Opinions 12V vs p pumped 24V

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Sniper32

New member
Ok yall I need some advice/opinions. Im looking at starting a project truck in the near future. Im going to be doing a restomod and want to throw a Cummins into it. Id prefer to keep it mechanical so I dont have to mess with the computers and dont have to transplant the gauge cluster. Im stuck between a 12V and a p-pumped 24V. So what are your thoughts?

Im a Ford guy so I dont have too much knowledge on Cummins, but have been talking with some friends about it and getting pushed towards the p pumped 24v. My end goal is a 600ish hp, but i want it clean for when im cruising around. I will probably put it on the strip every now and then too.
 
A set of twins on a 12V will Easily get you there relatively smoke free with the right tuning. P-pump 24V the cost of the conversion alone will cost as much as buying a 12 valve, let alone buying a non 53 blocked 24 valve.
 
No_Chip_92 said:
A set of twins on a 12V will Easily get you there relatively smoke free with the right tuning. P-pump 24V the cost of the conversion alone will cost as much as buying a 12 valve, let alone buying a non 53 blocked 24 valve.
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What he said. You're almost buying 2 engines to do a p pump 24v, you could probably get close to 600 with a 12v with the money you'd spend on doing a 24v.

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I don't know about your area, but around here you can find 12v engines for reasonable money, but people still want pretty high prices for a 24v. Much easier and cheaper for parts.
 
I don't think bang for your buck is there to really do the excessive work and spending the money for a p-pumped 24v...my .02... the 12v tuned w/ a correct single or compounds will be very nice. Yes I'm a little biased but I've owned both 24v mildly tuned and now a built 12v w/ compounds, both 5 spds.
 
Lucky Jeff said:
Is there really a benefit though? I have considered it. But I have been told the bigger cubes alone won't spin a larger single like I want. It's the electronics that make that possible.
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I've never done it, but i have been planning on it. Bigger cubes move more CFM out the exhaust than a 5.9 and if a 5.9 can do it, a 6.7 can do it too. RPM vs RPM the 6.7 moves more air to spin a charger. I'm not going to get into the velocity part of it.

Although, when i do it, i want twins. :rockwoot:
 
LORDDiESEL said:
I've never done it, but i have been planning on it. Bigger cubes move more CFM out the exhaust than a 5.9 and if a 5.9 can do it, a 6.7 can do it too. RPM vs RPM the 6.7 moves more air to spin a charger. I'm not going to get into the velocity part of it.

Although, when i do it, i want twins. :rockwoot:
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I don't want to screw with twins this time. For one, I don't have the patience to tune them. And two, I don't want the clutter in the engine bay. Pump, turbo, engine, is all I want to see when I pop the hood. "Diesel hot rod" is the goal.
 
Lucky Jeff said:
I don't want to screw with twins this time. For one, I don't have the patience to tune them. And two, I don't want the clutter in the engine bay. Pump, turbo, engine, is all I want to see when I pop the hood. "Diesel hot rod" is the goal.
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Big single for you then!!
 
Even if you're starting with a 24v, you'll be money ahead to do a 12v swap than doing a 24v conversion. You can buy a conversion kit, or a 12v engine for about the same money. If you buy an engine for it, then you're stuck with most of a 12v that doesn't run and 24v parts most people don't want. Only thing real worth cash from a 24v is the APPS and VP if they work. Swap the 12v in, and you'll have a running 24v to sell.

If you're starting sans engine, just buy a 12v and be done.
 
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