Priming oil pump

N

Nbdiesel

New member
Ok, so put together an engine and have it sitting on a stand. Wanted to get oil pressure before I put it in the truck. Been trying today but nothing. I didn't put Vaseline in the pump like many have said. I been turning it over with the starter and I'm getting nothing. I tried to pressurize the nipple above the oil filter, like some have said and still nothing. I don't want to take the front cover off and ruin the seal, but unless anyone has any other ideas, I think I may have to and put Vaseline in the pump. I really don't want to put it in the truck and hope at fireup it gets pressure. Any thoughts?
 
Priming pump Hamilton Cams

From their website:

How should I break in my new camshaft

The first 5 minutes of operation of your new camshaft is very important. Ninety percent of all issues arise in this period and have to do with inadequate lubrication.

To make sure that you have no issues during break-in, follow these few suggestions.

– Make sure that the cam has a Liberal amount of quality assembly lube applied

-DO NOT let the engine start without oil pressure

– When this is a new engine, be sure to put a liberal amount of assembly lube in the oil pump and prime the oil filter

– Be sure to change the oil after you have done your break-in procedure. When the filter and oil system are already primed, engine will get oil pressure much faster than if the oil is changed at the same time.

-Disconnect the fuel system and spin the engine with the starter until oil pressure can be read or until oil is coming out of the rocker arms.

-Do not let the starter run for more than 10 seconds at a time

– Once oil pressure has been verified, let the engine start and run for five minutes at 1200-1500rpm then shut engine down

-Adjust valves then you are cleared to abuse your engine. Enjoy the added airflow

-if you need to re-torque or “hot-torque “the head, do so before adjusting valves. Re-torqueing the head changes the valve lash setting, so it is important to set lash last.

2-3 times a year I get calls from customers that have lash starting to get loose on the last 3 cylinders. This is caused from poor lubrication at the time of initial start-up. In this case the cam literally eats its way through the block away from the force of the tappets. Assembly lube and oil pressure on start-up are a pretty big deal to your cam. Don’t let this happen to you.
 
I've had one where I had to fire it up to create oil pressure. Not sure if the engine builder didn't lube the pump or what the deal was with that one.
 
I used royal purple assembly lube on all part, and put the zinc in the oil. I have a brand new cummins oil pump in. I guess I could use the old oil pump and make a shaft to turn it. Just don't want to take the front cover off and mess up the seal. But I guess that's better than putting engine in and having to taken it back out. I might try to put double the oil in tomorrow to make it easier to pull. If that doesn't work then cover off. Sucks. Cummins manual says to do it this way and it didn't work.
 
If you had everything completely apart make sure you have a spring in your oil pressure relief valve. I had forgotten the spring on my rebuild and had 0psi cranking and about 10psi idling. Only ran it 10-15 seconds like that. Replaced oil pressure relief valve spring and issue went away. 50+ passes on this engine now with no issues, so my low pressure startup did not do any harm.
 
Nbdiesel said:
I used royal purple assembly lube on all part, and put the zinc in the oil. I have a brand new cummins oil pump in. I guess I could use the old oil pump and make a shaft to turn it. Just don't want to take the front cover off and mess up the seal. But I guess that's better than putting engine in and having to taken it back out. I might try to put double the oil in tomorrow to make it easier to pull. If that doesn't work then cover off. Sucks. Cummins manual says to do it this way and it didn't work.
Click to expand...

You should be able to reuse the seal
 
Yes I filled the oil filter. I did take the oil filter housing apart and put new seals, but I never took anything out. Didn't even notice a pressure relief valve in there. I think I am going to try and pressurize a canister of oil and try to force it through the turbo oil line fill nipple. If that doesn't work, front cover off and try to make a primer with old oil pump. I worry the amount of cranking I'm doing with no oil pressure may be worse than just starting it. Crossing my fingers!
 
dmigz57 said:
What a rip off. Can buy a new OEM pump for $130ish, modify the original and have the same thing.

OP, just cranking the engine isn’t going to turn fast enough to build much pressure. Pulling the cover and spinning the pump is best for piece of mind.
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This is what I did. Pressed out the extra gear on the original oil pump, built an attachment for my drill out of a piece of aluminum and a couple bolts to grab onto the oil pump gear, and spun it around until I could see oil coming out of where it was supposed to come out of.

Of course, that was hours (or days) before actually firing the engine, so does it actually reduce wear? I guess it's supposed to, right, at least get everything filled with oil that's usually filled with oil? And all that oil you prime isn't just going to flow back down when you remove the priming pump and replace it with the new pump?


I mostly wanted to make sure I wasn't missing some stupid oil rifle plug somewhere (and lo and behold I was).
 
Nbdiesel said:
Yes I filled the oil filter. I did take the oil filter housing apart and put new seals, but I never took anything out. Didn't even notice a pressure relief valve in there. I think I am going to try and pressurize a canister of oil and try to force it through the turbo oil line fill nipple. If that doesn't work, front cover off and try to make a primer with old oil pump. I worry the amount of cranking I'm doing with no oil pressure may be worse than just starting it. Crossing my fingers!
Click to expand...

I'd verify the spring and pressure valve are installed correctly. They will not make any oil pressure if not, or very little.
 
I didn't read if it was suggested, but take the regulator out and dump some oil down in there.... should help it build
 
Ok, so I tired to pump the engine with oil with a walbro fuel pump I had. It pumped 2gal in and it was coming out of the rockers, but still no prime with starter. So took front cover off and modified the old pump. Finaly got pressure. So I know I can get pressure, put new pump on and lubed it up and tried to prime with starter. Nothing again. I guess not fast enough. I had 75psi when I had it on the drill. Also my old pump looks different than the new. But checked part numbers and its a cummins pump that I bought from pure diesel.
 

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Nbdiesel said:
Ok, so I tired to pump the engine with oil with a walbro fuel pump I had. It pumped 2gal in and it was coming out of the rockers, but still no prime with starter. So took front cover off and modified the old pump. Finaly got pressure. So I know I can get pressure, put new pump on and lubed it up and tried to prime with starter. Nothing again. I guess not fast enough. I had 75psi when I had it on the drill. Also my old pump looks different than the new. But checked part numbers and its a cummins pump that I bought from pure diesel.
Click to expand...
Am I seeing things or is the plane on the back side of the gerotor not machined flat?

Sent from my motorola one vision using Tapatalk
 
I hope its flat. Its a brand new cummins pump. I think its just a shadow, but now you make me worry thats the problem I was having.
 
Just and update. Got the engine started. Got oil pressure in about 10 seconds. Guess the starter can't get it up. Glad I primed with the pump. Everything started and ran 5 min break in for cam great. A little loud at 1500rpm on the top end. Hope its just needs another valve adjustment.
 
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