Death Wobble

Chassisman said:
If he did that on a CNC lathe you wouldn't see machining grooves/ lines in it since it would be fed at a steady rate. I have some parts that I made on a CNC lathe 20 years ago and the surface is so smooth, it's like it was polished... there is no rust, or oxidation even on them. Assuming he programmed in the correct feed and speed. Today's software does it for you, but some of the old or cheap software you might have to set the parameters yourself.
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Not true if the carriege was in gear running off the screws like I'm sure it was. He just needed to turn up the spindle rpms and slow down the carriege for a mirror finish. You'd be surprised what you can do on a 80+ year old machine.
 
well yea, even then I'd expect to see a more uniform finish. That doesn't happen when you're trying to sneak up on a dimension.

What's not true?
 
Chassisman said:
If he did that on a CNC lathe you wouldn't see machining grooves/ lines in it since it would be fed at a steady rate. I have some parts that I made on a CNC lathe 20 years ago and the surface is so smooth, it's like it was polished... there is no rust, or oxidation even on them. Assuming he programmed in the correct feed and speed. Today's software does it for you, but some of the old or cheap software you might have to set the parameters yourself.
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You’re obviously a master machinist. My apologies for thinking I had worthy comment to contribute in this thread.


Rox, my experience with Johnny Joints has been positive. We’ve run them on link arms connecting to the vehicle frame in off-road application thinking they would help isolate noise. I feel they did justice when compared to a heim joint.
 
Chassisman said:
Trail-Gear Weld-On Creeper Joint Kits 303892-KIT - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
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Dang, this is a good price. Nice find!

thatguy69 said:
Not true if the carriege was in gear running off the screws like I'm sure it was. He just needed to turn up the spindle rpms and slow down the carriege for a mirror finish. You'd be surprised what you can do on a 80+ year old machine.
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This right here.
I was spinning pretty fast, but not quite as fast as a carbide bit recommends and that's because I was taking pretty aggressive cuts. I wasn't using the sharpest carbide bit, but I didn't have a replacement on hand (or I was too lazy to go look for one). I'm sure I could take my time and make it look perfect, but I just don't have the time for that.

Red Sleeper said:
Rox, my experience with Johnny Joints has been positive. We’ve run them on link arms connecting to the vehicle frame in off-road application thinking they would help isolate noise. I feel they did justice when compared to a heim joint.
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Yeah, I'm pretty set on making something that works with the OEM track bar, but if I'm not satisfied with it, I'll definitely be trying some weld on joints and bending up a new bar. And if it's too noisy, I'll keep working on things until I get it where I want it. :Cheer:
 
Red Sleeper said:
You’re obviously a master machinist. My apologies for thinking I had worthy comment to contribute in this thread.


Rox, my experience with Johnny Joints has been positive. We’ve run them on link arms connecting to the vehicle frame in off-road application thinking they would help isolate noise. I feel they did justice when compared to a heim joint.
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Take it easy, I wasn't trying to be disrespectful. Those CNC lathes are a trip to watch. The chuck speeds up when you get closer to the bore center to maintain the same surface finish as the OD... they really haul buns!
 
Well, life got me busy and this took about an extra two months to finish, but I turned down the bushings/compression limiters and pressed everything into the track bar yesterday. Today I tossed it into my truck and put some miles on it.
I am VERY happy with it! I have almost no steering wheel slop, and entering a turn feel a lot closer to a car than a big truck. I also have no extra noticeable noise in the cab, and the bushings don't seem to squeak any.
I'm going to see how these hold up and I'll report back if there's any issues, but so far it's been a huge improvement in handling!

Here's the bushing and compression limiter. I decided not to do a nice finishing pass on the compression limiter thinking the rough cut might help it hold onto the bushing a little more.
47983546347_e02760ca08_z.jpg


Here's the assembly pressed together and into the OEM track bar:
47983545077_2014810803_z.jpg

47983545732_e1b87b3ae5_z.jpg


Here's finished product with a quick sand blast, primer, and paint:
47983546293_4194dc2a84_z.jpg

47983593241_cd521a4732_z.jpg
 
Chassisman said:
nice, I hope that lasts awhile for you!
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x2. How long it lasts is the question. I live down a dirt road with really fine dust (makes it past my door seals). I know dust could be an embedment/degradation issue and that's why I added some extra pre-load and put a thick layer of primer/paint over them.

Otherwise, I've got about 300 miles on them now and I am really happy with how the truck is handling. It feels like it has about 80% less steering wheel slop!
 
This is the out come of my last death wobble
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My steering gear box shaft where pitman arm connects snapped in half
 
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You added a small picture of a video file. Try uploading it to youtube, then toss the youtube link in here with the "s" removed from the "https".
 
Soooooo...... this is relevant to my interests. Truck is an 03 RCLB with 2.5" spacers up front, 275 road tires on 18's.

Past few years I've been having some serious, infrequent, death wobble. Year ago I did 2nd design steering upgrade, all new ball joints, poly trac bar bushings, new sway bar end links. Had DW one time pulling an enclosed trailer a few months later, chocked it up to a less than ideal tongue weight .....Then last saturday morning had it again, bad enough to shake off the power steering reservoir cap. Started while crossing some uneven pavement at ~70mph.

Did the 'eyeball' test on the trac bar and steering, no noticeable movement other than some minimal bushing squish.

Been planning on ditching the spacers and going to an OEM length shock (I have new MonoMax shocks, havent installed on front yet), and then see how it drives after realignment. **** sux
 
Yeah you can pull that front traction bar and replace those bushings it’ll help plus check the stabilizer/dampener shocks on steering. But I’ve heard some one had a fix for it with an aftermarket traction bar that’s adjustable. I wander how come this hasn’t been a recall.


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Chassisman said:
death wobble is most often caused by the trac bar far more than anything else.
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x2

I'd go with new bushings (not heim joints, they don't last to the environment on a street driven truck) and toss a new steering stabilizer on there. I like the Rancho RS7000MT steering stabilizer personally. Doing those two things should get rid of your wobble.

It'd also be worth a look through the full system.
Steering gear box (needs a rebuild, or better bracing to the frame)
Drag link (no play at all when moving left to right, any play means it's time to replace)
Tie rod ends (no play at all, and 0.08deg toe in)
Hubs (no play at all)
Ball joints (no play at all)
Control arm bushings (no visible movement when jacking up truck)
Caster (around 2.5-3.5deg will keep the truck wanting to go straight, often you can bias it towards the road crown which helps for towing)
 
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