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Sled Pulling From Street to Pro-Mod, get your Sled Pulling fix here!

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Old 07-12-2017, 10:27 PM   #21
BluegrassDiesel
 
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Measured it in the shop. On the front I was measuring from the bottom of the fender over top of the tire, and the rear was measured directly on the hitch.
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Old 07-12-2017, 10:30 PM   #22
zstroken
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluegrassDiesel View Post
Measured it in the shop. On the front I was measuring from the bottom of the fender over top of the tire, and the rear was measured directly on the hitch.

Interesting I sure would have guessed it moving less, just ballparking the 156" wheelbase and a 44" hitch.
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Old 07-13-2017, 02:35 PM   #23
Shawdrainage
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Problem child View Post
I'm also curious in this topic. 03 CR qcsb. Tried the stops and nothing but bad bad bouncing..
The videos I've seen of your hooks, looks like you are getting a slight bounce starting from the rear.

I had that issue when I got the rear tire psi too high. And I also ran a steeper angle on the traction bars. Truck got a very bad hop. Took 3-5# back out of the rears, and flatten the angle back out..... smooth passes again.

Just tossing a few things out that might help
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Old 07-18-2017, 08:57 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by AllIn2010 View Post
Worrying about keeping your front end down is the wrong thought process. No matter the class or HP range the contributing factor to good chassis geometry is to limit the amount that the hitch height changes when the front end raises at take off and weight transfers rearward. A good rule of thumb in a duramax is to install a small steel block or adjustable stop as previously mentioned that allows the truck to sit at a given height and not simply completely off the torsion bars. If I was setting the truck up I would raise the torsion bars just to the point where the A-Arms raise the front so that the CV axles are just slightly negative from level. This should allow you to install roughly a 2" solid steel block onto the A-arms bump stop location where the factory cushion already is. Slightly take 1-2 turns of the Torsion bar bolt back out and allow the truck to sit on the steel blocks. What this does is limits the amount of free travel that the truck will raise at takeoff and to some degree preloads the suspension enough to sit within its center of gravity. Your CV axles should practically run level once the truck is taking off. When the front end raises the hitch lowers and I can promise you that 1-2" if not more of hitch height is more valuable then trying to sneak weight upfront or fluid in the tires. Other things such as a good steering stabilizer, supports to the idler and pitman arms, straight center links, and good tie rods will also benefit your success upfront. Hope this helps.
So what would happen if I were to completely take out my torsion bars and let the front of my truck sit on the 2" blocks that I put in the front? If I don't have any torsion bars will each tire just start bouncing up and drown real bad? Since I can't hang weight off the front, with my torsion bars all the way backed off my cv joints are just a hair negative. So putting blocks in right now would not be adding anything to my set up if I'm reading this correctly. Thanks for the advice once again!
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