6.0 cranks but will not start!!!

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by 6.4 F-350

Did you ever pull the other valve cover to make sure there isn't a secondary problem? And I don't understand why it won't fire on either, it should at least start.

Not yet but I air tested the high pressure pump with ipr energized and had no leaks but I think I'll pull the other cover tommorow if I can't see anything else

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by bobcat67

HPOP? i know in some cases they cause a no start symptom, icp sensor and ipr valve too, I'd replace them both, cause it sounds like you're into it now

I do see good icp pressure with my gauge goes strait to 500+ psi but if I don't see any problems under my other valve cover tommorow Iam going to check ipr

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by 6.4 F-350

Not good, you need to disable your glow plugs and intake heater if you are going to use either. I am not sure if the 6.0's have a intake heater like the 7.3's. But I would check or just wait until your wait to start light goes out.

I actually unplugged both glow plug harnesses from the gpcm. But either didn't help me at all so no sense in trying it more and hurting the engine I guess LoL

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by LReiff

IPRs usually only fail because the HPOP is failing and throwing crap into the reg, same goes for the ICP sensor. HPOPs fail when the screen under the engine oil cooler fails, allowing dirt to enter the HPOP.
If a failure is detected as crap on the reg I always replace the HPOP, IPR, ICP and screen. Most times I also update the engine oil cooler while it's out. 90% of the time the injectors need replaced due to mileage or wear and the standpipes, rail plugs and FPR get updated. Engine oil always gets changed to 5W40 syn., Motorcraft filters installed & 2 bottles of Rev-X oil additive.
Change the oil filter every 5k miles and engine oil, fuel filters + 2 bottles of Rev-X every 10K miles.
If the root cause of failure is fixed every time they seem to stay together quite well.

Thanks that's very good to know

[richsdieselperf]

I was cranking and I got a po337 ckp code so I pulled out the crank sensor it looks ok but has .610K ohms of resistance that might be to high so Iam going to get a sensor from Ford tommorow.

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by bobcat67

and a buddy of mine owns a shop and the 6.0's pretty much could keep him in business pretty easily, and a customer of his had this happen to him right after he installed an egr delete and the basics, IPR said it was functioning properly, still no start, then he kept trying it, and it would never go, so he just replaced the IPR and sure enough it fired right up, I'm not saying it's your problem, but he now replaces the IPR every time and EGR delete is performed

wow thats wild even tho he saw good icp pressure? it really seems like all that is working fine for me via scan tool and even with a gauge in the oil rail, but the ipr and icp are bout to get changed if i cant fix this dam thing tommorow!

[GRotman]

STC fitting? Take out the icp sensor and pressurize the system with shop air to find the leak.

[Six_leaker]

Icp should go to 1800 psi cranking with a healthy hpo system.

Also check rpm while cranking.

[Swamp Star]

Originally Posted by LReiff

IPRs usually only fail because the HPOP is failing and throwing crap into the reg, same goes for the ICP sensor. HPOPs fail when the screen under the engine oil cooler fails, allowing dirt to enter the HPOP.
If a failure is detected as crap on the reg I always replace the HPOP, IPR, ICP and screen. Most times I also update the engine oil cooler while it's out. 90% of the time the injectors need replaced due to mileage or wear and the standpipes, rail plugs and FPR get updated. Engine oil always gets changed to 5W40 syn., Motorcraft filters installed & 2 bottles of Rev-X oil additive.
Change the oil filter every 5k miles and engine oil, fuel filters + 2 bottles of Rev-X every 10K miles.
If the root cause of failure is fixed every time they seem to stay together quite well.

Said it before I got back to it.

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by GRotman

STC fitting? Take out the icp sensor and pressurize the system with shop air to find the leak.

I did and had no leaks with ipr commanded at 25 %

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by Six_leaker

Icp should go to 1800 psi cranking with a healthy hpo system.

Also check rpm while cranking.

Ive seen 1500 psi whie cranking and rpm is around 185 while cranking

[richsdieselperf]

Well this morning I changed out my icp and ipr and found NO damage to ipr screen, and I changed out my crank sensor but still no luck at all

[Swamp Star]

Im stumped. You have changed everything that causes a no start issue

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by Swamp Star

Im stumped. You have changed everything that causes a no start issue

Yeah tell me about it.

[LReiff]

What's fuel pressure?

[richsdieselperf]

Originally Posted by LReiff

What's fuel pressure?

Fuel pressure while cranking was 48psi.

[Swamp Star]

Compression maybe?

[Six_leaker]

Can you here injectors buzz when you flip key on?

[J.Keith]

Was the surface of the block clean where the cam sensor seats? They can develop enough corrosion to move the sensor far enough out to cause a no start. Had a couple like this.

[matty169]

Remove serp belt and try to start it. Takes 2 minutes. If it starts, measure amp draw from AC compressor. Starter might be tired, you should see 200 cranking rpm to start.