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Old 11-27-2017, 10:32 PM   #1
dangerous06
 
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Eating Alternators

Ok so I deleted the fuel filter on a 2012. The water in fuel light was on so I thought I could jump the sensor plug to make it go away. I turned the key on and something on the passenger side fried let out the smoke but I can't find it!
the truck is now frying Alternators. Not even sure what's frying! Smells bad!
Put a new one in lasted 2 minutes was charging fine then bam light on and burnt something. Anyone have a clue as to whats going on here?
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Old 11-27-2017, 11:40 PM   #2
DDually
 
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Start chasing wires and stop throwing alternators at it.
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Old 11-28-2017, 05:40 AM   #3
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Did you unjumper the water in fuel sensor?
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:43 AM   #4
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Sorry about your luck, I do have a good 2012 alternator for sale if you're interested
 
Old 11-28-2017, 06:31 PM   #5
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My moms mail car was doing the same thing the wiring diagram showed a diode in the harness but the dealership couldn't tell me where so i took one form a ford OBS fuse panel and put it in the circuit problem solved.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:17 PM   #6
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Well I'm getting 26v before it pops! How is that even possible?! Yeah jumper was immediately removed I bet it needs a resistor. This is so weird! thinking of just isolating the system with a external regulator. I'm thinking the ecm or the tipm is fryed in the charging section.
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Last edited by dangerous06; 11-28-2017 at 09:18 PM.
 
Old 11-29-2017, 10:07 PM   #7
dangerous06
 
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Just a weird update: If your truck comes with a 130 amp alt put a 130 amp back in!
Thought upgrading was a good idea NO! it messes with the PCM and burns out! How weird is that?!
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerous06 View Post
Well I'm getting 26v before it pops! How is that even possible?! Yeah jumper was immediately removed I bet it needs a resistor. This is so weird! thinking of just isolating the system with a external regulator. I'm thinking the ecm or the tipm is fryed in the charging section.
An easy way to do it would be to measure the resistance of the sensor as the input changes (not really sure how those sensors read). Then the ECM voltage to it. You can find yourself a resistor at that point.

I'd also check to see if the sensor has a built in diode. You'd want one too if it does. I assume that's where some of your issues came from.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerous06 View Post
Just a weird update: If your truck comes with a 130 amp alt put a 130 amp back in!
Thought upgrading was a good idea NO! it messes with the PCM and burns out! How weird is that?!
lol come on! You're better than that! Putting in a larger fuse is never upgrading!
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Old 11-30-2017, 06:21 PM   #9
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K.I.S.S.
Keep
it
Simple
Stupid !
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:20 AM   #10
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Well crap it lasted 24 miles and burnt out AGAIN! Any ideas out there? I'm going with a
3rd gen alt with an external regulator see what that does!
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48RE, 5" exhaust,Carrillo rods, Pacbrake!
 
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