MAN; 07-24-2018 at 07:22 PM.
 
Old 07-25-2018, 05:25 AM   #29
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Got it all together last night. Was much easier than expected. Much easier than a manual transmission!

Drove it less than a mile, just barely got into OD. I need more fluid before I drive it much more, I put 14 quarts in it and itís still quite thirsty!

Topping off the fluid tonight and checking the flex plate bolts and itíll be ready to go!


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Old 07-25-2018, 05:29 AM   #30
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Stripped the splines in the hub. that's actually the failure you would want on the input shaft if you had to choose one...
Input fail - YouTube added a link so you can see real time whats going on....sad but I have a few just like that one lol

Interested to know how this happened. I am by no means abusive to this truck. And itís not like it has Hobbs of power, just an antiquated Edge tuner. Iíve only ever done one small burnout. But who knows what was done to it previously.

Did find out this trans has been rebuilt in the past, in 2013. But oh well I think itís built pretty stout for what iíl use it for. So there should be no worries for a while! 🤞



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Old 07-25-2018, 05:39 AM   #31
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Interested to know how this happened. I am by no means abusive to this truck. And itís not like it has Hobbs of power, just an antiquated Edge tuner. Iíve only ever done one small burnout. But who knows what was done to it previously.

Did find out this trans has been rebuilt in the past, in 2013. But oh well I think itís built pretty stout for what iíl use it for. So there should be no worries for a while! 🤞



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After posting that I realized I was a little late to the party.. Phone didn't show me page 2 of the thread.. The first trans I did that on was my 03ho with the new at the time tst box on my 3rd gear shift going up a hill. My right foot caused mine. Yours let go on an easy shift but what about a few days, a week or month before ? could have been shocked and waiting to let go. Im assuming this is a common rail. Tons of torque down low. Good luck with the new trans..
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:09 AM   #32
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Quote:
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After posting that I realized I was a little late to the party.. Phone didn't show me page 2 of the thread.. The first trans I did that on was my 03ho with the new at the time tst box on my 3rd gear shift going up a hill. My right foot caused mine. Yours let go on an easy shift but what about a few days, a week or month before ? could have been shocked and waiting to let go. Im assuming this is a common rail. Tons of torque down low. Good luck with the new trans..
After it let go I realized it has been this way for a long time. Probably stripped a couple of teeth and finally just let go. About a year ago I noticed it shudder when shifting into OD. I originally thought it was clutches slipping. After discovering this, I'm confident it was the input shaft.

Yes it is a common rail. I love the truck. I've had a 12 valve and a VP 24 valve, the common rail is leaps and bounds above the other dinosaurs. Dove it last night for the first time in over 2 months and fell in love all over again!
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Last edited by RockinRam96; 07-25-2018 at 07:14 AM.
 
Old 07-25-2018, 07:43 AM   #33
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On the input shaft you don't get a second chance, once the splines strip its done....They are pretty fine splines its not like a chain on a transfercase. I would bet the shudder was the converter, If you look at the flexplate side of a slipping converter the paint usually turns brown from the heat.
Also on the new trans I didn't see what pan you have but a new converter with dd pan mine takes about 19 qts. not sure if you were told how to bring a trans to life.. I was taught rear on jack stands, truck in neutral, pan capacity plus about 6 qts for empty converter . Have a couple quarts open and ready... Start the truck and add fluid, you will see back tires start to turn when its coming to life. Then check fluid on the stick (check both sides of the stick they don't always read the same) add as necessary. then run through the gears and reverse a few times without killing it, check fluid again... if all good road test and check fluid when you get back from the road trip.....
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:53 AM   #34
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I added about 8 quarts, started the truck and let it run in park (I know it does circulate fluid in park, but I was told with the shift kit it would), checked the fluid and added 2 more quarts while it was running. Then I shifted it into Reverse, Neutral, Drive and back to Neutral, In every gear I could feel the truck move, so I knew the trans was working as it should. I shut it off and checked the fluid, wasn't even on the stick so I added 4 more quarts. Started the truck, ran through the gears and checked again. Was at the "ADD" mark. I was out of fluid so I took it around the block (maybe a mile), just barley got into OD, 45 MPH max. Got parked in the shop and no fluid on the stick.

I have a factory pan.
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Old 07-25-2018, 08:02 AM   #35
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Gotcha, drive only applies forward clutches while not moving and reverse only rear servo...a lot of places for fluid to go after it cycles through the gears and locks up. im sure you will be fine. I always check in neutral while running, just make sure you check both sides of the stick. also trans fluid will read high on the stick while not running....
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Old 07-25-2018, 09:54 AM   #36
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Gotcha, drive only applies forward clutches while not moving and reverse only rear servo...a lot of places for fluid to go after it cycles through the gears and locks up. im sure you will be fine. I always check in neutral while running, just make sure you check both sides of the stick. also trans fluid will read high on the stick while not running....
I understand all of that. This isn't my first time changing the fluid...
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:00 AM   #37
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Your shift kit does allow for fluid to circulate while in Park. I still check fluid level with trans in Neutral.

Sounds like all is good with the rebuild. You will like the converter. Especially with a lock up switch.
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:09 AM   #38
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Your shift kit does allow for fluid to circulate while in Park. I still check fluid level with trans in Neutral.

Sounds like all is good with the rebuild. You will like the converter. Especially with a lock up switch.
Once I shifted from park to reverse to neutral it seemed to take A LOT of fluid. I started checking in neutral after that.

Lock up switch is the next item on the list. Just need to find out witch wire out of the PCM I need.... Assuming it works the same way my 96 did.
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:28 AM   #39
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Click the image to open in full size.

I just had to hook mine back up and forgot the wiring procedure. Getting old is heck.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:30 AM   #40
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I just had to hook mine back up and forgot the wiring procedure. Getting old is heck.
Thank you sir! I'm guessing this wire comes from the round plug on the transmission itself. I remember when I tapped the wire on my 96 I did it on the PCM on the firewall. Glad I asked.

Has anyone tried using a thumb switch on the steering wheel? A toggle switch works, I'd just like not to have to reach for it when I want to use it.
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