Dodge 1500 EcoDiesel

It will roast the tires if I am not careful...

One thing I would like to find is a good aftermarket filter that can get rid of the expensive and crappily placed stock fuel filter. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
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I know AFE is, or is close to offering a fuel pump/filter combo. I was hoping to provide a link.. I swear I had found them available for sale somewhere, but now upon searching for it everywhere I'm looking at just says coming soon.
 
How much room is there where the filter resides? May be able to machine an aluminum part to take its place with common fitting sizes machined in it? Shoot me a PM. We may be able to CNC something for you. Wouldn't be a bad product to offer from the sounds of it.
 
The biggest problem is that the filter is directly above the drive shaft. I will go climb under and take a picture this afternoon though.
 
Keep in mind that since I have a nice, free flowing exhaust there is more room here than stock...

Bolts that mount the factory filter housing to the cross-member are 4.375" center to center.

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We will see how it plays out. For now I will keep putting miles on the rig, sitting at 84k now and I have not even had it for two years.
 
Today marks two years for me and the ecodiesel. 87,777 miles on it as it sits in the parking lot at work. So far so good. At 78k I had the EGR cooler go bad and it along with the exhaust fell off the truck. Since then the truck gets better fuel economy and has more pep in its step. It took almost a month to diagnose the EGR cooler failure, dealer was stumped and I was not about to tear into it until they confirmed it was not a warranty covered part. Here is to another 87k+ miles.
 
Today marks two years for me and the ecodiesel. 87,777 miles on it as it sits in the parking lot at work. So far so good. At 78k I had the EGR cooler go bad and it along with the exhaust fell off the truck. Since then the truck gets better fuel economy and has more pep in its step. It took almost a month to diagnose the EGR cooler failure, dealer was stumped and I was not about to tear into it until they confirmed it was not a warranty covered part. Here is to another 87k+ miles.

I've never wanted an EcoDiesel, but this thread makes me think it'd be a nice daily.
 
I daily mine 89 miles each way to work 5 days a week. It is a nice daily and even nice to take places on the weekend. It does that 3 lanes to turn it around without having to make a 3 or 5 point turn though.
 
EGR cooler delete, 2 hours. Make dang sure you have a flex head ratchet and socket torx bits.

Exhaust delete took about 4 hours, mainly because I tried to save every single sensor and had a hard time figuring out the piping for the new exhaust. If I had done them the same day and had my tools and my friends dad's lift at the same time I could have done the whole thing in about 4 hours.

Only tip I can think of is you will need a flex head ratchet, torx bits, and brake line wrenches (best if they are flex head). For the sensors in the rear just take the whole control box off, way easier than taking all of the sensors off.

On the way to work it clicked off 91k, just changed the front brake pads at 90k. Note that the Advance Auto Wearever brake pads are a little thick and cause the pads to rub for the first 500 miles. Scared the crap out of me when my mileage tanked for two days but it is back to normal now and no brake smell.
 
If you send out the ECM to get cleaned up there is no need for them. If you just cut the wires you could have the exhaust done in under 2 hours.
 
A few helpful hints for maintenance of the ecodiesel.

Get a one gallon bug sprayer like this and take off the spray nozzle and hose. Get some 3/8" clear tubing and a 3/8" ball valve and put that on where the spray nozzle and hose was. Put the ball valve about 12" from the end, not at the bottle. Get about 4 or 5 feet worth of hose. When changing transmission fluid and transfer case fluid this makes it a ton easier.

When changing the transmission fluid you do not need to get the really expensive fluid from the dealer get some of this from Wal-mart, you will need 6 quarts to do a fluid change without dropping the pan. If you drop the pan it will take a few more quarts. I bought two gallons, I think it was about $17 a gallon or so.

The transmission filter is a "Lifetime" filter and is integrated into the transmission pan, so if you want to change the filter you have to buy a pan, they are about $400ish depending on how much your dealer likes you. I did not change my filter and did the first service on the transmission fluid at 80k.

When servicing the transmission fluid you will need two people for the refill part. Once you have put all the fluid back in that it will hold with it starting to come out the fill port have the other person start the truck and run it through Park, Reverse, Neutral, and Drive for 15 seconds each gear and run through the gears as much as needed. Keep adding fluid while doing this until it starts coming out the fill hole then seal it up.

Transfer case can take the same fluid as the transmission, I have not changed my fluid in it yet but there is nothing that should be odd about the change of that fluid.

Changing the fuel filter, you are going to take a bath in diesel fuel, be ready for it. Get a gallon ice cream bucket, this will help you be less likely to take a bath in fuel. Chrysler in their lovely wisdom put the filter right above the rear driveshaft at the pumpkin. There is a drain screw in the bottom of the filter housing, it does not work, at all, don't even waste your time. Take the filter housing loose and let it drain till it stops, then pull it the rest of the way down and take the filter off.

As I think of other things I have done and helpful hints I will post them also.
 
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