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Old 05-27-2018, 09:13 AM   #1
RockinRam96
 
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48re Trans Problems

So I was going down the road the today, went to accelerate and all of the sudden my trans just popped, nothing real violent just like it was out in neutral. No I have no gears what so ever. Does absolutely nothing, even with increased RPMs.

No fluid running out of it and is properly full of fluid. Fluid looks pink and smells fresh.

Any insight?


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Old 05-27-2018, 09:16 AM   #2
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You broke a shaft.
 
Old 05-27-2018, 09:20 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComnRailPwr View Post
You broke a shaft.


That was kind of my fear. Input shaft? Or without it being apart, could it be any of them?


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Old 05-27-2018, 09:24 AM   #4
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Could be any of them but most likely to be input. Possibly output but a stock input will break before a stock output. If intermediate broke then that means some bad chit happened or the truck is not near stock so that's unlikely.
 
Old 05-27-2018, 09:35 AM   #5
RockinRam96
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ComnRailPwr View Post
Could be any of them but most likely to be input. Possibly output but a stock input will break before a stock output. If intermediate broke then that means some bad chit happened or the truck is not near stock so that's unlikely.


The only thing the truck has is a Edge tuner. Other than that it’s completely stock...

Can the input be changed with out tearing the whole trans apart or does it have to be completely torn down?


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Old 05-27-2018, 09:48 AM   #6
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It has to be torn into. Not completely torn down but front drums, valve body, pump, pan and front band linkage needs removed. I don'tmess with them a lot but that's what I remember.
 
Old 05-27-2018, 10:07 AM   #7
jasonc

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If a 47re is the same shaft, I have a billit stock diameter shaft that's perfect, no twist, Went to a fat input. I'm pretty sure it's a tcs America shaft. $300 plus ship
 
Old 05-27-2018, 10:11 AM   #8
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Agreed. Sounds like input shaft.

If you are going through the trouble of pulling the trans, mine as well change out clutches, new 2nd gear band, and servos. Almost a waste of a trans pull if you change only the broken shaft. IMO.
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:24 AM   #9
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Does it hold in park ? If so that rules out the output shaft
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:58 AM   #10
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I didn’t think of ruling out the input if it held in park. It does hold in park.

I kind of figured it’d mostly have to be torn down to take out the input shaft. It can never be that easy.

I think I will just have the whole thing rebuilt. No sense in only rebuilding part of it. Would love to do it myself. But should probably have someone that knows what they’re doing rebuild it...


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Old 05-27-2018, 03:08 PM   #11
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My wifes truck did almost the same thing minus any type of noise just like it was in neutral. I have the trans out and partially torn down an now I'm wondering if it could just be the filter. I'll start my own thread. Interested to see what is the problem in both cases.
 
Old 05-27-2018, 04:41 PM   #12
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I would bet on broken input. Hopefully for you it just stripped the splines of the hub out or broke clean down in. It gets expensive when the break up towards the converter.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by megastang View Post
My wifes truck did almost the same thing minus any type of noise just like it was in neutral. I have the trans out and partially torn down an now I'm wondering if it could just be the filter. I'll start my own thread. Interested to see what is the problem in both cases.

I was thinking about draining the fluid, 1. To see what it looks like and if there is any metal in the pan and 2. To check out the filter and valve body.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YoungDiesel27 View Post
I would bet on broken input. Hopefully for you it just stripped the splines of the hub out or broke clean down in. It gets expensive when the break up towards the converter.

Is there a way to check the input shaft through the inspection plate? Will the torque converter be spinning if the shaft is broken. It must spin when on gear or in neutral under normal conditions, correct?



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Old 05-29-2018, 06:08 AM   #14
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No way to check for broken input with trans in the truck from my knowledge. Converter will spin with engine off, but has some drag. If it spins very freely, good sign of broken input.

I usually turn my converter/ring gear with a small pry bar for installing the converter bolts. It has decent drag.
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Old 05-29-2018, 08:22 PM   #15
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Pulled the transmission pan on my truck tonight to see if there was anything major in the fluid or the pan. Everything looked pretty normal. Fluid was a little dark but no metal or pieces...

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


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Old 05-30-2018, 07:15 AM   #16
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Looks normal to me. Time to drop the transmission and dig deeper.
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Old 05-30-2018, 09:01 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
Looks normal to me. Time to drop the transmission and dig deeper.


I’m hoping no metal in the pan can rule out intermediate shaft?


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Old 06-01-2018, 09:53 AM   #18
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I am really considering rebuilding this trans myself. I have a shop service manual and I have watched a few YouTube videos and it does not look like a difficult job. Like everything, the way it comes apart it goes back together. There doesn't seem to be any specific tooling needed but a press for the OD, which I have access to.

One thing I do need schooling on how to build this trans (stock vs performance). I would like to plan for higher power levels (800 hp max), but don't know how building it for that power level now will act in a stock-ish motor (only adders I currently have is a Edge programmer). The only thing I intend on doing at those hp levels is possibly drag racing once in a while. Was looking on Firepunkd website. Was thinking about the middle of the road rebuild kit with billet shafts, the reman triple disc torque converter and their high pressure valve body. Thoughts?

Thanks for the insight.
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:56 PM   #19
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That’s probably a real good decision honestly. Firepunk didn’t offer “kits” when I built mine, otherwise I would have purchased one. You’re doing it right by using a kit from them. All billet shafts, servos, anchor, strut, wiring harness, OD spring snap ring (if it’s not broken yet, it will break)

Follow your manual and take your time. It’s not rocket science. PML has very reasonably priced deep pan if you need one.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:08 PM   #20
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Got the trans pulled tonight. This doesn’t seem normal to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_XYKQROgcY


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