Change of heart-Fly by wire swap

leftcoast12v

New member
Admittedly, I for years have been a mechanical injection fan boy. I have brushed aside advancements, while continuing to be a martyr on how mechanical injection is superior. I have since reprimanded myself and my flawed ideals. That being said, I started this journey in 2019. The beginning of this journey began with "ruining", as many have said, a 1996 federal 215 5 speed truck. I was beyond tired of a 5 speed, having slow shifting and constant worries of breaking parts in it. I found a built constant pressure 48re and purchased it. It was a fire sale of sort by a local who failed to follow through with a 48 swap on a 4th gen truck. I removed the NV4500 and put her in storage for old time sakes. I installed the 48re and paired it with an anteater. It woke the old 12 valve up and she actually felt quick. At the same time, I rebuilt the 12 valve myself, learning along with way. I must admit I have a bad habit of winging it. In this case it came back to make me pay for my transgressions. This was my first motor I had rebuilt. Well, I made several mistakes on the way and learned from them. My biggest mistake was not using Loctite or other type of sealant or adhesive on the oil galley plugs. I blew out the oil galley plug underneath the tappet cover gasket. This was relatively easy to diagnose with a bore scope. I fixed this with Loctite and sent her on her way. Knowing what i know now, but did not know then, I should have addressed the one behind the cam gear, R&R'd it. Well time went by, and I ended up putting 1,500 miles or so on the engine. This was during the beginning of covid so many parts were not available. Ie, genuine cummins oil pressure sensors. I had my Harbor Freight mechanical gauge installed and sitting on the window while driving as I felt morally inclined to do so. After many locked shifts and burned tires I blew the front plug. Ironically, it had to run several minutes before I noticed. During this same time frame I purchased a running 2006 engine and all accessories for a very fair price. I jokingly told myself if I ever hurt the 12 valve I am going to put this engine in. My motto historically has been if I have a spare of something I never will have an issue with the original item.
This is where the real rabbit hole begins.
I began reading posts from Rick Fox and others who have done this previously. I ended up purchasing a stand-alone harness from Firepunk for the 5.9. I was leaning towards a sloppy transition of thowing a used motor in my truck and running her hard until something gave or did not. I purchased a 14mm pump, ARP 625, valve train and other items. With more and more insight being had daily and my power goal increasing, I came to another crossroads. After talking with my wife and getting a "Go for it", I called up and began making some big purchases. I sold off a bunch of parts I had for the 12v and parts i had collected from waffles, including wagler billet rods:rockwoot: After selling off a ton of items I purchased a d&j 6.7. Now this is where the fun begins. I raided all the accessories off the 5.9 and installed them onto the 6.7. I had to call around to determine what injectors to run. I went with the small bowl 6.7 and wanted to still use a cm849 for tuning reasons. After Rick explained to me that I wanted 03/04 injectors, I called up Flux and ordered a set of 250%. I installed the engine soon after using VP engine motor mounts which worked directly with my frame brackets without issue. Living in a desert valley I did not want to run electric fans. So with more help from Rick I purchased a murray fan clutch, part number mtc 2791 and a murray plastic fan, part number fa72602. The fan was 23.25'' diameter. Since the oem fan shroud was 22'', I took a grinder to the plastic and with the help of a jig got it trimmed down accordingly. This has worked great to my surprise. I wanted to ensure my OEM dash cluster worked, which has been significantly easier than I expected it to be. For oil pressure I ended up using a non cummins oil pressure sending unit, as oem is still on backorder with no ETA. I installed it into the oil filter housing 1/8'' npt port. For the voltage I ran the power wire from the back of the alternator to the 12 valve OEM PDC. The coolant sensor I am currently still working on, the oem 12 valve coolant sensor is 3/4'' npt. I plan on putting it on a lathe, turning it down and then using a die to thread to 1/2'' npt. Once the sensor is the right size it will be installed on the head coolant ports above the exhaust manifold. My tachometer is using a digital dakota dash tach adapter. One of my most annoying hurdles was deciding what to do for a booster on my brakes and power steering lines. This truck did not come with hydroboost. I debated on swapping the truck but decided against it as this trucks brakes have always been great. I purchased a LEED brake bandit vacuum pump, part number leb-vp002. This has worked great thus far! The brakes feel as good as ever. The power steering pump I am running 6an lines to a derale heat sink. The 2006 CTD power steering pump fitting was a m16x1.5, my steering gearbox was m18x1.5 for pressure side and the return side was m16x1.5. I am hoping a derale 13266 has enough heat sink capabilities to be effective. I mounted it in between Bumper frame brackets or frame horns.
Another item I addressed included changing the ball and spring in my fass 260 to the low pressure for the cp3.
Thus far we have put a few hundred miles on this setup and I am loving every minute of it. I am still finding oddball things I need to finish up, like the AC system. That is next on my list of things to address. I am going to try to keep up with updating issues I may run into on here.
 

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The high pressure is a 72/86 he500 with a 1.0 t4 s400 exhaust housing I machined for it to accept. For LP it is a hc5a 91/E/36cm. I am testing the E first, if I need to slow it down I will change it to a G trim. I have a turbo smart 45mm gate I am going to get welded to the 1.0 exhaust housing. I am hoping to have it on a dyno next week for tuning purposes. I am debating on venting the gate into the LP or out the fender well.
 
I feel like I've seen this beast on Instagram.
I like it. I ended up using the OEM vac pump included in the Jacobs exhaust brake kit, which is the same diaphragm pump used on a ton of other engines for the same reason. Painless way to keep the vacuum on a CR engine. The only down side is the inability to run a bracket mounted I section pump.
Awesome work

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I too have been having a change in heart on my Fummins build I was bound and determine to mat the maddest 12valve i could. however i recently acquired a 03 cr and now Its going to be a Cr build. looking good Keep us posted on the good work love to see more of the truck
 
I too have been having a change in heart on my Fummins build I was bound and determine to mat the maddest 12valve i could. however i recently acquired a 03 cr and now Its going to be a Cr build. looking good Keep us posted on the good work love to see more of the truck

I wished I woulda went cr on mine, I just didn't wanna spend the money. But after having my pump gone through from Seth i don't think it'd of been much cheaper. What fummins are you building?
 
I have always worried about parts availability for the CR in the lang run. Meaningless if you are running a toy full tilt, but very real for a long term investment.
I have my eyes on a Superduty dually that I presume is parked over a failed engine. If I can acquire it, it will be getting a mechanical engine and a flat bed with a large lance camper just to be certain it's golden fir a long time.

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I wished I woulda went cr on mine, I just didn't wanna spend the money. But after having my pump gone through from Seth i don't think it'd of been much cheaper. What fummins are you building?
I have had A few hicups along the way and the project got put on the back burner. I am between new house new shop and my daughter having kidney cancer.

here is the shop
My Dream Shop 48x100 - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
here's the Fummins
95 fummins - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
 
After more miles on the setup and no real issues I am starting to refine a few items. I pulled the 5'' downpipe off and heat wrapped it. I would like to modify it a bit more as it still has a small piece of flexpipe that goes between the transmission adapter and connects to the main 5'' exhaust system. Deciphering how to get rid of the flexpipe to make it fit better has yet to come to me. I ended up putting the PCM back into the OEM location and heat shield wrapping wires. The wire tuck of sorts into the cowel was lackluster and I was not pleased with fitment. The cowel would not sit completely flat and seat right. Another task I am researching and coming up with a game plan for is the AC system. I am running a pump from an 06. I will be building custom lines and relocating the dryer to a different location as the 5'' downpipe will not give us room to run it in the OEM location. 2nd gen everything else. Basic parts seem to be interchangeable such as the bolt on flange on the rear of the pump between 2 and 3g.
Unfortunately, my goal of running today in Redding at NHRDA did not come to fruition. Finding employees that regularly show up seems to be my downfall. However, we should manage some dyno time this week or the following. Hoping we can send it on tune 5 on the dyno and see what she will do.
I will say, Larson really did a fine job on tune 1. I am still growing into these rolling burnouts. But being able to go near WOT with no smoke is everything this boy could have dreamed of.
 

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I have always worried about parts availability for the CR in the lang run. Meaningless if you are running a toy full tilt, but very real for a long term investment.
I have my eyes on a Superduty dually that I presume is parked over a failed engine. If I can acquire it, it will be getting a mechanical engine and a flat bed with a large lance camper just to be certain it's golden fir a long time.

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Parts availability issues for what? There has to be way more CR motors out there now than P-pump 12 valves.
 
That and the high tolerance machined parts. I think they have higher tolerance than mechanical injectors, or I could be wrong and it's the higher injection pressure making it easier to crumb it up. But high quality common rail injectors seem to be only attainable from a few places.
 
Ironically, the only real issue I have had with this swap that was not installer error.. Cough cough me.. was my APPs dying and would not read any input. Thus, I idled home for 45 minutes. Through some diag work it appears my anteater shit the bed. I am hopeful this is just a fluke and not something I should be concerned with on a regular basis of its reliability. Currently shipped to FP for further diag. The APPs reference wire was showing 8-10 volts which apparently caused my "dead" pedal. Cutting the APPs reference made the APPs work perfectly. I am remaining hopeful as I really do not want a FMVB truck in town.
 
crazu id go the other way..f all the electronic crap..ill never own another elctronic anything if i can help it
 
crazu id go the other way..f all the electronic crap..ill never own another elctronic anything if i can help it
Do to my current geographic location, I currently own two other 12v trucks, due to the fact of them being pre smog. Being able to have a truck make two or three times the power, have nearly zero smoke and no emissions makes all those wires and electronics worth it.
 
Ironically, the only real issue I have had with this swap that was not installer error.. Cough cough me.. was my APPs dying and would not read any input. Thus, I idled home for 45 minutes. Through some diag work it appears my anteater shit the bed. I am hopeful this is just a fluke and not something I should be concerned with on a regular basis of its reliability. Currently shipped to FP for further diag. The APPs reference wire was showing 8-10 volts which apparently caused my "dead" pedal. Cutting the APPs reference made the APPs work perfectly. I am remaining hopeful as I really do not want a FMVB truck in town.
I created a problem in which the fuel pump relay cycling during a flash sequence was causing flyback current with an apparent failure of the apps input. My boards have both been modified to safeguard against this (beta tester) but I'm not sure the circuit change made it to production or not since the stand alone harness was the specific cause. I would be amused if this turned up after an ECM flash.


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I wish I was able to find a better correlation such as that. I had approximately 500 miles since a reflash. The only obvious thing I can think of is it occurred immediately after hitting RR tracks. Looks like the package has been delivered this morning so I will post the findings when I receive them from FP.
 
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