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Old 01-18-2015, 07:27 PM   #1
bellabulldog

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Aftermarket Drive Shaft questions?

I'm in the process of swapping my 12v into a 47RH transmission. Turns out I need to get a new drive shaft. I haven't been able to find a 94-95 QCLB 155 WB auto drive shaft for either the reg duty or HD transfer case.

I was looking at drive shaft specialists, they seem like they make a well done product in their custom aluminum drive shafts. I don't know how powerful my truck is going to be, but is it worth it to get an aftermarket drive shaft or keep looking for an OEM one? If someone has the dodge part number for the drive shaft I'm looking for that would be awesome or if they have one they want to sell that would be even better.

They're alleging 35lb lighter weight that the steel oem one. Does that make much of a difference?

Should I just bite the bullet and pay 1k for the one of these or still hunt around because it seems like this is not the most common drive shaft out there.

Thanks,

Andrew
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ECLB '97 12v .20 Over Head Non-IC Pistons EEP Dual Valve Springs 425's + ORings K27/SXE369 PDD Compounds Weston 5x.16 Wide Angle ATS 3PC Scheid 500cc 191 DV PPump 25* 5K GSK 181/210 Airdog 200 TorkTek OFV Triple Disk Goreend TC 47RE AFC Live w/ Turbo Tuner
 
Old 01-18-2015, 07:32 PM   #2
stubz616
 
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Any 2nd Gen QCLB shaft should work 12v or 24v. Just keep in mind that the Dana 80s have a longer pinion so the driveshaft is about an inch shorter than the same setup truck with a dana 70. The only difference I've ever seen from auto to standard shafts is the standards sometimes have a balancer/weight on them.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:17 PM   #3
bellabulldog

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I have a drive shaft from a NV5600 that was on this truck when I purchased it and that drive shaft is a about a foot too short.

Doesn't the transfer case affect which drive shaft you could select? Isn't a 47RH longer than a 47RE?

I'm new to this so I could be way off.

Thanks,

Andrew
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ECLB '97 12v .20 Over Head Non-IC Pistons EEP Dual Valve Springs 425's + ORings K27/SXE369 PDD Compounds Weston 5x.16 Wide Angle ATS 3PC Scheid 500cc 191 DV PPump 25* 5K GSK 181/210 Airdog 200 TorkTek OFV Triple Disk Goreend TC 47RE AFC Live w/ Turbo Tuner
 
Old 01-18-2015, 08:17 PM   #4
Tate
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubz616 View Post
Any 2nd Gen QCLB shaft should work 12v or 24v. Just keep in mind that the Dana 80s have a longer pinion so the driveshaft is about an inch shorter than the same setup truck with a dana 70. The only difference I've ever seen from auto to standard shafts is the standards sometimes have a balancer/weight on them.
Transmissions are different lengths. So an auto/D70 is different from an auto/D80 to a NV4500/D80 to a NV5600/D80, along with the NP241DLD vs. NP241DHD. So you can potentially have 8 different driveshaft lengths for the same wheelbase.

I'm guessing you still have a 2 piece drive shaft. Take the front half of the shaft to a driveline shop and have it shortened to whatever you need. Call them ahead of time, they'll tell you what measurements they need. When I did mine, they wanted the yoke in the t-case fully seated, then pulled out an inch, and measure center to center of the yokes. This will be slightly different due to you having a carrier bearing, but the principle is the same.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:24 PM   #5
bellabulldog

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I don't have a two piece drive shaft. My truck came with a new one piece drive shaft when the original owner put the NV5600 in. It was made for the truck because the original was out of balance or something.

Thanks,

Andrew
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:24 PM   #6
stubz616
 
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I mind blanked on that one. Yes the transmissions are different lengths as well as transfer cases. For some reason I was only thinking about the rear portion of the driveshaft.
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Old 01-18-2015, 08:24 PM   #7
bellabulldog

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Misclicked into a repost.
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Old 01-19-2015, 03:14 AM   #8
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I'll vouch on their units being alot lighter!!! Many boosted launches, at 1200+ hp at 7200ish pounds, she's holding strong!! The downside, they're pricey.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:08 AM   #9
yjay
 
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I've had numerous stock driveshafts re tubed for length when doing axle swaps, double cardan swaps, etc. Pretty cheap. Especially if you are going shorter because only one end needs work. If it needs to be lengthened the whole tube needs replaced. Still relatively cheap. I used Six States in Spokane. If you had to ship it it probably wouldn't be terribly expensive, or find someone local to do it. I use them because they are fast, reasonable, and even re did one for me for free when I mis measured, and they even put my square front toy driveshaft in their jig and tacked to get it straight for me to weld when I couldn't get it right, no charge. I was dealing with Toyota and Jeep stuff, but I don't think I ever paid more than $175 bucks or so IIRC. Good folks.

http://www.sixstates.com/products/products.jsp
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:03 AM   #10
bellabulldog

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Thanks for all the help. Went ahead and got a custom rig from a local shop. Where would I get the 32 spline slip yoke for the 241ld. Did some searching around and didn't find much.
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