AFC live.

[Chevycummins]

Having an issue with this. Anyone that is knowledgeable able to call and assist? Hard to explain the issue through text. Basically as we time it and come up to where we increase power it all the sudden acts as we flipped the full power switch.

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[jasonc]

Spring is to light.

[Chevycummins]

Have the 35-45 psi spring from them.

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[Chevycummins]

Only hitting 35 psi max when it does the full power issue

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[jasonc]

Take it off and regulate your air compressor to 35 while it's in your hand to see what it's doing. Pull the afc all the way back towards the firewall and see what it acts like.

[Chevycummins]

I'll try that. Before this we never had it respond this way with fuel. The box gives some adjustment but then it seems to hang up as you try to bring the power adjustment up then all the sudden comes on at full blast

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[jasonc]

Just tighten the star wheel some and see how it likes it. If that limits travel after the fact change springs.

[Bponci]

Pull it off and throw it away. You should read and learn how to tune the afc to your liking. That part is for people that don't know how to tune or too lazy to learn. Reading threads will help you in the long run. Knowledge is a great tool to have.

[Chevycummins]

Originally Posted by Bponci

Pull it off and throw it away. You should read and learn how to tune the afc to your liking. That part is for people that don't know how to tune or too lazy to learn. Reading threads will help you in the long run. Knowledge is a great tool to have.

I know how to tune it but I am not going to ride all over the the United states with him and make adjustments. This is in a toter home and not the usual pickup.

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[Justappumped24v]

Originally Posted by Bponci

Pull it off and throw it away. You should read and learn how to tune the afc to your liking. That part is for people that don't know how to tune or too lazy to learn. Reading threads will help you in the long run. Knowledge is a great tool to have.

I can tune and have learned and still have an AFC live just my 2 cents. I love being able to make on the fly adjustments without pulling over and wrenching on my truck

[diesel_importer]

Yep, I agree. AFC Live is sweet for customers.


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[Chevycummins]

Originally Posted by diesel_importer

Yep, I agree. AFC Live is sweet for customers.


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It seems to be if I could get this one to work.

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[Chevycummins]

now that i am in front of a computer i can explain this a little better. before everyone bashes the set up we are aware that the setup is not ideal. we are using this on a 5.9 cummins in an FL70 Freightliner. it will be getting swapped with a ppump 8.3 as soon as we can find one and the parts to swap it over.

due the owners driving habits and the areas that he will be taking this we installed this AFC Live to be able to adjust for loads, elevation, and weather. the pump has been benched by Seth, stock injectors have been reset by Seth, studs added for insurance(due to drivers habits), and trans has been swapped from a 6spd to a 10spd.

now with the AFC Live. i got the preboost set and have some adjustability with it on the box. the power knob is the one i started having issues with. starting with it turned almost all the way out and turning it in to add power is where the issues start.

from what i understand is that the AFC Live uses needle valves and i am aware how those work. from the start of tuning it appears to work correctly, as in while turning up the power by the knob you can hear it increase(turbo spool and rpms) then it hits a certain point and then just goes balls to the wall.

what appears to happen is that the needle is getting stuck until i apply enough spring pressure and then it pops into place. in doing so it acts as if i flipped the full power switch. the other issue is that when we try to back out of it with the knob it will not come out of full power mode unless you completely let off the throttle and let the boost come back to zero. i have tried this with the fuel rate knob in multiple positions and still get the same response.

i even tried doing it opposite with the power knob almost maxed out and using the fuel rate knob to try and tune it just to see if it made any difference.

we are using the PDD 35-45 psi spring kit and have not seen over 35 psi currently. prior to the AFC Live install the afc did not respond this way and it was only manually tuned with stock spring.

[Big Blue24]

Generally when adjusting the red power knob up, it's easiest to adjust the black smoke control/response knob in the fully open counter clockwise direction so it does not mess with your tuning feedback by delaying changes made to the red knob. When turning power down, it's best to roll into the throttle and if EGT is too high (or too much total fueling) let off the throttle to let boost come down, adjust the knob below where you think it needs to be say 1/2 turn down, then turn the knob 1/4 turn up (so total change is 1/4 turn down (counterclockwise). The action of going too far downward and adding tension by going back up a little resets the internal regulator function and allows the unit to function properly. Then roll into the throttle and see if the fueling level is acceptable. If fueling is still too high, let off and repeat the same turn down/turn up process. If fueling is less than desired, simply add a little more fuel with a slow clockwise turn on the red power knob. Increased power settings can be changed at full throttle/boosted conditions. Decreased power setting changes work best when no or very low boost is present. Once the max fueling is set, then work on the smaller black knob to create a fueling curve. A good starting point for the black knob is turned all the way in clockwise, then back out one full turn. I like to make response/smoke/fuel curve adjustments 1/4 turn at a time.

Also, the max travel spring kits are rated by typical boost range they are used, not the actual boost pressure required for maximum travel. The 35 to 45 psi spring goes full travel in the 28 to 30 psi range. If you have a nice turned up pump from Seth, and you're building a towing truck, I'd expect reasonable towing settings to occur in the 15 to 20 psi AFC pressure range.

Also, a heavier AFC spring can be used if you'd like more resolution in your tuning settings meaning if you want the largest range from minimum to maximum fueling vs. AFC pressure, install a heavier AFC spring. For my personal daily driver, I run our 30-35 psi spring because it creates a more aggressive fuel curve in full power mode when I want it, and with the "tuned-mode" settings, I can still slowdown the fuel curve and limit maximum fueling enough to be street friendly. Back before AFC LIVE, I used to run an old 160 pump governor spring that didn't allow full travel till almost 55 psi. While this worked reasonably well to create a fuel curve, it was too heavy of a spring more towing at times where it would hit a wall where it couldn't accelerate and couldn't boost more boost right around the 20psi total boost range. When running unloaded, this wasn't an issue because the truck could slowly push through the "flat spot". The only solution when loaded was to slide the AFC further forward to move this "flat spot" higher up in the boost range where it wouldn't get stuck in 3rd lockup on a big hill. The slid forward AFC position would result in uncontrollable bottom end smoke that could only be controlled with less aggressive throttle application. With AFC LIVE and the old 55 psi governor spring, the same flat spot existed so the only way to cure the issue was a lighter AFC spring.

So on my 98' daily driver, Farrell maxed 215 pump, 5x020 injectors, K27/472sxe compounds, I run the 30-35 psi spring which goes full travel at 26 psi boost. When empty I've tuned max AFC pressure to 21psi and smoke control knob is 1.25 turns counter clockwise from fully closed. When I tow my race truck/trailer 16k total gross weight, I turn the max AFC pressure to 15 psi with the Red fuel knob and turn the smoke control knob to 1 turn CCW from fully closed. When I tow Todd's 6k race truck on his 7.5k Backhoe trailer 21k total gross weight, I turn max AFC pressure to 12 psi with the Red fuel knob and smoke control knob is just less than 1 turn CCW from fully closed.

If these suggestions don't help, feel free to call-in and we'll try to better assist you over the phone.

PDD Shop Number (435)962-9555 9am till 5pm Mountain Standard Time Mon thru Fri

[Chevycummins]

Originally Posted by Big Blue24

Generally when adjusting the red power knob up, it's easiest to adjust the black smoke control/response knob in the fully open counter clockwise direction so it does not mess with your tuning feedback by delaying changes made to the red knob.

i was trying it in the fully opened, fully closed, and various points in between. regardless of position of the little black knob, while turning the red knob in you would get the audible power increase(turbo &
rpm) to a certain point then it would just dump to max fuel.

When turning power down, it's best to roll into the throttle and if EGT is too high (or too much total fueling) let off the throttle to let boost come down, adjust the knob below where you think it needs to be say 1/2 turn down, then turn the knob 1/4 turn up (so total change is 1/4 turn down (counterclockwise). The action of going too far downward and adding tension by going back up a little resets the internal regulator function and allows the unit to function properly. Then roll into the throttle and see if the fueling level is acceptable. If fueling is still too high, let off and repeat the same turn down/turn up process. If fueling is less than desired, simply add a little more fuel with a slow clockwise turn on the red power knob. Increased power settings can be changed at full throttle/boosted conditions. Decreased power setting changes work best when no or very low boost is present. Once the max fueling is set, then work on the smaller black knob to create a fueling curve. A good starting point for the black knob is turned all the way in clockwise, then back out one full turn. I like to make response/smoke/fuel curve adjustments 1/4 turn at a time.

Also, the max travel spring kits are rated by typical boost range they are used, not the actual boost pressure required for maximum travel. The 35 to 45 psi spring goes full travel in the 28 to 30 psi range. If you have a nice turned up pump from Seth, and you're building a towing truck, I'd expect reasonable towing settings to occur in the 15 to 20 psi AFC pressure range.

the pump was only balanced and checked. its still stock aside from the afc mods and timing adjustment. the injectors are also stock 210hp.

Also, a heavier AFC spring can be used if you'd like more resolution in your tuning settings meaning if you want the largest range from minimum to maximum fueling vs. AFC pressure, install a heavier AFC spring.

typically before we installed the AFC live we was only seeing 20-25 psi while driving on the stock spring. with the mods and AFC live we are seeing up to 35 psi under max fueling. might try tightening up the afc spring to get some more overal boost control.

For my personal daily driver, I run our 30-35 psi spring because it creates a more aggressive fuel curve in full power mode when I want it, and with the "tuned-mode" settings, I can still slowdown the fuel curve and limit maximum fueling enough to be street friendly. Back before AFC LIVE, I used to run an old 160 pump governor spring that didn't allow full travel till almost 55 psi. While this worked reasonably well to create a fuel curve, it was too heavy of a spring more towing at times where it would hit a wall where it couldn't accelerate and couldn't boost more boost right around the 20psi total boost range. When running unloaded, this wasn't an issue because the truck could slowly push through the "flat spot". The only solution when loaded was to slide the AFC further forward to move this "flat spot" higher up in the boost range where it wouldn't get stuck in 3rd lockup on a big hill. The slid forward AFC position would result in uncontrollable bottom end smoke that could only be controlled with less aggressive throttle application. With AFC LIVE and the old 55 psi governor spring, the same flat spot existed so the only way to cure the issue was a lighter AFC spring.

right now the afc is in the middle with only enough turns on the preboost to make it get it to start then plus approx 1-2 turns to help with acceleration under zero boost.

So on my 98' daily driver, Farrell maxed 215 pump, 5x020 injectors, K27/472sxe compounds, I run the 30-35 psi spring which goes full travel at 26 psi boost. When empty I've tuned max AFC pressure to 21psi and smoke control knob is 1.25 turns counter clockwise from fully closed. When I tow my race truck/trailer 16k total gross weight, I turn the max AFC pressure to 15 psi with the Red fuel knob and turn the smoke control knob to 1 turn CCW from fully closed. When I tow Todd's 6k race truck on his 7.5k Backhoe trailer 21k total gross weight, I turn max AFC pressure to 12 psi with the Red fuel knob and smoke control knob is just less than 1 turn CCW from fully closed.

this setup weighs 21.5k by its self and is roughly 31.5k with the trailer behind it.

If these suggestions don't help, feel free to call-in and we'll try to better assist you over the phone.

talked to a couple guys yesterday and asked for you also but you was out or busy. going to try it again this evening before you all close out there.

PDD Shop Number (435)962-9555 9am till 5pm Mountain Standard Time Mon thru Fri

see comments in red.

[Chevycummins]

Tested the box as suggested to start and as I brought up the power knob it was good til I reached 15 psi and it would just take off to full fuel. If I kept it below that it worked fine. I was on the phone with a rep while driving it and making adjustments and he suggested trying a different box so now waiting on that to try and see if that will fix things

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