Building a 47RH for 300-350 hp. Let help please?

T

thisguy65

New member
I highly highly doubt I'll go over 300hp given this motor will be in a car and will weight in at 3,500-4,000 pounds said and done with.

Been talking to a few transmission shops about their kits.

One is built right transmission (BRTPerformance.com) who use to work at PATC for 13 or so years.

So when rebuilding your transmission who kit did you go with and have you had any issues with it?
 
All the pan off upgrades and a single disc tc with stall of your choice. Wouldn't hurt to run a lockup switch as well. Done
 
Honestly I'd just do flex plate,convertor, input shaft and a good valve body. And for flex plate just find a good sfi rated one doesn't have to be and over priced billet.
 
I used a billet single disk, billet input shaft, stock rebuild kit from cascade transmission parts, super servo (I just use sonnax billet servo covers now), Transgo shift kit, used billet flex plate ( I use sfi plates now). Anyways that tranny lasted 30k miles many boosted launches but the output did finally snap, truck dynod 349/789 and ran consistent 13.7s with 5x10 injectors, 160 pump with racked barrels, 140 gph pusher pump, 026 delivery valves and a lockup switch. Also a he351

It was 300 rpm lower than stock stall speed. I used a lockup switch when I raced it

At the time I told myself I didn't need a triple disk , I only wanted a little more power, etc.... might as well get the 900$ reman triple made by dpc.
 
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A input shaft is really needed? This is going in a 4,000 pound truck that's 7" off the ground. lol

Stage 1/2 kits are what most shops have said including PATC. A converter is a must since mine is a v10 that I currently have.


Something like this.

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cool build. A local guy is finishing up his "mack rat" build wth a 12 valve/47re swap. It is lighter but if you use a converter lock up switch you risk the chance of breaking your input shaft and damaging your trans pump, converter , maybe the direct drum or you might get lucky and just have it break a little and cause other issues.

The lock up switch will knock at least a few seconds off your 0-60 time
 
Even with a stock 8,000 lbs truck, it can handle 300-350hp at the wheels with just upping the line pressure off the valve body. Turn the screw in that's right next to the TV screw.

If you've got something even lighter, you'll be completely fine.

I would just make sure you've got a good filter, good fluid, and good cooling. A larger trans pan wouldn't be a bad upgrade, or a stock 48re TC that could be had for pennies. But you really don't need to spend any money for that power level.
 
Who's kits/parts would you guys recommend? I'm not racing it to be bluntly honest. If budget allows I would build it up just a little more so I'm not pushing the trans at the limit.

What fluid/converters do you guys recommend?
 
thisguy65 said:
Who's kits/parts would you guys recommend? I'm not racing it to be bluntly honest. If budget allows I would build it up just a little more so I'm not pushing the trans at the limit.

What fluid/converters do you guys recommend?
Click to expand...

Trans Pan: Mag Hytec 47/48re
Fluid: Stock Stall - PDD ATF
Fluid 100-200rpm lower Stall - Case Hy-Tran Ultra

Under 400hp, I'd do that and adjust the line pressure screw up to damn near full tight.

Past 400hp and I'd recommend a billet input and triple disc TC, and a VB. But that's all experience in a 8,000lbs truck, but a light vehicle.
 
Thanks. I use to use John Deer Hyguard when I race my mustang. While on the transbrake my temps would increase 100 degrees per second while on ATF. Using a 50/50 mixture the temps were A LOT more controllable.

I need to get a tech manual, I know zero about there other than the TV cable acts a little different by driving the pressure up (like a gas pedal) vs modulator transmission.
 
A fresh stock transmission with a shift kit or performance VB will handle 350 HP. If you want more reliablity, add a single disk upgraded converter, and 1 extra clutch in 3rd/direct.
 
The only thing I would do different than what everyone said is go with a triple disk. A little more money but you are covered when and if you go with more horsepower.
 
Put a valve body in it and run it. Unless you plan on doing a billet input I wouldn't put a triple disc converter in. I'm not real fond on seeing stock input shafts broke off in a $1000-1400 torque converter.
 
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