Good times in BFE last night..

[zachu812]

Originally Posted by bateman

Thanks Gary. That’s the plan with drilling the holes and what not.

These are the mounts I’m using https://bodyshopprice.com/1994-2001-...old-as-a-pair/

Man I didn't know anybody made new mounts for these things, I was dead set on a cab swap but those might be easier.

[bateman]

Well heck yea. I’m sure glad I don’t have to swap cabs. That would not be fun.

[kawi600]

my drivers cab mount is toast too. I didnt know about that fluid film stuff until years after that thing was rotted.

clamp it down and drill holes, get a copper backing pad and plug weld from the top. you can get clecos to hold the part in place but youll need to rig something to keep the weld from moving around while youre doing it.

the way they do it in the shops is to run a bead of 2k seam sealer, place the part and then spot weld it.

if you saved some of that old oil do an analysis for babbit material.. if its in there and you dont want to tear that thing down you could always try the short route and roll in bearings from under the motor. Better than stacking them up and trashing a rod too.

[biggy238]

Originally Posted by bateman

Marq92, man I’m glad you’ve noticed the same. I was feelin like a tard haha. I’m guessing all the soot in the oil gives it that look, idk.

Mark, that’s wild. These old engines got their reputation for a reason I guess. I’m going to try to not get too excited until I’ve got some miles on this thing.

About to head across the river to a friends shop to do some boat work. It’s a solid 50+ miles there and back. Not that it’s going to tell me much. I’m just ready to get a good drive in. Anyone know about that oil gauge question? Mine stays a fuzz below 40 to just above 40psi. Been that way for nearly 100,000 miles. Just always seemed low to me.

Those model years are dummy gauge. I'm not sure that ever changed until the electronic engines

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[biggy238]

To expand on my statement, they are real to the extent that they do react to pressure, but the hysteresis dulls them to the point that is simply an idiot light.

I'm going to give you my experience with my 96: When I bought mine, the sender was cracked and leaking oil, but it still displayed pressure.
I went nuts over the oil pressure. The dash never reacted to actual changes in pressure, even after the new Sender was installed, and things were done to raise oil pressure.
I overheated mine twice in the early days, once due to a leaking end tank, and again because I left the cap loose. The only engine damage was the head gasket started to leak from the front RH corner, which most know, they can do that anyway, with or without a thermal event.

I also had mine shut down hot after pulling a loaded S6400 IH out of a ditch. It did the same thing, wouldn't crank, had a miss after it cooled down enough to refire. The next day it fired and ran normally. That was 2007. In 2015 I had the head off. Cylinders still had cross hatch at 303000 miles.

I think there will be little to no fallout from what you went through.
Start doing oil analysis. You will learn more from that to ease your mind.

OH yeah, it wouldn't have helped you, but if you have containers, you can drain and refill the cooling system and shed quite a bit of heat just from the interaction between the coolant and the air.

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