Daily driving larger single - advice needed

SCHMITTY said:
The 1st and 2nd videos I posted are short. They show the surging at its worst.

I'm happy with the last run in the last video I posted .


Say I did get a 1.0 or 1.1 exhaust housing. If I threw enough fuel at it to get it to spool would it still surge ?


I'm not totally against a ratchet shifter with a switch for od and a switch for lock up.

I'm going to wire up that switch that was posted to keep it out of overdrive longer and also play with the fueling some more. I'll buy a larger exhaust housing last.
Click to expand...


I think with the larger housing you will still struggle with surge issues(it will just be laggy so it won't be as noticeable). I would almost say put a smaller housing on it with an external gate so you could driver the turbine hard enough all of the time to prevent surging.

Of course I might be misunderstanding, but the best way for me to comprehend the issue with surge is the turbine wheel doesn't have enough HP to overcome the resistance from the compressor side.
 
When I built this turbo I was trying to find out what housings they used... never got anywhere. So picked the one I thought would suite it the best. I know hey had options in a t3 foot. I am also curious of what housings they use.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As for the comp wheel all my research puts it as the factory billet wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Supposed to be the same wheel sizes used on the early a5k. I called them last month and they said anywhere from .85 or .80 t3 all the way up to 1.1 t4 depending on the application

I pulled the plate out this morning and this thing is does not disappoint. It cleans up my 5x16s no problem. I think if I can delay the 3-4/ lu shift it will get rid of that last bit of barking.

A shifter of some sort with a couple buttons on the handle for lock up and overdrive will be pretty fun I think and easier to handle the column shifting and toggle switches on the dash.
 
I’ve contemplated doing the same thing when my vb died... also a stand alone trans controller. Its only money as always. I’ve seen the tci ratchet shifters with lockup and od switches mounted to the handle that look clean. Should be able make a full manual switches... completely bypassing the computer. Mount it to the center console or something else creative. that would make it easy to get to, not on the dash. Not to take away from Greg’s set up, which is great when you don’t want to be flipping switches every time you drive the truck but still have control when needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not taking from gregs setup either. I have a hard enough time getting the shifts right with the column shifter. The place I have setup for toggle switches is the factory cup holder spot. I have a spare valve body that I did the jb weld manual 2nd gear lock up mod. That coupled with a floor shifter and some manual lu/od switches would be more consistent. I could probably wire up Gregs switch for dd use and make it so when it flip it off I have manual control of od and lock up.

I need to search around and see if many people have had success hitting k31s with a little spray.
 
SCHMITTY said:
Not taking from gregs setup either. I have a hard enough time getting the shifts right with the column shifter. The place I have setup for toggle switches is the factory cup holder spot. I have a spare valve body that I did the jb weld manual 2nd gear lock up mod. That coupled with a floor shifter and some manual lu/od switches would be more consistent. I could probably wire up Gregs switch for dd use and make it so when it flip it off I have manual control of od and lock up.

I need to search around and see if many people have had success hitting k31s with a little spray.
Click to expand...


K31's have been notorious for breaking the shafts.
 
I had the same problem in my truck with I ran a 66/73/14 .. and my 64.5 I fueled it defueled it it still did it. To the point that I learned how to drove around it. I needed to loosen up on the tc stall. I went to a 1800-2000 rpm stall I forget.
 
Well shoot what it is an acceptable turbo for a little no2 ? It would be for the annual diesel drag weekend and bragging rights if I could dip into the 11s

I have a solenoid with a .091" orifice and an assortment of smaller jets. It would be for the one visit I may get to make to the drag strip next year.

What you were saying about not driving the turbine hard enough- I removed the fuel plate and left the afc settings alone. I managed to get a full wot run without any barking or bucking. I was hoping to fuel it harder and possibly overcome the overdrive / lock up rpm drop. Anything less than the pedal buried into the floor mat will result in bark/surging when the last of the shifting happens. More fuel up top seemed to have helped.
 
And if your trans is quick shifting it's not helping either. I actually had a custom. 70 wg housing made to fit the 73mm wheel, in hopes it would help
 
Did it help ?

You know I swear its shifting a little earlier depending on much fuel it. I have a stock stator and that supposed to be 21-220ishI think. Definitely is too much stall for the 64/74/14 I had. I wonder if the earlier shifting would be from the motor /tranny pump not being twisted up as many Rpm's from a roll as with the 64. Not ramping up line pressure and such I'm guessing .
 
blackcloudCTD95 said:
I had the same problem in my truck with I ran a 66/73/14 .. and my 64.5 I fueled it defueled it it still did it. To the point that I learned how to drove around it. I needed to loosen up on the tc stall. I went to a 1800-2000 rpm stall I forget.
Click to expand...

I was told a higher stall would make surging, barking, falling on it's face between shifts would make it worse. I never did try it for myself though.
 
DDually said:
I was told a higher stall would make surging, barking, falling on it's face between shifts would make it worse. I never did try it for myself though.
Click to expand...

Higher the stall the greater the rpm drop when the converter locks. I would be steady 2000r and about 15psi and if I hit the lock up switch or over drive it would bark until I took my foot out of the gas..


I loosened up the stall and it fixed it, most converters will be 300ish rpm lower stall then factory. Mine was a 1600 rpm stall ( it sucked) it's now a 1900 stall
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top