6.0 cranks but will not start!!!

6.4 F-350 said:
Did you ever pull the other valve cover to make sure there isn't a secondary problem? And I don't understand why it won't fire on either, it should at least start.
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Not yet but I air tested the high pressure pump with ipr energized and had no leaks but I think I'll pull the other cover tommorow if I can't see anything else
 
bobcat67 said:
HPOP? i know in some cases they cause a no start symptom, icp sensor and ipr valve too, I'd replace them both, cause it sounds like you're into it now
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I do see good icp pressure with my gauge goes strait to 500+ psi but if I don't see any problems under my other valve cover tommorow Iam going to check ipr
 
6.4 F-350 said:
Not good, you need to disable your glow plugs and intake heater if you are going to use either. I am not sure if the 6.0's have a intake heater like the 7.3's. But I would check or just wait until your wait to start light goes out.
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I actually unplugged both glow plug harnesses from the gpcm. But either didn't help me at all so no sense in trying it more and hurting the engine I guess LoL
 
LReiff said:
IPRs usually only fail because the HPOP is failing and throwing crap into the reg, same goes for the ICP sensor. HPOPs fail when the screen under the engine oil cooler fails, allowing dirt to enter the HPOP.
If a failure is detected as crap on the reg I always replace the HPOP, IPR, ICP and screen. Most times I also update the engine oil cooler while it's out. 90% of the time the injectors need replaced due to mileage or wear and the standpipes, rail plugs and FPR get updated. Engine oil always gets changed to 5W40 syn., Motorcraft filters installed & 2 bottles of Rev-X oil additive.
Change the oil filter every 5k miles and engine oil, fuel filters + 2 bottles of Rev-X every 10K miles.
If the root cause of failure is fixed every time they seem to stay together quite well.
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Thanks that's very good to know
 
I was cranking and I got a po337 ckp code so I pulled out the crank sensor it looks ok but has .610K ohms of resistance that might be to high so Iam going to get a sensor from Ford tommorow.
 
bobcat67 said:
and a buddy of mine owns a shop and the 6.0's pretty much could keep him in business pretty easily, and a customer of his had this happen to him right after he installed an egr delete and the basics, IPR said it was functioning properly, still no start, then he kept trying it, and it would never go, so he just replaced the IPR and sure enough it fired right up, I'm not saying it's your problem, but he now replaces the IPR every time and EGR delete is performed
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wow thats wild even tho he saw good icp pressure? it really seems like all that is working fine for me via scan tool and even with a gauge in the oil rail, but the ipr and icp are bout to get changed if i cant fix this dam thing tommorow!*bdh*
 
Icp should go to 1800 psi cranking with a healthy hpo system.

Also check rpm while cranking.
 
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LReiff said:
IPRs usually only fail because the HPOP is failing and throwing crap into the reg, same goes for the ICP sensor. HPOPs fail when the screen under the engine oil cooler fails, allowing dirt to enter the HPOP.
If a failure is detected as crap on the reg I always replace the HPOP, IPR, ICP and screen. Most times I also update the engine oil cooler while it's out. 90% of the time the injectors need replaced due to mileage or wear and the standpipes, rail plugs and FPR get updated. Engine oil always gets changed to 5W40 syn., Motorcraft filters installed & 2 bottles of Rev-X oil additive.
Change the oil filter every 5k miles and engine oil, fuel filters + 2 bottles of Rev-X every 10K miles.
If the root cause of failure is fixed every time they seem to stay together quite well.
Click to expand...

Said it before I got back to it.
 
Well this morning I changed out my icp and ipr and found NO damage to ipr screen, and I changed out my crank sensor but still no luck at all
 
Was the surface of the block clean where the cam sensor seats? They can develop enough corrosion to move the sensor far enough out to cause a no start. Had a couple like this.
 
Got a amp clamp?

Remove serp belt and try to start it. Takes 2 minutes. If it starts, measure amp draw from AC compressor. Starter might be tired, you should see 200 cranking rpm to start.
 
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