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Old 01-18-2008, 06:11 AM   #21
Mo Smoke
 
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I got this one from Summit Racing and if it will hold a full dressed 7.3 PowerStroke without bending, it held a full dressed 5.9Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by Mo Smoke; 01-18-2008 at 06:21 AM.
 
Old 01-18-2008, 07:39 AM   #22
gwhammy

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I built one using 4 inch square tubing 6 inch channel for the base and schedule 40 pipe for the turning head. If you got someone to weld it don't take long and will hold up well. The head will fit the engine stand and the one mounted permanant on a column in my shop. I did make the plate to go on the motor mount as it looked like it would hang way to far out off of the back
I had the iron but almost all of it can be got out of the short racks the steel suppliers keep on hand.
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Old 01-18-2008, 07:47 AM   #23
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I can say this, a 1500lb OTC engine stand that was rock solid with a 6.0 PS on it buckled the support and the engine plate with a 5.9 CR. both were hung from the side. I'm going to cut it up and make a stand with the 2 brace supports
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Old 01-18-2008, 07:58 AM   #24
Mo Smoke
 
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6.0l have more aluminum than a 7.3l (heads are 120lbs each) ouch....
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:22 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2001shrtbedcmns
didn't even notice the 4 cylinder. Think the loss of weight will negate the loss of power?
I'm all about being different . Just look at my truck.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo Smoke
I got this one from Summit Racing and if it will hold a full dressed 7.3 PowerStroke without bending, it held a full dressed 5.9Click the image to open in full size.
That just looks a little precarious to me...

Click the image to open in full size.

Seems like a lot of strain on that thing at it's swivel point. But if it held I guess that's all that matters!
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:19 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwhammy
I built one using 4 inch square tubing 6 inch channel for the base and schedule 40 pipe for the turning head. If you got someone to weld it don't take long and will hold up well. The head will fit the engine stand and the one mounted permanant on a column in my shop. I did make the plate to go on the motor mount as it looked like it would hang way to far out off of the back
I had the iron but almost all of it can be got out of the short racks the steel suppliers keep on hand.


I'm liking all the info guys! I'm leaning pretty hard at this point towards Frankenstein-ing my current stand and making a two post style stand. I can see myself putting the fan belt on and hearing *snap* and watching it fall to the floor.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:59 AM   #28
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I've got the same stand that Mo Smoke posted and I've had a fully decked out IH DTI-466 on it but after the head went on I tried to have some support under the front of the engine as much as possible. I've got a DT-414 to rebuild in a couple of weeks but this time I am going to rebuild my stand to better handle the weight. I'm going to cut off the engine mount that's on it and build a new one which will be attached to 2" solid round bar mounted in roller bearings and I've got a worm drive gear box that will drive the engine mount with a #60 roller chain. I'm also going to extend the legs out a few inches to better balance the longer diesel engines. If it works out right I'll have less than $150 in modifying it so it will still be alot cheaper than anything else I've found capable of safely and easily handling that big of an engine, I'd love to have one of the OTC stands but they cost 10x as much as I'll have in mine.
 
Old 01-18-2008, 12:43 PM   #29
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If you look at the pic with the motor hanging on it you will see that the tube has over 1/4" of space around it and when you hang a 3' motor on it it it will lift on the rear where the handle is and dip at the motor..I have full confidence in it.
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Old 01-18-2008, 03:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo Smoke
6.0l have more aluminum than a 7.3l (heads are 120lbs each) ouch....
6.0 heads are not aluminum, just the rocker boxes. over 100lbs each ship weight on naked heads.
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:22 PM   #31
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i bought one from Harbor Freight Tools...it looks exactly like the one in the first picture....and a buddy of mine and i just put my Common Rail motor on it with the pump and everything on it and we rolled it over with just a small cheater bar over the small bar ......worked great though
 
Old 01-23-2008, 01:56 PM   #32
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Here is how mine turned out. The gear box and bearings along with the sprockets came from www.surpluscenter.com and I've got less than $150 in the modifications using some scrap steel. The gearbox is a 35:1 ratio worm drive which should have plenty of power to turn over a heavy block.

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Old 01-23-2008, 02:26 PM   #33
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First one works. I've got a couple of those, and they will hold more weight than a dressed Dmax. However, difficult to impossible to rotate engine safely. I put a strap around to the lift when I rotate just to be safe.

Second one would be better.

Third one, not a chance. You might even dump it moving around the shop. You need a wide footprint.
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