12v to 3rd gen 1500 conversion

[torkjunky]

Frist post
I have been doing the conversion and it been going pretty well. Truck was a V6 6 speed. Changing to 12V 5 speed. Rebuilt the engine. I had a long block lying around. Bought a knocking 97 for all the parts needed to complete the motor. I was wondering what is the max timing you can safely run as a DD?

One of my goals on the conversion was to have all the gauges working. Got that done.

[DDually]

Looks like you have studs in there so it's safe to go a bit more than without them. For daily driving I wouldn't go over 22-26* because you lose some spooling capabilities. Mine is at 20* now but I'm going to bump it to 24* here shortly. Keep in mind that lower timing will spool turbos better but you will lose some top end power. If I was to make a DD truck I drove in town all day I'd set it at 18* or so. Ah the joys of non-variable timing haha

[torkjunky]

Thanks I have it set at 25, I have 3 other trucks and 16 is what I have them on. So driving down the intestate at 25 will be OK ?

The motor does have studs and I lowered the compression a bit, have 5x11 injectors for now (what I had) with the timing set at 25, it has a 215 pump witch I have read retards timing 5* is that correct.

[CorneliusRox]

Yeah, 25 sounds good. I have my 180 at 21deg for daily driving and I like it but I'm probably going to bump it up a little to 23 or so.

It just depends on how often you find yourself past 2600rpm and wanting power.

[torkjunky]

What do you mean, 215 pump won't make power past 2600. I put a 4k gsk with 60 lb valve springs.

[DDually]

Hes just saying that's where the power would be with higher timing.

[torkjunky]

OK got it, power comes on later with timing.
another thing is where do I start with tuning once its on the road ?
I set the afc to be full open at 30 psi with flat washers and ground barrel #10 plate a little past half way and the afc ff. I want it to be as clean as I can make it.
Thanks for replies.

[DDually]

The tuning differs between each truck and how each person drives that truck. Start with the smoke screw on the back of the afc housing then start messing around with the star wheel. The smoke screw handles preboost fuel then the star wheel takes over after that. I would imagine you could supply full fuel before 30 psi and still run pretty clean but again that will just depend on your set up.

[DDually]

Also update your signature so your mods are correct.

[torkjunky]

Thanks I haven't added this truck yet, still working on it, but I will am getting close for test drive .

[CorneliusRox]

I would recommend blocking off your boost reference line, and sliding everything forward, then working your preboost fueling screw until it's perfect for you. After that, hook the boost reference back up and start messing with your star wheel. Once you have that perfect, if you're still a little smokey, you can just pull the housing back a little.

That's get you in the ballpark, and really close. You'll also be familiar with how changing these, changes the pump, and you'll be able to fine tune it.

I usually set full fuel to about 35psi though and set the preboost fueling screw pretty far back. Enough so I can get enough fuel to spool, but not enough to blacken the road.

[displacedtexan]

Full fuel shortly before max boost will run cleanest.

[Big Blue24]

With twins and larger injectors, I like to use a stock governor spring in place of the stock AFC/starwheel spring. With the starwheel set all the way loose or toward the front of the motor, I see full travel around 60-65 psi. This perfectly matches the boost range of a set of twins.

With your small 5x.011" injectors, you might be just fine with the 30 psi full travel setup.

This fairly clean dyno run is with 5x018" injectors, 024 delivery valves, maxed barrels, no plate, modded AFC, rack plug, 5.5k governor springs, etc. The key to the fairly clean setup is the fast spooling twins and the afc spring change.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPEvvLuRAWc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPEvvLuRAWc

[torkjunky]

Thanks for all the input. I drove it for the frist time today and ran really clean. I did not push it cause I don't have gauges yet but was pleased with the frist test, tuning will make it better once I get the motor broke in a little.

[CorneliusRox]

Will, gov springs are different per pump. You liked the 160 stock gov springs? I might have to try my stock 180s and see how I like it! I'm guessing the closest size wise out of the bunch?

[torkjunky]

I used what I think is an exhaust valve spring out of a 5 hp Briggs motor. I just started looking for a spring in my shop that was the right ID and OD that would fit the afc. I set it at 30psi full travel and the star wheel has alot of adustment both directions. I tried gs but it would coil bind, can't remember for sure what pump it was out of.

[torkjunky]

Once the engine is warm it will not come back to idle until you slow the engine with the clutch idles about 1250, is set at 900. Starts good without throttle input but faster start with input. Even free reving it seems slow to idle down. Could it be I have the governor spring a little tight or idle a bit fast.

[CorneliusRox]

Putting in Gov springs will raise your idle, so you have to adjust it again afterwards. I like to leave my gov springs loose, so I can set my idle low, but keep it very strong. I like being able to start it in winter without input, and have it idle at 750rpm in drive.

[torkjunky]

Thanks I think I will loosen the GS a click and see what that does. I never ran this pump before (came of an engine I bought) so I don't know how the idle was. I was just wondering if anyone else had this happen where it would not idle back down or slowly idle down.
Got some 3/4 ton front springs today so I'm gonna replace all balljoints, new shocks and have it aligned. So it will be a couple days before I can drive it again. Only get to work on it in the evenings.

[torkjunky]

I found out why the engine would not come back to idle sometimes. Was driving it today and noticed something going on i could fell it in the pedal. After inspection I noticed that the rod that goes from the front to the arm on the pump had striped threads and was moving in and out as I was accelerateing and was sicking somtimes. Took it off and repaired it, now all is well.