Powerstroke Cowboy
Boost is energy held back
I like Isspro gauges, I've got glowshift, and they are cheap.
International DT360 Swap in F350
- Thread starter ADaniel4573
- Start date
ADaniel4573
Member
Weekend update
Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend. Bunch of small miscellaneous things. I managed to get 90% of the electrical working, Welded a arm to the accelerator pedal for the throttle cable and all the brackets for my engine shut off pull cable. Went to a local junkyard to pull the buckets and hardware and bezzles for the sealed beam headlights I'm converting to
I'm dual purposing the stock accelerator pedal that came with this truck as my thottle position sensor, for the quick shift transmission controller i'm using. I dismantled the stock instrument cluster down to the circuit board, I'm just going to hide the circuit board behind the new instrument cluster I build. I'll have the board wrapped in a anti static bag, and I'll make some brackets to hold it secured in place.
I did take a quick look at the isspro and auto meter gauges, I'm going to have to take some more time and see what I can put together from them. I have heard mixed reviews of glowshift, sucks but I can see they are one of those you get what you pay for Is scenarios
Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend. Bunch of small miscellaneous things. I managed to get 90% of the electrical working, Welded a arm to the accelerator pedal for the throttle cable and all the brackets for my engine shut off pull cable. Went to a local junkyard to pull the buckets and hardware and bezzles for the sealed beam headlights I'm converting to
I'm dual purposing the stock accelerator pedal that came with this truck as my thottle position sensor, for the quick shift transmission controller i'm using. I dismantled the stock instrument cluster down to the circuit board, I'm just going to hide the circuit board behind the new instrument cluster I build. I'll have the board wrapped in a anti static bag, and I'll make some brackets to hold it secured in place.
I did take a quick look at the isspro and auto meter gauges, I'm going to have to take some more time and see what I can put together from them. I have heard mixed reviews of glowshift, sucks but I can see they are one of those you get what you pay for Is scenarios
Meyers Farms
Active member
Wondering the same thing.
ADaniel4573
Member
Aesthetics
Reason being more of an aesthetic appeal preference. I like the look of the sealed beam trucks more. For what im thinking i want to do for the hood modification, i dont think the truck would look right with the aero style housings. After the hood modification and the custom grill, the look of the truck is going to be a little more squared off. I think the sealed beam headlights will compliment the look better.
Buddy of mine bought a set of LED units for his sealed beam truck and they're pretty good, bright, been reliable so far and dont look too terrible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C48XKP/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams
Reason being more of an aesthetic appeal preference. I like the look of the sealed beam trucks more. For what im thinking i want to do for the hood modification, i dont think the truck would look right with the aero style housings. After the hood modification and the custom grill, the look of the truck is going to be a little more squared off. I think the sealed beam headlights will compliment the look better.
Buddy of mine bought a set of LED units for his sealed beam truck and they're pretty good, bright, been reliable so far and dont look too terrible.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C48XKP/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams
ADaniel4573
Member
Weekend update
Got the exhaust finished. Didn't go crazy with it. I used the 3.5" down pipe that came with the 360 with a series of cutting slicing and dicing. As soon as I could flatline the exhaust I went up to 4" for about 6' into a cherry bomb salute muffler. Right out of the muffler I Welded on a 4 to 5 reducer and clamped on a 5" 90 for a bed side exit kind of. Not sure if I'm going to get a tip, I'm pretty happy with how it is now. I ran the exhaust out and above the frame rail behind the wheel well liner, went down and ran between the frame and step bars. Got it tucked up really well, can't see any of it just walking around.
I wasn't happy with how my throttle "linkage" felt in the pedal. Really stiff and crunchy almost. So I started a full rework of the throttle assembly and I'm going with some actual linkage. What is in the pictures isn't finished product yet. Going to have to get a new cable, I can get some scrap 1/4" all thread from work to make a hard link from the throttle arm to the pivot arm
Also, got some new badges in for the truck gifted to me so I get those put on. Not a super progressive weekend but some is better than none. Ordering the gauges in a few days and stopping by the local machine shop to get an idea on what they want for measurements for my driveshafts
Got the exhaust finished. Didn't go crazy with it. I used the 3.5" down pipe that came with the 360 with a series of cutting slicing and dicing. As soon as I could flatline the exhaust I went up to 4" for about 6' into a cherry bomb salute muffler. Right out of the muffler I Welded on a 4 to 5 reducer and clamped on a 5" 90 for a bed side exit kind of. Not sure if I'm going to get a tip, I'm pretty happy with how it is now. I ran the exhaust out and above the frame rail behind the wheel well liner, went down and ran between the frame and step bars. Got it tucked up really well, can't see any of it just walking around.
I wasn't happy with how my throttle "linkage" felt in the pedal. Really stiff and crunchy almost. So I started a full rework of the throttle assembly and I'm going with some actual linkage. What is in the pictures isn't finished product yet. Going to have to get a new cable, I can get some scrap 1/4" all thread from work to make a hard link from the throttle arm to the pivot arm
Also, got some new badges in for the truck gifted to me so I get those put on. Not a super progressive weekend but some is better than none. Ordering the gauges in a few days and stopping by the local machine shop to get an idea on what they want for measurements for my driveshafts
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thatguy69
New member
Ah, the good ol scatter pattern.
ADaniel4573
Member
Powerstroke Cowboy
Boost is energy held back
Looks good! I'm not a big fan of cables. It looks good and should get the job done. The paint really made it all come together.
ADaniel4573
Member
First time I ever used something like that before, it was just an off the shelf Mr.Gasket universal cable I found at O'Reillys. If I end up having a problem with it in the future, what would you recommend?
thatguy69
New member
I used a vp throttle assembly and cable for mine,and then made an adapter plate that bolted it to the ppump. Then made a linkage simalar to yours with the two rod ends. Works great except the rod ends wear over time from the vibration of the pump, this slop messes with the idle but it's not a big deal.
Powerstroke Cowboy
Boost is energy held back
It'll work for you no problem. I might just be used to the ag end of things. Our "cables" are solid and not a braided wire cable. There plastic and around an 3/16 of an inch. But, they are designed to be set and held inplace. In your aplication a cable probably better. Quicker response and less chance of hanging up.
I believe oem is a cable right?
ADaniel4573
Member
Most oem applications are a cable. Difference really being that oem cables are made for that application so the ends are casted lead ends that lock in place. As opposed to mine where the ends are held on to the cable with a set screw
ADaniel4573
Member
Good progress this weekend
First issue i came to is fuel pressure started dropping. Long story short i discovered the issue with Fass filters which led me to do a fuel sample test which concluded to having over 25% of water in my tank. Fass filter did great with the separation. Fuel coming from the pump was clear and clean. In the tank, just a 24oz mason jars worth of fuel separated with 6oz of water in the bottom. So friday morning i dropped the tank, cleaned it and refilled it with fresh new fuel and cetane boosters.
Next thing i finished was the power steering system. I relocated the reservoir to the passenger side, extended the return lines and used and an line to for the pressure side from the pump to hydroboost.
Next i started the fab for the instrument cluster. Haven't hooked up the fuel sendong unit signal yet, nor the speedometer but everything else works and works very well. Im really happy with how it has come out so far.
Also picked up a set of ion alloy 16x10 wheels off marketplace. Got rhw final measurements for my driveshafts, going to take those up to Collins welding in Piney Green some time this week to go ahead and get my shafts shortened.
First issue i came to is fuel pressure started dropping. Long story short i discovered the issue with Fass filters which led me to do a fuel sample test which concluded to having over 25% of water in my tank. Fass filter did great with the separation. Fuel coming from the pump was clear and clean. In the tank, just a 24oz mason jars worth of fuel separated with 6oz of water in the bottom. So friday morning i dropped the tank, cleaned it and refilled it with fresh new fuel and cetane boosters.
Next thing i finished was the power steering system. I relocated the reservoir to the passenger side, extended the return lines and used and an line to for the pressure side from the pump to hydroboost.
Next i started the fab for the instrument cluster. Haven't hooked up the fuel sendong unit signal yet, nor the speedometer but everything else works and works very well. Im really happy with how it has come out so far.
Also picked up a set of ion alloy 16x10 wheels off marketplace. Got rhw final measurements for my driveshafts, going to take those up to Collins welding in Piney Green some time this week to go ahead and get my shafts shortened.
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ADaniel4573
Member
Need second opinion on electrical
This microprocessor battery saver relay instrument cluster shindig has shafted me once again and I'm a little tired of dealing with it. I provided an image to show what I'm talking about from the Ford manual I have. Anyone who is good with electrical can you give me a second opinion on my plan or be able to provide a better/ more easier plan?
I'm going to get rid of the instrument cluster circuit board entirely, I want to apply power to the light green / yellow wire on connector c270a via a switch or ignition switch and pull the light blue wire from connector c220b and permanently grounded somewhere. All I want is to retain my power windows and possibly retain the factory method for the radio. Radio isn't super important I can get power to a radio without an issue. Am I overthinking the f*** out of this? :bang :banghead:
This microprocessor battery saver relay instrument cluster shindig has shafted me once again and I'm a little tired of dealing with it. I provided an image to show what I'm talking about from the Ford manual I have. Anyone who is good with electrical can you give me a second opinion on my plan or be able to provide a better/ more easier plan?
I'm going to get rid of the instrument cluster circuit board entirely, I want to apply power to the light green / yellow wire on connector c270a via a switch or ignition switch and pull the light blue wire from connector c220b and permanently grounded somewhere. All I want is to retain my power windows and possibly retain the factory method for the radio. Radio isn't super important I can get power to a radio without an issue. Am I overthinking the f*** out of this? :bang :banghead:
ADaniel4573
Member
More updates
Past couple weekends I've been finishing a bunch to little things that needed to be done. Painting, sleeving wiring bundles, transmission cable brackets, fixed the pan leak that wouldn't stop (I had a set of old school valve cover spreader bars and put those on the pan which finally stopped the leak). I started working on the hood modification, it shuts completely now, got the hood pins installed. I started the "cowl" for the hood but the factory sheet metal is way too thin for my welder. So once I get the truck on the road I'm just going to drive to the sheet metal shop at my work and use there machine to make a cowl and rivet it to the hood.
Speaking of driving, I order the transmission controller and got the drive shaft shortened so the goal this up com8ng weekend is going to be getting the truck driving. Not road worthy but at least able to do some putting around the block. Truck still needs tires, inspection, new front leaf springs and a track bar bushing.
Past couple weekends I've been finishing a bunch to little things that needed to be done. Painting, sleeving wiring bundles, transmission cable brackets, fixed the pan leak that wouldn't stop (I had a set of old school valve cover spreader bars and put those on the pan which finally stopped the leak). I started working on the hood modification, it shuts completely now, got the hood pins installed. I started the "cowl" for the hood but the factory sheet metal is way too thin for my welder. So once I get the truck on the road I'm just going to drive to the sheet metal shop at my work and use there machine to make a cowl and rivet it to the hood.
Speaking of driving, I order the transmission controller and got the drive shaft shortened so the goal this up com8ng weekend is going to be getting the truck driving. Not road worthy but at least able to do some putting around the block. Truck still needs tires, inspection, new front leaf springs and a track bar bushing.
comotionman
New member
Post up some pics of the hood shut, so we can see what's sticking out. I've got a dt360 project on the backburner, mines going in an old dodge with an fso behind it. I'm doing a serpentine conversion with mechanical fan relocation to stay underhood. .
ADaniel4573
Member
I will definitely get some more pictures than this one but just with how I laid things out, the only things sticking about is about 4-5 inches about the stock hood. So almost level with the wiper cowl.
If you're considering fabbing up something to lower the fan, i pasted around in my head a few times using a maxxforce 466 fan pulley bracket and mounting it on the plate I made on the front of my motor. Didn't do it because I was already sold and OK with the hood mods
If you're considering fabbing up something to lower the fan, i pasted around in my head a few times using a maxxforce 466 fan pulley bracket and mounting it on the plate I made on the front of my motor. Didn't do it because I was already sold and OK with the hood mods
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ADaniel4573
Member
Hood pictures for comotionman
What you see here is a 350 with a 2.5" leveling, no body lift (maybe in the future i will do one) radiator is mounted with a custom square tube top rack and its sitting a 4" pieces of 3/4 black pipe into the factory mounting bushings. I reused the factory 6.0 fan shroud, the intercooler is raised up equally in perspective with the radiator and the trans cooler is mounted in the factory location. I do not have a condenser coil. From the factory the cooling coil group deal sits at a angle, my set up has the coil group straight up and down.
Shout out to Cowboys for calling me out on the dryer vent hose i had, i finally went and got the 4" aluminum tube and got the suction side of the air intake finished.
I picked up my driveshaft from my local shop today and got it installed, if anyone is in Pineygreen NC and needs some driveshaft work done. Collins Welding is amazing, the man will get you taken care of
Transmission controller also came in today, i went with a USShift quick 2, going to get that installed along with the new 2.5" leveling kit tomorrow. Truck is most likely going to drive Saturday night or at most sunday. A bit nervous :woohoo:
What you see here is a 350 with a 2.5" leveling, no body lift (maybe in the future i will do one) radiator is mounted with a custom square tube top rack and its sitting a 4" pieces of 3/4 black pipe into the factory mounting bushings. I reused the factory 6.0 fan shroud, the intercooler is raised up equally in perspective with the radiator and the trans cooler is mounted in the factory location. I do not have a condenser coil. From the factory the cooling coil group deal sits at a angle, my set up has the coil group straight up and down.
Shout out to Cowboys for calling me out on the dryer vent hose i had, i finally went and got the 4" aluminum tube and got the suction side of the air intake finished.
I picked up my driveshaft from my local shop today and got it installed, if anyone is in Pineygreen NC and needs some driveshaft work done. Collins Welding is amazing, the man will get you taken care of
Transmission controller also came in today, i went with a USShift quick 2, going to get that installed along with the new 2.5" leveling kit tomorrow. Truck is most likely going to drive Saturday night or at most sunday. A bit nervous :woohoo:
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