anyone run a quick rate 12mm

Its on!

Anybody ever have a throttle return spring break during a WOT run? I nearly chit myself!

So. Have only driven it around the mile. 3 hard pulls
Boost is similiar. A couple psi more on the primary. About 30
The truck is snappier
The butt dyno says its faster
It starts easier
Idle is a bit finicky. defenetly falls when putting it in gear.

Initial thoughts are.

I still struggle to get deep in the 3000's rpms
This is not a night and day modification for the $$$ HOWEVER!!!!!!!!!!!! This thing runs so clean at any throttle input its remarkable. Larger injectors will be coming when $$$ comes back around. This modification will allow me to run quite large injectors and drive them like 5x12's! Thats where this pump is going to shine. And i bet you that where the extra rpms will be hiding.

Cant wait to do some tuning with the spring gate.
 
It isnt getting more timing. It $ucks way too much with timing in the 20's. Its a truck... remember. Scales at 20k and such

Timing is 20*
62/71/13SS
Over
75/96/1.10
 
Peak 4ks. Seth put a different holder and shims on them. Should rev to 4k but not make power there. Which honestly is fine.
 
Seth's pumps are the best. I had a columbus built P3000 in my 4BT Dakota and had Seth redo it last winter. Night and day difference between Seth's pump and the Columbus pump. The truck starts better, idles quieter, runs cleaner and makes more power. Best money I ever spent. Going to get my 12v pump done by him this winter.
 
Here is what I’ve come up with after this modification

The cost was about $2400 ($500 of that was worn tappets)

The reason for this modifications was to be able to make crisp, clean power at a much higher level than most, while being able to use the truck as a truck. The last part of that is very important. This isn’t just a fun truck. It’s easy to make 700 hp, it’s hard to make 700hp tow like 350! Before I could make pretty clean power and I could, kinda, use the truck as intended but struggled with the amount of timing needed to keep the truck in the HP range I wanted. It made pulling a trailer a royal pain in the arse. After the pump was installed I’ve noticed quicker/crisper revs. The smoke output at WOT is down. The smoke output while building boost is down. I did install a stiffer AFC spring as I like the driving characteristics of it more. By doing this is did take some initial gusto away from performance but it did not hurt top end power or the ability to turn the truck into a rocket ship on demand. It simply controls fuel better down low. I will be going from a 5x14 to a 5x16 injector soon. It is now quite clear I am out of fuel and can control the lower rpm fueling much easier. Egts are down about 50* max of 1150*. Fuel pressure holds in the mid 40’s from an air dog 165 at WOT.

Originally a 160 pump it now is/has

Dual feed, Mack rack plug, 024 DV’s, 100 fuel plate, peak 4k springs with Seth’s seats and shims, 2.75 Hamilton quick rate cam and 2.5 Hamilton tappet springs, set to 20* timing, benched at 440 CC’s, everything else is OE. At 1.5 to 1.8hp per cc I should have enough fuel for 660-800hp.

Now did my $2400 investment gain me gobs of HP?....... No, I’m sure I gained some but it will be under 50hp with the current set-up. That’s fine though as the bigger injectors will raise that number substantially. I am very confident that this pump will easily allow me to street and work a truck with 16’s that previously would have been a smokey mess. So the modifying isn’t done, it seems to never end, however the future looks bright for a usable 700hp that my mother could use to drag the horses around.
That is saying something.

Engine specs are as follows. It amazes me how short this list is, note that this truck, in the tuning and metamorphisms process has had 5, going on 6 sets of injectors and 8 different turbo set-ups.

Stock head cut .012
.020 head gasket
60lb valve springs
425 studs
Twin ram intake
PDI t3 exhaust manifold
Injection pump as mentioned
5x14 injectors (soon to be 5x16’s)
Fluid dampener
Colt big stick camshaft
62/71/13SS over a 75/96/1.15

Transmission and driveline

A medium built 47rh (by me) about $4000 worth of goodies
Low stall 5 star converter
BD valve body
Billet flex plate (included in the $4k)
I have made an OD on/off switch that allows for 1-3 lockup while being able to manually shift into OD while towing. (Absolutely priceless!)
Went from 3.54 gears to 4.10’s and a dana 80 swap in the back
Traction bars
2 inch drop in the back
1 extra medium length spring per side for towing purposes
Drive shaft loops
New front coils
Steering box stiffener


I hope some of this is helpful as making power isn't or shouldn't be a secret its just terribly expensive and time consuming.
 
when I tow I'm normally between 16-21k combined. last weak I probably weighed 17,000 combined, max temp of 1050*, cruising around 700*. it is astonishing at how clean this truck runs. it allows these medium sizes compounds to tow much closer in traits to a smaller set. the new injectors will be here this week. it makes me very happy and a little sad to have such a small amount of smoke come out of the hood stack. lmao.

the truck does not like starting when its cold out now though. I have a cool video of its struggles at 20* lol

the more I drive the new pump the more I like it. this thing currently under any circumstance other than balls out can be driven smoke free, empty or loaded. that is by far the biggest benefit one can visually see from this pump. it looks like a gas truck with a hood stack going a buck 10 now.
 
Rough cold start? Do you think that's based on the cam, timing, or governor spring tension?

I'd be surprised if the cam hurt you with cold start. I'd put more money on the gov springs being too tight. I leave my 4k springs pretty loose and have a really strong idle because of it. Maybe ping Seth and see what he thinks.
 
Idle is higher than like. But yep. Tough starting it cold. A acts and looks like a pull truck on a full can of cocain.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top