Brakes

[cumins01]

This maybe a stupid question but here goes. Since the new 3.0 smooth bore rules say no rear brakes I am getting rid of mine. My question is can I just cap off the rear line where I tied my aftermarket brake setup at? I have the factory master cylinder with the hydro assist removed. Or should I just bite the bullet and get a new master cylinder with one outlet?

[08cumminssmoke]

You can cap it, I've seen a couple like that with no issues .


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[TheHammer]

Originally Posted by cumins01

This maybe a stupid question but here goes. Since the new 3.0 smooth bore rules say no rear brakes I am getting rid of mine. My question is can I just cap off the rear line where I tied my aftermarket brake setup at? I have the factory master cylinder with the hydro assist removed. Or should I just bite the bullet and get a new master cylinder with one outlet?

2years ago i saw a truck in indiana from kentucky with the line bent over and vise grip still clamped on it. so whatever you decide to do, im sure itll be better then that.

[cfunk]

I would Y it to the other line or get a new master. We ran with it capped for a while and the brakes were barely functional but enough to get by with.

[schnutsy]

I have mine capped at the master cylinder, front brakes are functional you just have to give the pedal a little extra push is all.

[cumins01]

Thanks for the input guys. That's kind of what I figured if it was capped off the pedal maybe a little harder. It's stiff now with all 4 brakes being manual.

[bigstacks95]

I ditched my entire master/booster setup in favor or a single Willwood master cylinder. For the price I figured it wasn't worth screwing around, plus its amazing how much space I have now!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-3376/10002/-1

[cumins01]

Originally Posted by bigstacks95

I ditched my entire master/booster setup in favor or a single Willwood master cylinder. For the price I figured it wasn't worth screwing around, plus its amazing how much space I have now!

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-3376/10002/-1

Dave, you have a picture of how you mounted it?

[bigstacks95]

Originally Posted by cumins01

Dave, you have a picture of how you mounted it?

Couple pics sorry bout the delay, and the dirt for that matter.

[cumins01]

Thanks Dave. I see you have to make a new plate. How did you hook it up to the original brake pedal?

[bigstacks95]

Originally Posted by cumins01

Thanks Dave. I see you have to make a new plate. How did you hook it up to the original brake pedal?

The master comes with a 3/8s threaded rod out the back. I had one of those stupid rods they used to use on small block Chevys to go from the side of the block to the flywheel cover kicking around my shop that I cut down and threaded to go on to the master. It just happened the right size for the Dodge pedal stud.

Yeah, I'm a bit of a macgyver.

[ramtough01]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-6764/10002/-1
I run this one on my puller. I was able to reuse to the bracket from the stock master cylinder drill new holes for the new master cylinder and did little fab work for to connect to the brake pedal. And can hold the truck way better this way then I did with the stock capped and no booster. I will get a picture in a little bit when I get by the truck

[ramtough01]

Here is a picture all mine runs is just front brakes I just grabbed each line for each side.

[bigstacks95]

Nice compression fittings! At least its not on the street

[ramtough01]

Original I had the stock booster still on and unhooked it the power steering pump and ran that for few hooks and couldn't hold the truck at all and busy with work and need to have brakes you use what's around. It will get changed not proud of it either

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