Sticky VGT.

4x4dually

4x4dually

Moderator
Well, I've made it 200K+ without VGT issues. Driving home from dad's body shop last night after having more dents removed and a bunch of things fixed, the damned exhaust brake is now sticking on. When I use it, it brakes the truck but then when I put my foot back into it, it stays on for a bit removing all the power from the go pedal. Then it turns off and everything is back good. I'm assuming it's sooted up and getting sticky.

Anyone had to have theirs cleaned up? Is it a very hard thing to do?

Martha Fawker sure looks nice though... :D

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Check out the bd iron horn kits. They sit in the 3rd gen position so they save a little coin. You still running the good old fashioned H&S for programming? If so that might need changed if you do go to a fixed vain turbo vs a vgt, but others would probably know better than me.
 
regcanfan said:
Check out the bd iron horn kits. They sit in the 3rd gen position so they save a little coin. You still running the good old fashioned H&S for programming? If so that might need changed if you do go to a fixed vain turbo vs a vgt, but others would probably know better than me.
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Yes, still running H&S tuning with OD. Never had any issues so I'm not probably going to change anything up. Was just curious if there were anything I need to be leary of having my VGT cleaned....or if that's even the issue.
 
Well, fuk me blind... just talked to my diesel guy and he said he doesn't know anyone that can clean them and he said just put a Cheetah on it is what he normally does. $2900 plus $900 labor.

This is some bull shit.
 
For that much, I'd have to roll the dice on trying to clean it! Turbos are easy enough I've had them on and off, make a good project for the kids!

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 
I figured a bucket of carb cleaner and an over night soak would do it.....but then again, I haven't ever had one off and don't have any idea what I might can f-up in doing so. :D

I've also got battery issues I need to contend with as well. I've either got a drain or a bad cell in one of the two red tops.

It's getting all dieselbeef up in here on me. :hehe:
 
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I guess I was looking for advice on whether cleaning can be done without compromising the functionality of the thing or if they are sticking because they are worn ass out and they need to be replaced for reliability purposes.
 
Once you pull that turbo, you'll have a better understanding of why cleaning it is a really labor intensive guess. It's not an easy job at all. We've had limited success with cleaning, and to me it's not worth the gamble. You can pull the actuator off without remove the charger. We do that to check range of motion of the VG linkage. Chances are you'll find it sticking. If you decide to replace it, I second or third the Cheetah option. No calibration needed either.. Do you have a check engine light on ?
 
Snedge said:
Once you pull that turbo, you'll have a better understanding of why cleaning it is a really labor intensive guess. It's not an easy job at all. We've had limited success with cleaning, and to me it's not worth the gamble. You can pull the actuator off without remove the charger. We do that to check range of motion of the VG linkage. Chances are you'll find it sticking. If you decide to replace it, I second or third the Cheetah option. No calibration needed either.. Do you have a check engine light on ?
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CEL is on, but I assumed that's because I tried to start it and the batteries were dead. It will take a few start run cycles for that one to clear. I'll pull DTC's tonight when I get home and see what it gives me.

So, Cheetah is plug and play? Unbolt, mount it and, and drive away kind of thing?
 
I'm with Jeff. R&I is intensive enough that cleaning isn't fruitful, and usually the sticking is due to wear in and over travel anyway.

I don't know about the Dodge flavored Cummins, the commercial controllers have to go though a learn procedure for the actuator to learn the end stops when a new unit is installed.

Truck looks like a short donkey with a long dick BTW... ?
I guess the black on silver makes up for it though.

Sent from my motorola one 5G using Tapatalk
 
biggy238 said:
I'm with Jeff. R&I is intensive enough that cleaning isn't fruitful, and usually the sticking is due to wear in and over travel anyway.

I don't know about the Dodge flavored Cummins, the commercial controllers have to go though a learn procedure for the actuator to learn the end stops when a new unit is installed.

Truck looks like a short donkey with a long dick BTW... ��
I guess the black on silver makes up for it though.
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That's what I figured....I like how the wrothless POS thought it was funny to start doing this on the way back from the body shop with new paint and I was all excited. Sure killed my good vibe.

My little donkey looks better with 40+ft of trailer behind it. ;D


What are the advantages to going with the cheetah...other than drop in....performance speaking? Does it perform just like stock on boost, drive, and brake, or is it better? Their website doesn't say a whole lot.
 
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4x4dually said:
That's what I figured....I like how the wrothless POS thought it was funny to start doing this on the way back from the body shop with new paint and I was all excited. Sure killed my good vibe.

My little donkey looks better with 40+ft of trailer behind it. ;D


What are the advantages to going with the cheetah...other than drop in....performance speaking? Does it perform just like stock on boost, drive, and brake, or is it better? Their website doesn't say a whole lot.
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Will you see any difference, probably not. But it does outflow the factory charger by a good bit.
 
Can you unhook the actuator and run it like a fixed blade charger?

Just trying to get info before mine does this to me since at the current rate I will be at 200k before I have had the rig for 5 years. Or if by the time I get to 150-175K it is time to just send it up the road and start over with a new one. I put 500-750 miles a week on mine and most if not all the time I run with the exhaust brake on automatic.
 
I've always though runing the e-brake on all the time would work the VGT and keep it from sooting up and sticking like those that only turn it on once in a great while. Maybe it's kept it from sooting up but maybe it also wore it out. No clue.
 
mine is louder... the exh noise and the brake .the brake is twice slowing power ofthe old one..making 32 psi boost with stock sticks but a tow cam and ported head.

easy install. i literally unbolted it and bolted it on..no calibration no nothing. get the oil line tho. much better setup. save the 900$ its easy. mine was on a stand when i did it tho..

gettin all dieselbeef.....far from it..wont wish that on anyone i like!
 
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