Coolant out of blowby tube

I need to send in a sample to be sure, but like I said before, visually it looks clean. Dipstick has the same consistency up and down and when draining the oil there is no water that comes out first. Also, if I was to leave the oil for 5-6k it could start to show. The oil was fairly fresh when I first noticed the issue. I have changed it a couple times since, due to doing the head gasket and now the oil cooler.
 
Quinn, post #16 makes some sense.

Regcanfan, I am not a fan of "can cures" but there are some stop leaks out there that will probably fix this SHORT TERM, but chances are, it will get worse over time.

Mark.
 
Do the older heads have internal freeze plugs like the common rail heads do ?
 
No they don't.
Had to go look to be sure, though. LOL

There are some in the lifter galley, I believe.

On reflection, that would make sense as to why he has steam from the blowby pipe and little oil contamination, short term.

Mark.
 
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Not sure on the internal freeze plugs. When I had the head off I took it in to have it checked out. They pressure checked it and mangaflexed it and then did a valve job and surfaced it. The shop was just a napa machine shop, but has been around forever and has a good reputation.

As for for getting worse it seems to already be doing so. Not alot but a little. Regular driving say for 1/2 hour -1 hour you will get a quarter size glob on the floor after its shut off and cooling down. When running there is more pure antifreeze drips. This is real slow drops.
 
Hell, I'm about to York Ne, maybe I should go a little farther and see if Mark has a block.

Bought this thing this summer thinking it was going to be a good deal. Wanting something to tug a trailer around for a year or two and get basically the same out of it that I paid for it. So much for that it's been sitting more than moving.
 
Pictured is the lifter galley on a 24 valve, which for all intents is the same as a 12 valve.
1 core plug is right behind where the vent tube would be.

Mark.
 

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If you need a block, then Mark's the man to see for sure... But I'd check/replace the oil cooler and/or gaskets first. You might get lucky and that be the issue.
 
Mark Nixon said:
Pictured is the lifter galley on a 24 valve, which for all intents is the same as a 12 valve.
1 core plug is right behind where the vent tube would be.

Mark.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark. I'm a common rail guy so not very familiar with the older engines.
That freeze plug there could possibly be the culprit.
 
regcanfan said:
Hell, I'm about to York Ne, maybe I should go a little farther and see if Mark has a block.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I can't help you. :(
I scrapped about 3 tons of cast last week, with 3 12 valve blocks I'd been trying to sell all this year.

Mark.
 
That brought to mind probably about 7 or 8 years ago i was talking to a customer who had done dpf and egr delete on a couple of 6.7s. At that point I only had expirance of doing the dpf and egr valve and had just left the cooler on. I was asking him how hard it was to take the cooler off, and he looked at me and said nothing is easy on these piece of chit dodges:lolly:
 
Can't argue with that!
Swapping a trans on this 98 I have, so I'll have 5th gear, now.
The last guys only had 2 of the original bolts for the crossmember and all of the carrier bearing support bolts were hardware store bolts.
They jerry rigged the trans isolator with a GM one and the driveshaft's a mess of welded crap.

Always something. :D

Mark.
 
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Maybe someone could confirm right or wrong. On the passenger side of the block if there was a crack in a cooling jacket it would either go into the cylinder or to the outside. And on the driver side if cracked it would either go to the cylinder or the pushrod area.

There is no miss and it runs smooth. There is no pressure in the radiator causing it to push coolant out of the over fill or radiator. I feel like the cylinder walls have to be fine in reguards to that. So would that leave it up to basically the only are would be around the area which is shown in the picture Mark posted? It seems others have had some issues there as well.

Thinking if I get the pump off and the tappet cover off there maybe a good possibility that i could find the crack or a freeze plug issue. Sorry for bench racing, and if I'm totally wrong in my thinking let me know. Thanks again for the help so far.
 
regcanfan said:
That brought to mind probably about 7 or 8 years ago i was talking to a customer who had done dpf and egr delete on a couple of 6.7s. At that point I only had expirance of doing the dpf and egr valve and had just left the cooler on. I was asking him how hard it was to take the cooler off, and he looked at me and said nothing is easy on these piece of chit dodges:lolly:
Click to expand...
I don't know how much of an easier job you could do. I'd rather do that on the side of the road than change a tire with the factory tools.
 
Never any water in the oil pan when you drain after it's sat is weird. Guess maybe the plug or crack only expands when it's warm.
 
Thats the thing, no vapor or drips until up to temp. My thought is once the thermostat opens it then has enough pressure to push through wherever it is getting through.

Also it will increase with rpm.
 
Heat and pressure open cracks or rust holes and loosen sludge/debris in the water jackets.

Water pressure in the block increases with RPMs, so it stands to reason that any leak should get worse with RPMs.

Mark.
 
Started to pull the pump to night and going to peak behind the tappet cover. When i pulled the oil fill tube, the piece the screws into the crank case cover was kind of snotty from coolant contamination.

If it comes down to replacing the block, Ive found a coulple parts pickups. One is a 94 and the other is a 92 which has been ppumped. The 92 was an intercooled motor, will it be the same as a 97 block and the same pistons. I know the non intercooled have different pistions.
 
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