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Old 12-13-2018, 03:21 PM   #21
Hoiyay

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
Youíre letting the old timers ruffle your feathers. Keep your cool and donít gloat so much. Youíll fit in just fine.

Solid questions with good answers.
Is this a stock rebuild or performance build?
This build is a durability build. Goal is for a million miles work horse. No performance mods what so ever. Pure reliability.

I tow about a 8-10k trailer daily almost during season. So, can't afford down time due to truck.

Mahle/clevite parts only with Cummins parts when I can afford or thought was imperative (oil pump, head gasket, etc).

Had the valve seats staked during head job. I'll be opening the ring gaps to the widest spec they allow. I've heard rings breaking are very common due to the tolerances being too tight.

I'm installing a 12v oil priming system. Can get oil pressure before starting truck/after oil change. Stole idea from another builder.

Deleting the trans fluid cooler (one on the block on driver side). Also installing the thermostat delete kit.

New set of new Bosch injectors.

Some gauges...EGT gauges, rail, trans, and oil pressure.

Had the crank balanced, will be balancing piston assembly myself.

Stainless steel core plugs, and installing threaded plugs in the head. Also will be installing threaded plugs in the oil galleys, gotta find what size they are.

Have a fleece coolant bypass for the rear main freeze plug to prevent any issues. Im not going to bypass the coolant though. Going to plug the hole on the bypass. From my understanding it only blows out due to high revs found in performance builds. Mine will rarely see over 3000 rpms so not an issue.

Will be installing fuel filters as well. I'd like to have the stock filter (5 micron I think), and then 2, 1 micron filters. I still have to find/buy those.

And some other things, ball joints, brake kits, etc.

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Old 12-13-2018, 03:48 PM   #22
95cummins5.9
 
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Why delete the trans cooler and stat?
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puzzy, tune it.

I don't own anything stock, from engines to boobies I've modded them all. Life is too short to live with mediocre chit.
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Old 12-13-2018, 03:57 PM   #23
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If you don't plan to use the bypass there are less expensive options than the Fleece kit.
Engineered diesel has the rear freeze plug replacement for $50.
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Last edited by gmc500; 12-13-2018 at 03:59 PM.
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:05 PM   #24
Hoiyay

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Originally Posted by gmc500 View Post
If you don't plan to use the bypass there are less expensive options than the Fleece kit. Engineered diesel has the rear block off plate for $50.
Maybe I don't have the fleece kit. I remember it cost about $50. So, a wash either way.


The trans cooler (heat exchanger) delete is because the cooler has been known to fail, allowing coolant in the transmission. Soon as that happens it's an automatic rebuild.

In reality, that cooler is really a heat exchanger...it helps the transfluid get up to temp quicker. I'm sure it helps cool a little during summer as well, but not needed.

I'll just run the regular radiator trans cooler and delete the tstat. Deleting tstat because that actually slows down the volume fluid being cooled. Also, has been known to fail shut...another tranny killer.


None of these are personal experience, just the research I've done over the last 3 months or so

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Old 12-13-2018, 06:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoiyay View Post
Maybe I don't have the fleece kit. I remember it cost about $50. So, a wash either way.


The trans cooler (heat exchanger) delete is because the cooler has been known to fail, allowing coolant in the transmission. Soon as that happens it's an automatic rebuild.

In reality, that cooler is really a heat exchanger...it helps the transfluid get up to temp quicker. I'm sure it helps cool a little during summer as well, but not needed.

I'll just run the regular radiator trans cooler and delete the tstat. Deleting tstat because that actually slows down the volume fluid being cooled. Also, has been known to fail shut...another tranny killer.


None of these are personal experience, just the research I've done over the last 3 months or so

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I live in Southern California, with a hot Street truck and tow with it. I run the factory front cooler and one Aux cooler with no heat exchanger. Never had issues. My recommendation is to be gentle on the trans until the fluid warms up as a precaution for removing the heat exhanger
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:10 AM   #26
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I'm in the marine biz in N Florida, where's your shop located?

Also agree on getting rid of the trans heat exchanger, a local diesel shop to me has replaced alot of trans on the 3rd gens from them failing. Also the replacements are very expensive, and have seen them fail again in short order. He has retrofitted the early 12valve style exchangers on 3rd gens that tow heavy, and has worked perfect.
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Old 12-14-2018, 09:52 AM   #27
Hoiyay

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Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
I'm in the marine biz in N Florida, where's your shop located?

Also agree on getting rid of the trans heat exchanger, a local diesel shop to me has replaced alot of trans on the 3rd gens from them failing. Also the replacements are very expensive, and have seen them fail again in short order. He has retrofitted the early 12valve style exchangers on 3rd gens that tow heavy, and has worked perfect.
I'm mobile jason.

I thought about keeping it and just buying a replacement every other year or so, but they are just stupidly overpriced...$400 or so. I thought certainly they had cheaper ones aftermarket. Found several on Amazon for $50-75 but the reviews were worse than aweful. Some even claiming it failed in under a month and blew their tranny.

Just not worth the risk.

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Old 12-14-2018, 11:55 PM   #28
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I'm also in the marine engine industry. Where are you based out of?

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Old 12-15-2018, 08:57 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoiyay View Post
Maybe I don't have the fleece kit. I remember it cost about $50. So, a wash either way.

In reality, that cooler is really a heat exchanger...it helps the transfluid get up to temp quicker. I'm sure it helps cool a little during summer as well, but not needed.

I'll just run the regular radiator trans cooler and delete the tstat. Deleting tstat because that actually slows down the volume fluid being cooled. Also, has been known to fail shut...another tranny killer.


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living in Houston, getting rig of the "trans warmer" as i call it is a first on all of my dodges. I can get into the truck in the summer and the trans is already over 100*, then the coolant warms it right up to over 160-180 with a tight converter in houston traffic... no thanks.

heat is the main cause for failure in most auto trannys so why promote that.

get rid of the exchanger and flipping the thermostat is the best thing anyone down south can do. i know up north you need to keep the heat, but down here you need to expel it...
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