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03-14-2020, 11:28 AM
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#1
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Name: 1stack
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hillsboro,OH
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 431
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Control arms
Does anyone have any experience with Energy poly bushings for the control arms on these trucks? I just ordered a kit to do mine. I’ve read the old rubber bushings are a pain in the ass to remove? Any tips?
__________________
2003 Chev 8.1L
2004.5 Cummins sold
06 LBZ sold
05 Cummins sold
99 Cummins sold
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03-16-2020, 09:38 PM
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#2
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Name: RollCoal9000
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2019
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 99
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Yeah. Scrap the weak stock arms and get some aftermarket ones.
I wouldn't even attempt to remove the bushings without a press (basically leaf spring bushings.)
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03-17-2020, 01:18 PM
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#3
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Yeah, I used an electro-hydraulic press and they didn't budge until around 3,000 psi.
I've personally been eyeing up the MetalCloack control arms. I really like that they have an overmolded bushing design. That's what OEMs do to avoid environmental (salt) issues. And the price is cheaper than Thuren and Carli.
__________________
Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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03-17-2020, 01:44 PM
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#4
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Name: Gear Jammer
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2010
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 59
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I've use a hole saw to get the rubber out of the center of the stock bushings. Then the rubber gets stuck in the hole saw though. I've been told you can use a drill and drill holes around the outer edge of the rubber, and the drill bit should walk itself around the outside of the rubber bushing separating it from the metal sleeve it sits in.
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13 Ram 2500
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03-19-2020, 09:33 AM
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#5
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Name: Howling
Title: Soot Sniffer
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Northern,IL
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox
Yeah, I used an electro-hydraulic press and they didn't budge until around 3,000 psi.
I've personally been eyeing up the MetalCloack control arms. I really like that they have an overmolded bushing design. That's what OEMs do to avoid environmental (salt) issues. And the price is cheaper than Thuren and Carli.
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I have Metalcloak on my 2nd gen and they are nice . Would definitely upgrade the arms instead of the bushings only.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Eric
2006 Dodge CTD/48re 4x4 Sport
With some fuel and air.
Bullseye,Hamilton,Exergy,EFI,ATS,FASS,HTS,Thuren, Toyo's...
1996 2500 RC 4x4 CTD-63/68/.83,5X.014,180 maxed Ppump,Fass...
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03-19-2020, 07:16 PM
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#6
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Name: SKYNYRD
Title: "Drunkard"
Status: Not Here
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Harpers Ferry, WV
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 5,666
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I went with Carli control arms. If you have a leveling kit on the truck I would suggest getting longer after market arms as it made a difference in steering and driving.
__________________
Leonard
79 VW rabbit diesel (ALH & 4motion )
04.5 rclb 4x4
01 & 03 VW Golf TDI
05 rcsb 2wd (in progress )
ROSKOE115: "It's ain't avatar material but I'd hit it!"
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03-20-2020, 07:20 PM
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#7
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Name: RollCoal9000
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2019
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 99
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I got mine from a company called "top guns customs" poly bushings that are supposed to be a better material. Solid arms, greasable but cant really pump grease in them after install (might get better with time.).
Stock track bar with poly bushings and carli shocks w/ bilstein stabilizer. 2.5" rough country? Soft ride springs. Rides good for being lifted, would be better with an adjustable track bar. I have energy bushings in the front of the leaf's since the stock ones were blown out.
I would go with any non-adjustable arms with poly bushings, extended length if you have a lift.
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03-21-2020, 07:01 AM
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#8
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Name: 1stack
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hillsboro,OH
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 431
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I got my arms out last night. The top bolt on the passenger side sucks. Down pipe in the way. Had to cut it with sawzall. Going to press bushings out today and reinstall.
__________________
2003 Chev 8.1L
2004.5 Cummins sold
06 LBZ sold
05 Cummins sold
99 Cummins sold
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03-21-2020, 12:08 PM
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#9
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Name: RyanMayo
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Maine
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 348
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I did it about 6 or 7 years ago... I didn't have a press at the time, and it got ugly haha. I bought a press after that. I did the track bar bushings at the same time, and all together it made a noticeable difference in both steering and ride, which has lasted so far.
__________________
2004 Ram 2500 qcsb
64/71/14, 100 hp nozzles, smarty, billet trans
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03-21-2020, 07:41 PM
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#10
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Name: 1stack
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Hillsboro,OH
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 431
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Back together today. Pressing bushings out and pressing new ones in was a breeze. Now just have to wait on one bolt I ordered thru Dodge. The only reason I ordered one was because the old one had a taper on it.
My fault though was I didn’t mark the camber bolts on the lower arms. I’m gonna have to get the truck aligned I guess.
__________________
2003 Chev 8.1L
2004.5 Cummins sold
06 LBZ sold
05 Cummins sold
99 Cummins sold
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03-23-2020, 09:20 AM
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#11
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Name: CorneliusRox
Title: Seasoned Rookie
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Detroit, MI
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RollCoal9000
I got mine from a company called "top guns customs" poly bushings that are supposed to be a better material. Solid arms, greasable but cant really pump grease in them after install (might get better with time.).
Stock track bar with poly bushings and carli shocks w/ bilstein stabilizer. 2.5" rough country? Soft ride springs. Rides good for being lifted, would be better with an adjustable track bar. I have energy bushings in the front of the leaf's since the stock ones were blown out.
I would go with any non-adjustable arms with poly bushings, extended length if you have a lift.
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I used some of their stuff back in the day when they were on eBay only and I was broke as Hell but still wanted to do truck stuff.
Other than some metal parts that had corrosion issues (cheap paint), their stuff was really top notch. A bunch of their stuff is still on my 12V a decade later.
Their pitman arm is broached instead of forged splines like the other aftermarket ones. That makes a HUGE difference.
__________________
Corey - BSME '21 Tesla Model 3 Perf
'22 DMax AT4 2500
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