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Old 04-28-2012, 08:55 AM   #21
CSnyder
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSnyder View Post
thats the truth!

Seriously OP if you are going to go through the trouble to remove the engine, pull injectors, and open a valve to TRY removing the pistons out the bottom you are definately in the wrong place. Like someone else said....trip over a dollar to pick up a dime. Why are you so concerned about the headgasket being replaced? Its not a big deal at all. If doing it right is confusing you then you should just take it to a mechanic to do the work.

On Edit...I see the engine is already out of the truck....just load it into a truck and take it to someone. I can tell by the questions you have that Cummins is new to you and if you phuck it up doing it wrong or not getting it right then there will be a new thread on what happened.
Quote:
Originally Posted by me2 View Post
Just to clarify, if you read the initial post, the engine is already out of the truck.
see my last post....
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:58 PM   #22
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Dude are you serious??? Just yank the head off. Pull your injectors and valve train first and use all new seals and orings. And a NEW head gasket. Cummins charges $86 for a stock one. And I don't think 12v rods work on a 6.7. You need to use billet rods from what I have seen. Also I think you might just wanna take it to someone who has done this before.
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:18 AM   #23
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i thought 12v valve rods were stronger and will work??
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:17 AM   #24
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i thought 12v valve rods were stronger and will work??
They will.. but if you plan on big hp for a 6.7, you better go billet..
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:28 AM   #25
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Issue with 12v rods clearing the cam as well...

Depends on the camshaft.
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Last edited by icemanjc1; 04-29-2012 at 03:31 AM.
 
Old 04-29-2012, 08:43 AM   #26
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While it may not be the best way, I have seen a machine shop swap a rod from the bottom in a 5.9 so it can be done. He pulled the crank, pulled the piston to bdc, took out the pin, swapped rods and put it back. I Wouldn't want to do it that way but it can be done.
 
Old 04-29-2012, 09:38 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Swole View Post
They will.. but if you plan on big hp for a 6.7, you better go billet..
That makes sense thanks swole
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:40 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icemanjc1 View Post
Issue with 12v rods clearing the cam as well...

Depends on the camshaft.

Thanks
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:53 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icemanjc1 View Post
Issue with 12v rods clearing the cam as well...

Depends on the camshaft.
Stock camshaft. Will they clear ?
 
Old 04-29-2012, 09:55 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seriousdiesel View Post
While it may not be the best way, I have seen a machine shop swap a rod from the bottom in a 5.9 so it can be done. He pulled the crank, pulled the piston to bdc, took out the pin, swapped rods and put it back. I Wouldn't want to do it that way but it can be done.
Interesting. Tempting.

You'd still have to remove the front cover to get the crank out. Not sure how much easier that is than removing the head, given that I need to do head studs anyway.

Last edited by me2; 04-29-2012 at 10:09 PM.
 
Old 04-29-2012, 09:57 PM   #31
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Interesting. Tempting.
No.... Why would you go thru the trouble of pulling the crank wich is heavier than the head, the block stiffener. Front case cover and rear main cover? Just why?
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:17 PM   #32
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You can't fix stupid...
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:26 PM   #33
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You can't fix stupid...
Just read thru the whole post and then this....that funny!!
 
Old 05-04-2012, 06:02 PM   #34
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You can't fix stupid...
Not even with duct tape.
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Old 05-11-2012, 03:16 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seriousdiesel View Post
While it may not be the best way, I have seen a machine shop swap a rod from the bottom in a 5.9 so it can be done. He pulled the crank, pulled the piston to bdc, took out the pin, swapped rods and put it back. I Wouldn't want to do it that way but it can be done.
What block was that on because i tried that on a 12v and it dosnt work the piston dosnt come down enough to get the pin out

Edit nevermind i see now its in 6.7 section



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Last edited by Cummin_un_glued; 05-11-2012 at 03:25 PM.
 
Old 05-11-2012, 03:51 PM   #36
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Stupid is easy to fix... you just usually end up going to jail...
 
Old 05-11-2012, 04:58 PM   #37
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I have been worried about this fella for awhile now.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:22 PM   #38
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Well most of us that do this for a living and know these engines. Find the easiest and quickest way to do things why would you jump a puddle and dive in a pond makes no sense
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Blue24 View Post
You can't get the piston past the crank or block on the bottom.


This picture is from the underside of a 6.7 block in-frame with the oil pan removed and #1 piston & rod removed from the top side.

Click the image to open in full size.
Man that rod journal looks used lol.
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:25 PM   #40
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all though the question was a little newb ish for compD, Y'all dont need to rip his goodems off for it
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