Playing around with a 90 or 91 we turned up the fuel screw last night and it seems a little better although it did not seem to have the runaway condition even with the screw all the way in?????? Anyway I found a list of pump mods to do tonight!!!!!!!!! Is the GSK the same as the P-pump trucks? Also where can I find one for this truck? Also looking for a fuel pin any reccomended vendors? We are just gonna play with this truck for a while then its headed into a Crew cab Chevy that my buddy is building. Thanks for the help guys.
GSK for 1st gen.
- Thread starter JustinD
- Start date
Begle1
Active member
The VE uses a single spring; look for a "3200 RPM governor spring" or a "366" spring. Lots of places sell them for $20.
The fuel screws stock have an anti-tamper collar on them; to get more than a couple turns you have to take the screw out of the pump, pry the collar off and more than likely clean the threads.
The fuel screws stock have an anti-tamper collar on them; to get more than a couple turns you have to take the screw out of the pump, pry the collar off and more than likely clean the threads.
daithi2
Nevermore
since its not an oem part i had to order it from local bosch supplier.
peobryant
1st Genner
For the fuel cone I recommend a DennyT cone. You can order one form Denny T Performance | First Gen Dodges
Should we take the "power adjustment" screw out and clean the threads? It says to turn it in until it is close to runaway and then out 1/2 a turn. This one never had the runaway, but the screw still has thread showing just feels like its bottomed out or maybe there is some junk on the threads?? Is this normal?
Ramrod90
New member
Yes it is normal. The pumps came stock with a little collar that was tack welded on which messes up the threads. I'd pull it and clean the threads up. Unfortunately, not all pumps react the same to fuel screw adjustments and from what I have heard there are different lengths of fuel screws.
peobryant
1st Genner
Some trucks just won't run away with the stock fuel screw. You can either weld a little bit more on the end of the fuel screw, or go to a Bosch dealer, and they have a fuel screw with more threads on it, allowing more fuel.
WOT1stGen
'93 CTD
you can buy a fuel cone or if youre good with a grinder you can just take the stock one out and grind it down... just for good measure if you do grind you might want to run over it with some 180 grit just to make sure its smooth then mark the deep side on the diaphram and put it in... just remember the goal is to let the action pin travel as far out as possible so make sure the deepest part of the cone is facing the front of the truck/ the action pin...hope this is helpful
fatty
VE
True but you cant grind the stock pin as deep as an aftermarket pin.
WOT1stGen
'93 CTD
very good point...and i also have a question... do you have to grind the arm on the afc to get full travel along the aftermarket pin? because i read something about the arm hitting the inside of the housing
We did the mods........fun beater truck he is going to swap the motor into an old style Chevy. For now its just fun
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43NHuInYrs8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43NHuInYrs8