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6.2 and 6.5 GM Diesel Discuss the 6.2 and 6.5 GM Diesels here

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Old 05-02-2010, 02:30 PM   #21
Huntingman27062
 
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yeah i just dont see me getting the HP44 in the front perfect enough for street use... im gonna try what i can but i doubt it... proby have DW like crazy... lol
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 05:19 PM   #22
high toned sob

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Do it with the 6.2, it will be fine. Anyone who says IDI engines are junk is a douche. You have to think about WHEN they were designed and WHAT they were designed for. 6.2, 6.5, 6.9, 7.3 engines were made for decent power and good economy. 30 years ago too. Too many guys badmouth them because they don't run like a newer diesel. Or thier gay buddies had one and it was already wore out, half the glow plugs didn't work, and all the fuel lines were rotted, so "it was a piece of junk".
200hp and 350ft. lbs is EZ with a 6.2, even more with a turbo. You just have to not be expecting bigtime power.
Anyhow, a good running stock 6.2 runs about the same as a stock 12 valve truck. Not pulling/tq wise, just everyday driving around.
What was the 89-93 12 valves rated at? 180hp and 400ft lbs? Not much more than a 6.5 td, which can be had with a 6.2 td. WOW, imagine that. Now can we say that 89-93 cummins are boat anchors? Don't listen to the haters, they are probably so cool they walk around saying "cummins are the only real engine" blah blah
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98 QC 1 ton 4x4 12 valve
91 CC 1 ton 4x4 GMC, mechanical 6.0 swap
83 Chevy 4x4 "the mighty 6.2" beater with a heater
98 S10 blazer solid axle 6.5 project, turbo or super?
97 ram 2500 12 valve built auto 4x4 sclb
 
Old 05-02-2010, 06:57 PM   #23
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lol... im not paying them any attention... i have learned that the 6.2 changed to a serpentine setup in 88... which is suppose to add alittle more power and stop the problem with the crank shaft being thrown out of balance and breaking... but the downfall is offroad if you snap a belt your screwed... the Vbelt setup is better cause you would have to snap like 3 of them... theres always one turning the water pump... but then again i could always just carry a spare serp... i found a 6.2 from like a 91 chevy sitting in the junk yard... oil pans off... intakes off... hoods gone... yatt yatta... but i could probly get it for like $50... and ive never rebuilt a engine before but this would be a great starter... eliminating internal known problems right off the bat and adding power with internal parts... they also have one in a suburban with like 200k on it but still in tact... could get for the same price... anything in the yard is "unknown" condition and sold the same as scrap... i could rebuild this one also but still has the V belt system... i can also get a V belt style 6.2 with only 13k original mile with a TH400 tranny bolted to it for $1500... im wondering what my best deal is? i could even buy both JY motors and swap the serp setup to the other engine that still in tact when i rebuilt it... and ill have spare parts... what would you guys do? buy one ready to bolt in stock? or rebuild one, take alittle longer and upgrade what needs to be upgraded? could i rebuilt one myself if im good at getting deals for $1500??? maybe $2k if i go with some performance parts... TH400's are a dime a dozen so i dont really count that... would just buy one out the JY and have my tranny buddy rebuild it built like... he did my impalas for $500 shift kits and all... so what would yall do?
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:04 PM   #24
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im kinda thinking of buying both JY motors now... lol... ive always wanted to rebuild an engine but i dont want to rebuild one for someone else first... i want to be able to run it myself for my first rebuild...
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:36 PM   #25
Wellused

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Go to Govliquidation.com and use the search function .You can buy a unused 6.2 in a weathertight metal container for $150.00.I have bought several and had only 1 that was no good and still had brand new pump,injectors and all the goodys.Most 6.2/5s never even get bid on.The minimum usually buys the(150 min) they use a round connector on the glowplug instead of a flat.Most people will tell you its a 24 volt system,its not.Only the starter is.All military starters are 24 volt.The fuel solenoids,g/plugs are 12
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:39 PM   #26
Wellused

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unless its a humvee engine,some were 24 volt solenoid. go get that 50.00 motor for parts.hummer intake will be completely diff than 99% of the motors on ther.and even if you get a hummer motor it still a deal.dont let gov paperwork and EUCs bother you.Paperwork is free and easy.I buy sev thousand $ worth of surplus every year.Its my hobby/hobby financing.
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:46 PM   #27
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ive been on there alot... but yet to have seen a motor pop up... lots of K5's though... just rough looking with parts missing... ill keep looking though... so whats the best bet for a swap then? to get a civilian starter and glow plugs? so all is the same? i dont think i wanna mess with trying to figure out what is what on the install... that $1500 one is from a army surplus place... it at one time came from one of them containers your talking about... i bet i could talk him down alot to...
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:47 PM   #28
Wellused

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by the way,over $6k on that 4bt conversion..I wish I wouldnt have added it up
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:51 PM   #29
Wellused

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I looked at 150 or more stacked up in columbus last week.I will get on there tonite and find you some.Their search engine sucks.It would take you about 1/2 hr to switch the stuff out.I couls even send you pics.I been sellin the containers for $75.Have an engine stand mounted inside
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:56 PM   #30
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well dang... i cant findthem... found a flat bed chevy at robin thats a 91... 54k... could turn around and sell the rest of the truck... i start working at Robins on the 17th too! then ill have some money to play and get this done!!!
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 07:58 PM   #31
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found one at benning now... cant search "6.2" doesnt pull them up... i searched "diesel" this time and got alot of pages but found at only this one motor...and its got the intake off and stuff.. hmmm probly go this way now... and get the parts i need off the one in the JY for a serp setup... if i can find one complete..
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 08:03 PM   #32
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gonna PM ya about this site...
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-02-2010, 09:02 PM   #33
high toned sob

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Don't be afraid to rebuild one, they are easy. No squirters, nothing fancy about them at all. Just time the cam and the injection pump right, and your good to go. Replace the balancer and check the heads for cracks. Everything is so cheap for these engines, and you'll love the power on the trail. Drive it like it's a gas engine!!
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98 QC 1 ton 4x4 12 valve
91 CC 1 ton 4x4 GMC, mechanical 6.0 swap
83 Chevy 4x4 "the mighty 6.2" beater with a heater
98 S10 blazer solid axle 6.5 project, turbo or super?
97 ram 2500 12 valve built auto 4x4 sclb
 
Old 05-02-2010, 10:22 PM   #34
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I'am a 6.5l fan but to be as real as i can b.even if this swap gains twice the power for half the price someone with half the rig will teach you a lesson.
Your not racing or trying to win a beauty contest, your trying to get from .a to .b like the rest without breakage. dont forget no one in the area has even a fuel filter much less spare parts for your powerplant.
Good luck with wichever way You go. Post picks if you do it.
TOMMY
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Old 05-03-2010, 10:10 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOMTOM View Post
I'am a 6.5l fan but to be as real as i can b.even if this swap gains twice the power for half the price someone with half the rig will teach you a lesson.
Your not racing or trying to win a beauty contest, your trying to get from .a to .b like the rest without breakage. dont forget no one in the area has even a fuel filter much less spare parts for your powerplant.
Good luck with wichever way You go. Post picks if you do it.
TOMMY
lol... i cant tell if your for the 6.2 swap or against it? lol...

im waiting on some guys to give me some ideas on what to replace while i do this to get alittle added power if i rebuild... other then a 6.5 turbo... dont think there will be enough room and im looking for more low end power anyways...not saying i wont do it but i gotta get the motor in first to see... and im sure theres plenty of write up on doing that already...
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-03-2010, 10:15 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by high toned sob View Post
Don't be afraid to rebuild one, they are easy. No squirters, nothing fancy about them at all. Just time the cam and the injection pump right, and your good to go. Replace the balancer and check the heads for cracks. Everything is so cheap for these engines, and you'll love the power on the trail. Drive it like it's a gas engine!!
yeah i would probly send them (heads)in to get dressed up alittle before the new parts... get them checked out and probly the block also if i tear it all the way down... do they make internal aftermarket part like cams and rockers and such? i may go ahead and swap the pistons to get the different compression ratio in case i do decide to go with the turbo...
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-03-2010, 11:33 AM   #37
high toned sob

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you can get a different cam, but you won't need it. I turn my 6.2 in my beater truck 4500rpm's, and it pulls the whole way. It defuels about 4250, but nevertheless, I think a cam wouldn't be worth it for what your doing. If you ran a fresh 6.2 with the fuel turned up a bit, headers, and a good intake, it would have all the grunt you'd need for a trail rig. About like a stock mid 90's BBC or BBF. If you don't have room for a turbo but "have" to have one, run a supercharger. I have not found aftermarket rocker arms, but they are pretty decently designed as is. Shaft mounted, hardened steel. NO roller tips, but they do have a roller cam. You can get aftermarket low-comp. pistons, but they are expensive. I just get mine cut down on a lathe. The crowns are crazy thick on the pistons for as old school as a diesel as they are. Plenty of 6.5 guys are running 20psi on stock compression. For less money you could always run a thicker head gasket, lower the compression a point, and pump the boost to it. But I don't think you'll need that much power. You'd be rockin at 200hp and 370 ft.lbs for a trail rig.
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98 QC 1 ton 4x4 12 valve
91 CC 1 ton 4x4 GMC, mechanical 6.0 swap
83 Chevy 4x4 "the mighty 6.2" beater with a heater
98 S10 blazer solid axle 6.5 project, turbo or super?
97 ram 2500 12 valve built auto 4x4 sclb
 
Old 05-03-2010, 11:46 AM   #38
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yeah true... i was ebay shopping and didnt find much of anything for internals... did find some .30 pistons... but thats about it... i think ill go back with pretty much stock stuff... maybe some hot glow plugs and i did find some +25hp injectors... they didnt cost anything anyways... but otherwise exhaust, intake, and thats gonna be about it... although the intake wont flow great cause i gotta run some kind of snorkle.. which they never flow great but better then flowing water... lol... im ready to start this new job and make some frickin money so i can get started... guess its a good thing cause ive got the time to read up and learn what i want to do and what it will take...
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2003H.O. 4 door 4x4 long bed, H1 2 Piece steel wheels/37's, Garmens Tranny And TC, Intake/Stacks/Guards/Rain Caps, Boost Elbow, Fuel Pressure/EGT's/Boost gauges, In Tank Pump Conversion (yuck but i didnt pay for it), Industrial Injection Stage I CP3, and MP-8...
 
Old 05-03-2010, 10:09 PM   #39
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a snorkel shouldnt affect your airflow with only 200hp. cruisen down the road it actually helped on my old toyota.
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:09 PM   #40
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a 6.5 turbo has almost no lag
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