6.0 cranks but will not start!!!

I got one in the shop with 14,500 miles on a new hpop. It started to start hard like high pressure oil was slow building so I put a mechanical guages on it to verify it. Then I pulled the reg and found a large piece of metal stuck in the screen. I never trust the scan tool to verify high pressure oil when cranking.
 
LReiff said:
I got one in the shop with 14,500 miles on a new hpop. It started to start hard like high pressure oil was slow building so I put a mechanical guages on it to verify it. Then I pulled the reg and found a large piece of metal stuck in the screen. I never trust the scan tool to verify high pressure oil when cranking.
Click to expand...

I did Verify with a gauge and even tried a new regulator still broke I need to buy a Ids if anyone wants to sell one
 
I FOUND the problem
I checked compression on cylinder number 8 and have none at all. When the injector bolts broke the injector must have burnt a hole in the piston
And it won't start now so I need a new engine!
 
2 maybe, not 1. other cylinders must be low also. My ol 7.3 would run with 1 bank unplugged running on 4
 
That cant be the only problem.......

You can disable either entire bank and they still run. One dead cylinder causing a no-start can really only happen with a shorted injector or wiring, which we have seen. On the contribution test you regularly shut off injectors to find problems. If your injector is not seated correctly and you are pushing cylinder pressure into your fuel supply you can cause a no-start.
Forget a copper washer or have 2 in that hole?
Take a glow plug and knock the center out of it. Braze a shop air fitting onto the threaded part and apply shop air to that cylinder with the valves closed on that cylinder. Where do you hear air? Exhaust, intake(pull egr valve), or crank case? This will narrow down exhaust or intake valves or burnt/cracked piston or rings. Got a bore scope?
 
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matty169 said:
You can disable either entire bank and they still run. One dead cylinder causing a no-start can really only happen with a shorted injector or wiring, which we have seen. On the contribution test you regularly shut off injectors to find problems. If your injector is not seated correctly and you are pushing cylinder pressure into your fuel supply you can cause a no-start.
Forget a copper washer or have 2 in that hole?
Take a glow plug and knock the center out of it. Braze a shop air fitting onto the threaded part and apply shop air to that cylinder with the valves closed on that cylinder. Where do you hear air? Exhaust, intake(pull egr valve), or crank case? This will narrow down exhaust or intake valves or burnt/cracked piston or rings. Got a bore scope?
Click to expand...

Matt what happenec with the ids? Any way I pulled the other glow plugs on that side and they were Preety low to 340 was the highest and I put air to number 8 and pulled the push rods out and had air coming out the pcv and oil fill cap.
 
IDS

Sorry, didnt get it out before we left for racing. Just got back Saturday. I might sell one, thinking about Ebaying it.
 
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