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Old 03-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #21
crewgirl
 
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RonA, there is no such thing as too much information, post whatever you have.
Ktown, I have that wiring schematic printed out. It just gave me more questions that answers.

As an update, no one has really addressed the wire gauge issue, so I've decided to use 10 ga wire for all of it. That seems much simpler than buying a whole bunch of different sizes. I've located a couple of places to get 70 amp relays locally (cheaper than anything I can order online), and an inline fuse holder that will accept the maxi size fuses (which is the only blade type fuse I can find in 65 amps. I'll include this info in the write up I do.
While talking to Michael about this I mentioned wanting a junction box in my truck to clean up the wiring under the hood. Older Chevys came with these and I LOVE them. Found a cheap one at Auto Zone. This will solve the key on hot issue easily.
Thanks to everyone who is trying to help, and like I said, the more info the better so keep posting if you have something to add.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:49 PM   #22
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A bit different than a newer truck.
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File Type: jpg 001.jpg (81.1 KB, 0 views)
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:52 PM   #23
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Did you use a solenoid to control your solenoid? Is that what I'm seeing?
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What.. I love 24 valves......
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yes...set your purse down, pull your skirt up, and grow a set...
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dont argue with anna. she knows everything
 
Old 03-10-2012, 09:25 PM   #24
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Did you use a solenoid to control your solenoid? Is that what I'm seeing?
yes. It's a Cole Hersee from the local auto parts store. I don't remember the model number but it's probably stamped on it. The wiring isn't complicated but it's not as tidy looking as the pictures posted before.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:28 PM   #25
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I actually thought about using a solenoid to control the solenoid!!!
But like I said, I sourced a 70 amp relay for like 7 bucks locally.
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dont argue with anna. she knows everything
 
Old 03-10-2012, 09:35 PM   #26
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Compared to the cost of the fuel shut off solenoid, the rest is cheap. Good luck with the rest of it. Don't forget to set up your injectors for the p-pump.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:44 PM   #27
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They're supposed to be set at 310 bar....
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What.. I love 24 valves......
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dont argue with anna. she knows everything
 
Old 03-11-2012, 01:59 PM   #28
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They're supposed to be set at 310 bar....
Man you set them high lol I thought I went high with 300 bar.

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Old 03-11-2012, 04:28 PM   #29
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I had em set at 310-315ish in your truck.
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:40 PM   #30
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when i had them reset they were at 255 and i put them at 300 now.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:07 PM   #31
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I bore the feed passage in the body to 2mm, press a sleeve in the body to take the spring pocket down to .305, turn the compression pin down to .12 so it fits the 12V spring and put it back together with the pop off pressure set at 285 bar. It will start getting smokey on the bottom when the pressure gets down into the 260 range. The 12V spring is shorter so you will need more shim(usually 3 shims instead of 2).
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:33 PM   #32
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when i had them reset they were at 255 and i put them at 300 now.
Ah that's it. I couldn't remember exactly where they were. Before I had Seth do them they were at 310-315.
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