If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Home Who's Online Today's Posts HP Calculator CompD Gift Shop Mark Forums Read
Go Back   Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together > The Starting Line > Sled Pulling
Register Members List Timeslips EFI Live Library Invite Your Friends FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Sled Pulling From Street to Pro-Mod, get your Sled Pulling fix here!

Closed Thread
Thread Tools
Old 07-12-2017, 10:27 PM   #21
BluegrassDiesel's Avatar

Name: BluegrassDiesel
Title: UK2K!
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: KENTUCKY
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 4,065
Measured it in the shop. On the front I was measuring from the bottom of the fender over top of the tire, and the rear was measured directly on the hitch.
Josh Land
Bluegrass Diesel Performance
Lancaster, Ky


97 DodgePPL Limited Pro Stock "The Crippler"
09 3500 GMC CCDually
05 Silverado SS
Old 07-12-2017, 10:30 PM   #22
zstroken's Avatar

Name: zstroken
Title: For $$$ your name here
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Western Michigan(by the lake)
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 22,448
Originally Posted by BluegrassDiesel View Post
Measured it in the shop. On the front I was measuring from the bottom of the fender over top of the tire, and the rear was measured directly on the hitch.

Interesting I sure would have guessed it moving less, just ballparking the 156" wheelbase and a 44" hitch.
2008 4x4 Megacab, 68RFE
97 Dodge gone....
24V P-Pump Mafia member #1(retired)

Thanks to Mumau Diesel, Goerend Transmission, Northeast Diesel Service!
Old 07-13-2017, 02:35 PM   #23
Shawdrainage's Avatar

Name: Shawdrainage
Title: Shaw
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,613
Originally Posted by Problem child View Post
I'm also curious in this topic. 03 CR qcsb. Tried the stops and nothing but bad bad bouncing..
The videos I've seen of your hooks, looks like you are getting a slight bounce starting from the rear.

I had that issue when I got the rear tire psi too high. And I also ran a steeper angle on the traction bars. Truck got a very bad hop. Took 3-5# back out of the rears, and flatten the angle back out..... smooth passes again.

Just tossing a few things out that might help
2016 Ram Powerwagon...... Stock for now
2006 Dodge Powerwagon "REHAB" Hot Street Puller. A whole truckload of SECERT SQUIRREL stuff, but still a small block HEMI!!!
1974 Dodge Powerwagon... Undecided roller.
Old 07-18-2017, 08:57 PM   #24

Name: Duramaxfan03
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2016
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by AllIn2010 View Post
Worrying about keeping your front end down is the wrong thought process. No matter the class or HP range the contributing factor to good chassis geometry is to limit the amount that the hitch height changes when the front end raises at take off and weight transfers rearward. A good rule of thumb in a duramax is to install a small steel block or adjustable stop as previously mentioned that allows the truck to sit at a given height and not simply completely off the torsion bars. If I was setting the truck up I would raise the torsion bars just to the point where the A-Arms raise the front so that the CV axles are just slightly negative from level. This should allow you to install roughly a 2" solid steel block onto the A-arms bump stop location where the factory cushion already is. Slightly take 1-2 turns of the Torsion bar bolt back out and allow the truck to sit on the steel blocks. What this does is limits the amount of free travel that the truck will raise at takeoff and to some degree preloads the suspension enough to sit within its center of gravity. Your CV axles should practically run level once the truck is taking off. When the front end raises the hitch lowers and I can promise you that 1-2" if not more of hitch height is more valuable then trying to sneak weight upfront or fluid in the tires. Other things such as a good steering stabilizer, supports to the idler and pitman arms, straight center links, and good tie rods will also benefit your success upfront. Hope this helps.
So what would happen if I were to completely take out my torsion bars and let the front of my truck sit on the 2" blocks that I put in the front? If I don't have any torsion bars will each tire just start bouncing up and drown real bad? Since I can't hang weight off the front, with my torsion bars all the way backed off my cv joints are just a hair negative. So putting blocks in right now would not be adding anything to my set up if I'm reading this correctly. Thanks for the advice once again!
S&B CAI, MBRP intercooler tubes, PPE manifolds and up-pipes, profab turbo horn, MBRP downpipe, 5" straight exhaust, 10mm cp3, Fass 150 lift pump, 60% over injectors, studs, Custom traction bars, G2 tie rods, kryptonite center link, built trans & T-case
Closed Thread

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:01 PM.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2006 - 2019,
all information found on this site is property of