Building a E model.

I hear ya. I just never had this much problem out of a B, or a stock E for that matter. It was pretty easy to get 500-550 that was reliable out of the B’s. That’s why I switched to the E’s hoping to get a lil more. This one has just drove me nuts. It must’ve been built on Friday 13th by employee 666..
 
HillbillyKirk said:
I hear ya. I just never had this much problem out of a B, or a stock E for that matter. It was pretty easy to get 500-550 that was reliable out of the B’s. That’s why I switched to the E’s hoping to get a lil more. This one has just drove me nuts. It must’ve been built on Friday 13th by employee 666..
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Any b I’ve seen has had the head gasket done or needed it done. Not sure why that was.
 
jfaulkner said:
Well taking them off an Acert makes no change other than they are laggy with a single. If anything changes it’s because people add power when they single them. The myth is what the forums preach is that they are restrictive. No one actually measures drive/boost pressure, I did and have video proving it’s 1:1.





01181cb67b5fc90f8d3ad474daece784.jpg
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Acert Twin Turbo Boost/Drive Pressure - YouTube

Just have to ask.
 
HillbillyKirk said:
I hear ya. I just never had this much problem out of a B, or a stock E for that matter. It was pretty easy to get 500-550 that was reliable out of the B’s. That’s why I switched to the E’s hoping to get a lil more. This one has just drove me nuts. It must’ve been built on Friday 13th by employee 666..
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Stock 550 emodels givevery little issue. If the engine hasc been apart b4 and had poor quality/craftsmanship goin together, that cant be blamed on the engine.
Had em through here with protusions all over the map, loose headbolts ect ect. Not the engines fault cause somene did a poor job on a rebuild
 
SmokinCAT said:
Can make more reliable HP with a simple tune on an electronic engine than a B will ever make with a stock internal pump
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I’ve had pretty good luck with E models. I’ve never had this much problem with a B. Never. But then again, I never had a B model that had 666 or built on Friday 13th either.
 
Rig Wrench said:
Stock 550 emodels givevery little issue. If the engine hasc been apart b4 and had poor quality/craftsmanship goin together, that cant be blamed on the engine.
Had em through here with protusions all over the map, loose headbolts ect ect. Not the engines fault cause somene did a poor job on a rebuild
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I bought this truck with a new in frame from a dealer. Had 1year/100k warranty. Got 115k before it blew a head gasket, technically out of warranty. I got the dealer to eat the labor, I just had to buy the parts. Head gasket # 2 went at 89k. Head gasket #3 went at 101k. At this point I said to hell with it & bought another kit & head & did the work in-house. That time it went 121k, when I pulled the head #2 & #3 liners were cracked. When the liners were pulled, there was a crack in the deck between 2 & 3. The motor was never out of framed, if so, might of caught a internal crack and saved a lot of headaches. I’ve personally never had this much problem with a motor.
 
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HillbillyKirk said:
I bought this truck with a new in frame from a dealer. Had 1year/100k warranty. Got 115k before it blew a head gasket, technically out of warranty. I got the dealer to eat the labor, I just had to buy the parts. Head gasket # 2 went at 89k. Head gasket #3 went at 101k. At this point I said to hell with it & bought another kit & head & did the work in-house. That time it went 121k, when I pulled the head #2 & #3 liners were cracked. When the liners were pulled, there was a crack in the deck between 2 & 3. The motor was never out of framed, if so, might of caught a internal crack and saved a lot of headaches. I’ve personally never had this much problem with a motor.
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Was the gasket blown at the same place every time? What you tend to find out is under warranty you will rarely get issues like this fixed right. The dealer will only pull the liners that are not “within spec” and cut the block. If they’re all within the BS measurement range they will just throw a gasket on it and ship it. It just needs to make it out of warranty. Seen them blow because someone didn’t run a tap down the head bolt holes and clean them out. Bolt hits bottom before it’s tight.
 
HillbillyKirk said:
I bought this truck with a new in frame from a dealer. Had 1year/100k warranty. Got 115k before it blew a head gasket, technically out of warranty. I got the dealer to eat the labor, I just had to buy the parts. Head gasket # 2 went at 89k. Head gasket #3 went at 101k. At this point I said to hell with it & bought another kit & head & did the work in-house. That time it went 121k, when I pulled the head #2 & #3 liners were cracked. When the liners were pulled, there was a crack in the deck between 2 & 3. The motor was never out of framed, if so, might of caught a internal crack and saved a lot of headaches. I’ve personally never had this much problem with a motor.
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Was the gasket blown at the same place every time? What you tend to find out is under warranty you will rarely get issues like this fixed right. The dealer will only pull the liners that are not “within spec” and cut the block. If they’re all within the BS measurement range they will just throw a gasket on it and ship it. It just needs to make it out of warranty. Seen them blow because someone didn’t run a tap down the head bolt holes and clean them out. Bolt hits bottom before it’s tight.
 
SmokinCAT said:
Really not that common, blocks are much less likely to see liner walk than the newer engines that causes the gaskets to fail.
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Agree, usually the only pre 03 blocks we see needing cut are at or above 2mil. By age, that should be nearly the entire population though unless there is some other circumstance.

Sent from my motorola one vision using Tapatalk
 
Rig Wrench said:
Stock 550 emodels givevery little issue. If the engine hasc been apart b4 and had poor quality/craftsmanship goin together, that cant be blamed on the engine.

Had em through here with protusions all over the map, loose headbolts ect ect. Not the engines fault cause somene did a poor job on a rebuild
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Noticed that the head bolts seem to have yielded more frequently in recent history? Seemed like several of the last 15's I was in had atleast one bolt that was under torqued.

Glider engines are the worst. ALL of these places had monkeys building those engines.

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jfaulkner said:
Was the gasket blown at the same place every time? What you tend to find out is under warranty you will rarely get issues like this fixed right. The dealer will only pull the liners that are not “within spec” and cut the block. If they’re all within the BS measurement range they will just throw a gasket on it and ship it. It just needs to make it out of warranty. Seen them blow because someone didn’t run a tap down the head bolt holes and clean them out. Bolt hits bottom before it’s tight.
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That’s kinda the weird part, the 1st 2 times it was on #6. The 3rd time it was blown on #3. When we built it the last time, cut the counter bores, it then blew right between 2 & 3. The crack is in the bore on # 2 below the shim and goes across the deck to #3 and is nearly to the bottom. The machine shop told me there’s no way that it done this in roughly 125k miles. My guess, it was probably cracked between the liners from the beginning & since it wasn’t out of framed, it wasn’t visible. It just finally came to the top of the deck. Not a crack now, it’s fractured!
 
HillbillyKirk said:
Does anyone have a recommendation on what injectors to run? Acert 16:1 pistons 9710 cam.
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I’ve been covered up and don’t have a lot of free time to talk on the phone. Phone service around here lately has been crap so I have to stand outside the shop to use it. That being said....

I’ll try and make this as simple as possible. If you insist on keeping the 25yr old ecm your very limited. With that you have a few options, spend roughly $3300 on injectors and cross your fingers they are useable for the application your using the truck for. Then change files and turbos to get it to work or live. I can tell you that anything larger than 58’s and you’re on your own. I have never seen a working 40pin with anything larger. They’re just too hot and uncontrollable.

Option 2 is buy a 70pin harness, ecm and some sensors. Drill 2 holes (which is easy since the engine is already apart and the Acert crank has the correct tone ring) and find a used cam gear and keep the 58’s. You will have close to the same money in it but will have a real working high HP engine with 20 times the options for power. Can be 500hp or 1200hp changing nothing but turbos and injectors.

You can keep the 40pin, keep the 58’s run Acert twins or a laggy single and you will have exactly what a friend of mine is running on his 5EK minus the Acert crank. He’s building a 16:1 Acert to take its place with a 70pin ecm because after flashing it 30 times and trying different turbo combinations and housings he’s seen the light at the end of the tunnel.

If you don’t use the 16:1 pistons your only option is to buy Acert injectors. The 17 or 18:1 piston bowl is too small and the fuel will hit the crown and liner.
 
I’m not totally dead set on the 40 pin. That’s why I’m asking. I was under the assumption that the acert pistons weren’t a real good match for the 58’s. I plan on running the 16:1 pistons. I had to switch the crank gear to match my emodel gears. Is there something else I need to do to make the 70 pin work? I’m gonna have to rely on you if I’m gonna drill any holes. This is something that I’m not real comfortable with but I’ll try anything once. Where does the crank gear plug in at? I know approximately where the cam gear goes, I’ve seen the different places they plug into the front cover. I’ve just never seen where the crank gear is.
 
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