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Old 09-06-2012, 05:31 PM   #21
ChuMaDD
 
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Looks good can't wait to see the finished product and that bumper is pretty dayum sweet looking
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Why in God's name would ANYBODY want to take something with that collection of gizmos, wheelies, belts, string, plastic and obvious fall-offs out of the sight of land?
 
Old 09-06-2012, 06:35 PM   #22
JBradley500
 
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id recommend pulling the head, having it checked and if needed surfaced. with 200k on it, it probably isnt flat and could use it. check the blocks deck surface too. with the head off youll have an easier time cleaning out the threads when you tap them. all IMO.
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92 W250- K&N Filter, Smoke Screw Adjusted, Synthetic Transmission Fluid.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:38 PM   #23
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Arps are way shorter than A1's, they dont require a bottom tap at all. . I am going to probably pull the head though, motor is out and sitting on blocks, cleaned the driver side, removed the pump. eveything looks good sofar. Plan is a couple coats of Cummins Apex red, polished covers, black fuel lines, polished timing case ect..

this is by far the cleanest 12V Ive ever worked on, no rot anywhwere (uncommon for around here. Also, just turning the motor over, it feels very tight, was a ***** to pull the motor over to get it to TDC, compression feels awesome. (I know its not the best judge, but Ive seen much worse)

what is the best way to turn the pump over when its sitting on the bench? throw the nut on and spin or is there a better way? going to throw the gov springs in while its off the motor

Picked up Springs from Weston, big thanks to him for shipping them out in a hurry.

one-fork tractor trick works every time

Click the image to open in full size.
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-06-2012, 09:44 PM   #24
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Replacing the tappet gasket would be a good call too!
 
Old 09-06-2012, 09:48 PM   #25
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The pump turning- Yes, put the nut(think the washer too) on pump and turn it, to take the nut off use an impact.
 
Old 09-06-2012, 10:23 PM   #26
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Consider changing the pan gasket, rear seal, front seal, front cover gasket too. All that stuff is so much easier with the engine off the truck.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:59 AM   #27
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Yup, tappet cover, pan, headgasket, front cover-block gasket, oil cooler gasket, allllll of it is getting replaced, been going since 5 like a mad fool, down to cleaning the long block now, lifters going in soon, then timing case and cam.

Just got springs from Weston, they look killer. Waiting on a rack plug and 4k's, thro those in, clean the pump up a bit, re-assemble, paint. hopefully Everything will be back together (longblock atleast) by tonight, with atleast a coat of primer
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-08-2012, 07:09 PM   #28
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Click the image to open in full size.

Gettin there! Besides throwing on the lift pump, and a few other small stuff, its ready to go back in. Steed is just sitting on there for looks, old mani needs to go back on untill the 62 comes. The hx/ stock manifold will get put back on for now. Next week i need to order an exhaust, and an hx40 down pipe. After that I need to chill on spending like a drunken sailor!
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-08-2012, 07:12 PM   #29
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I'm not trying to nit-pick but it appears that you dont have a ton of arp lube on the studs... i'd be careful, ive "seen" them break for not using enough lube.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:36 PM   #30
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I bought a whole bottle to do the job, each stud had plenty. They are sitting at 135ftlbs
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-09-2012, 07:20 AM   #31
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I think I paid $92 for an HX40 downpipe new shipped from Alligator. Looks good!
 
Old 09-09-2012, 02:24 PM   #32
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all back together and running, no leaks, no issues whatsoever....besides the fact that its even more gutless than before, runs fine, but mid throttle there is just nothing. Checked the timing and its spot on. Honestly think the cam hurt the performance with stock fueling. Cant wait to get it dialed in with the new injectors, when they come.
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-09-2012, 06:24 PM   #33
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I definently have a pump problem, timing is 20 deg, gov sprigs are 4k's, sent at 1 soft click, then 4 hard clicks.

I can floor the truck at 2000 rpm and it takes a LONGGGG time to ge to 3k, talking like 10 seconds.
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-09-2012, 06:28 PM   #34
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Do you have any fueling mods at all?
 
Old 09-09-2012, 07:39 PM   #35
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Besides a 2095 plug no, plan was run stock dv's with 5x16 untill i need more fuel. Im confused why after the gov springs the truck is down on what little power it has.
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-09-2012, 08:01 PM   #36
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gov springs too loose maybe? i had to tighten mine up 2clicks and they were even with the stud before
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:11 PM   #37
ahale2772
 
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I'll throw a click on them tomorro, and see how that goes. no power at all, not even stock 160hp motor power, just barely enough to get it down the road
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-10-2012, 04:47 PM   #38
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Check and make sure your AFC reference line is intact, or hooked up for that matter.. Thatll cut your top end fueling.
 
Old 09-10-2012, 05:28 PM   #39
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I did today, this is truly throwing me off. Timing is good, truck has good manners,
Just above 2g there is nothing. I may go throuh the afc and see what it looks like, grind the back of the foot, washers and just see where i stand

Could just be injectors, they seem to be on their last legs, spray on the bowls was horrible
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94 SCLB dually 11.3@122
 
Old 09-10-2012, 07:09 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahale2772 View Post
I did today, this is truly throwing me off. Timing is good, truck has good manners,
Just above 2g there is nothing. I may go throuh the afc and see what it looks like, grind the back of the foot, washers and just see where i stand

Could just be injectors, they seem to be on their last legs, spray on the bowls was horrible
alex am i gonna have to come down and diagnose your issues :P i mean its the least i could do after you helping me out
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