Info on 2001 12v swap

79powerwagon

79powerwagon

New member
I am looking for some info on swapping a 12v into my 2001 24v. NV5600.

Engine is in but I can't seem to find much info on what I need to do with the cam sensor/apps. Most threads I find are related to the early 24v.

I am using the 12v cam so I can have the mechanical piston pump.

Sounds like without the 24v cam sensor the alternator/ac/tach won't work?

Has anyone made the 24v cam sensor work with the 12v?(without a cam/gear swap) Or am I going to have to set up an external regulator and something to control the AC?


And is the APPS needed for anything being I have a manual trans?

Thank you

Sam

WCrhVBm.jpg
 
Ppump 24v conversions typically use the 24v cam gear for the tone teeth correct?

I am trying to use the 12v cam/gear.

I guess I am wondering if anyone has made the cam sensor work without having the tone teeth on the cam gear. A custom tone wheel on The crank possibly?
 
Yes, get a the correct cam gear and cam sensor adapter. Or figure out what the window count is for the cam gear and if anyone has a tone wheel that is the same.
 
jlbayes said:
. Or figure out what the window count is for the cam gear and if anyone has a tone wheel that is the same.
Click to expand...

That is what I would prefer.

Since cam rotates 1 revolution for every 2 crank revolutions, would half the number of windows from the cam gear work for a tone wheel on the crank?

Thanks for the help.
 
Ah crap good point. Or find someone with a tone wheel off an earlier crank 98.5-00. That would be the correct pulse as well.
 
The sensor won't care as it is just picking up the pulse or collapse of the field as the tone goes by. Look at the destroked tone wheels. What they use on the Cummins swaps.
 
jlbayes said:
The sensor won't care as it is just picking up the pulse or collapse of the field as the tone goes by. Look at the destroked tone wheels. What they use on the Cummins swaps.
Click to expand...

Right. Sounds like the tach won't be accurate but that really doesn't matter much to me.

I'll try to fab something up

Thanks again
 
So I used a 35-1 tooth tone wheel for a ford application, mounted to the fan pulley (was intended to be temporary)

The tach will read for about 10 seconds then drop to 0. Adjusting Sensor air gap does not change this. Alternator kicks on after a couple seconds and seems to work fine.

ECM not that stupid? Does it really need to see the 60-something windows in order for the tach to function?

Maybe I should have just swapped the cam gear :bang
 

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79powerwagon said:
So I used a 35-1 tooth tone wheel for a ford application, mounted to the fan pulley (was intended to be temporary)

The tach will read for about 10 seconds then drop to 0. Adjusting Sensor air gap does not change this. Alternator kicks on after a couple seconds and seems to work fine.

ECM not that stupid? Does it really need to see the 60-something windows in order for the tach to function?

Maybe I should have just swapped the cam gear :bang
Click to expand...
Although it does a couple jobs, that sensor is actually a cam position sensor - meaning it's used for timing. The original 24V cam gear with the windows has one missing window that corresponds with TDC. I believe without that window, the computer is not seeing TDC position and is trying to shut off the engine, hence why the tach quits after a few seconds. Fill in one gap on your tone wheel and you'll be golden.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
Headbolts are 12.9 socket head bolts

This is the tone wheel I used. It does have the missing tooth. Or are you saying I should have one wide tooth instead of a wide window?
 

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OK - I see what you're saying now. The original cam gear does have a sort of "wide tooth".


Thanks for pointing that out. Hopefully that takes care of it!
 
We will see. Don't have many hard miles on them yet. At $100 they seemed like a decent option for a sub 500hp truck. I torqued them to 130 with moly lube, though the longer six for the pedestals got 110.

I had some issues with twisting off new headbolts in a 3306 CAT with the loctite moly lube and didn't want to push it
 
I believe you need this tone wheel. It's made to mount to the crank in front of the damper.

Tach Kit

attachment.php


Another issue with your setup is the fan hub turns faster than the crank so you're not going to get an accurate engine RPM from the fan pulley no matter what tone wheel you use.

Here's a good look at the tone wheel in the cam gear from an '01. If it didn't have the gap it would have 60 teeth, hence the 60-2 on the Destroked tone wheel.

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Yes I looked into that wheel, just trying to make my own setup.

Someone at destroked recommended the 36-1 wheel I believe.

The fan mounted wheel was meant to be temporary to at least get it charging.

The issue is that the cam spins half what the crank does.

The other issue as pointed out by cowboyedition is that the factory tone wheel does not have teeth, it has slots. Basically my tone wheel needs to have one wide tooth instead of a wide gap.
 
79powerwagon said:
The issue is that the cam spins half what the crank does.
Click to expand...

You're right there. I forgot about that. I had to deal with the crank sensor on mine, so it was 1:1. With the crank turning 2:1 to the cam the 36-1 on the crank would be correct.

As to the teeth vs. spaces, it's the same difference, however, cowboyedition may be correct on the solid portion vs. the open portion on the tone wheel. It's definitely worth a try. You could always grind it back out if it didn't work.

If I knew the diameter of the fan pulley and the damper pulley I could tell you the ratio on it.
 
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