omg the kid these days....stereo question

I have the same sub in a small single cab box.

Use the 300 watt kicker amp made for it. I can get a part number in a bit if needed.

This isnot going to be a license plate rattling bump fest just so he knows. Sounds like a nice home theater system if that makes sense.

I gave $100 for mine complete. Sub box amp and all wires. Great system for someone who wants decent and equal sound.
 
he wants that amazon setup and sold his rc car to get it so....his money....but...if its gonna bang and thump like the hoodrat shit around here i aint having it..told him ill poke holes in em...lol..turn em off when im in the truck...

hes got about 100 left for the amp...
 
$100 should buy one. I’ll see if I can find it online before I walk to my truck in the rain ha

At full blast you will not hear it over a Cummins outside of the truck. It’s really not that kind of system. 300watts is small and if you try to throw anymore at that sub it’s gonna pop.
 
Maybe I spoke too soon I didn’t realize the twin box. Not sure how that works. Guessing you will need twice the watts.
 
i think at least 300..he oesnt want more than 500 cuz he thinks itll blow em..idk anthing about em..and really dont wanna..lol
 
dieselbeef said:
he wants that amazon setup and sold his rc car to get it so....his money....but...if its gonna bang and thump like the hoodrat shit around here i aint having it..told him ill poke holes in em...lol..turn em off when im in the truck...

hes got about 100 left for the amp...
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Be careful old timer, young buck has some size on you now, mess up his truck, he might just mess you up!

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I can't get the Amazon link to work.

Recoil RED600-1 1320 Watts Class-D Car Audio Mono-Block Subwoofer Amplifier, 1 Ohm Stable, Remote Bass Knob Included https://a.co/d/hEEHgiN

I installed the 1200.1 for my son on a dual sub bandpass and it did 104db which is ridiculous for what I call flea market shit.

The amps are reviewed favorably on YouTube and put out true power and the dollar per watt is excellent. They are Korean made like SKAR and D4S and allegedly share the same chipsets as the alpine amps from 2021. I would venture to say they share the same with kicker.

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That sub is 300watt. I was told pushing 500+ to it would kill it in no time. I have no knowledge on it myself. Info came from a very reputable sound shop here for whatever that’s worth.

Does a bass knob turn down the wattage or how does that work?
 
bateman said:
That sub is 300watt. I was told pushing 500+ to it would kill it in no time. I have no knowledge on it myself. Info came from a very reputable sound shop here for whatever that’s worth.

Does a bass knob turn down the wattage or how does that work?
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You can turn the gain down on the amp. The knob does essentially the same.
Also, that amp is 310 watts rms at 4 ohms, it should be a good match for a 300rms sub.
It is capable of 510rms at 2ohms and
660 at 1 ohm.
Peak output at 1 ohm is 1320watts
b430376bbcb77736c9cf1919dfb6cbb5.jpg


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$284.9


New Kicker 2010 C10 10" Sub Car Audio Comp Subwoofer Specifications:
10" Single 4 Ohm Competition (Comp) Series Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 300 watts
RMS: 150 watts
Impedance: Single 4 ohm
Injection molded SoloKon cone
Optimized Polyfoam Ribbed Surround
Extremely rigid cone, along with 360 degree back bracing eliminates distortion
Double stitched surround for enhanced durability
Tinsel leads woven into the spider with Kicker's Spiralead technology
Single high-temperature voice coil
45oz. Magnet structure
Frequency response: 30-500 Hz
Sensitivity: 86.2 dB
Mounting depth: 5-1/16"
 
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I was hoping biggy would be in here to help you ha. He knows is shit.

Maybe try the local pawn shop if wanting to keep it cheap. Mine came from Craigslist. Didn’t want one bad enough to pay retail myself.
 
Huge difference in how you wire them subs as well. Wire them in series you'll have an 8 ohm load on the amp. The will tone it down and reduce the power. Wire them in parellel and you'll have a 2 ohm load on the amp. If the amp is 1 ohm rated, you should be good but power goes up and so does the risk of sending the voice coil into orbit.

Kicker is a good choice thought. Headquarters are right here in Stillwater, OK. Everything used to me made here too, but not sure these days.
 
4x4dually said:
Huge difference in how you wire them subs as well. Wire them in series you'll have an 8 ohm load on the amp. The will tone it down and reduce the power. Wire them in parellel and you'll have a 2 ohm load on the amp. If the amp is 1 ohm rated, you should be good but power goes up and so does the risk of sending the voice coil into orbit.

Kicker is a good choice thought. Headquarters are right here in Stillwater, OK. Everything used to me made here too, but not sure these days.
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I thought I saw that it's a single 4 ohm so I didn't entertain 8ohm load.

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biggy238 said:
I thought I saw that it's a single 4 ohm so I didn't entertain 8ohm load.
Click to expand...

Oh. The picture showed two but the other post said single. I wasn't sure what was going on.

Twin Solobaric 12" Kickers in the Mega. Built a custom box for them. Lots of boom boom.

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Earthquake PA 2150 that I bought in or around 1990-1991. Still bumpin'. Mono-bridged. Lots of powa....at least enough for me.

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And this little jewel is worth her weight.

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