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Old 01-14-2015, 06:20 PM   #1
Hdhorton
 
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Ideas for '01 ppump build

I'm still learnin as I go on this stuff so just please bear with me through this. And I'm not that smart on ppump stuff but I've been tryin to read and learn what I can. I've had my '01 for a few years now and it's gettin close to 190k miles and the vp's slowly goin out. So I'm still short on money for the build but I just want to go ahead and get a parts list together so I'll know what I need when it comes time to buy, and since the people on here know way more than I do I figured I'm in good hands on here. Right now I have a 2001.5 2500 qcsb, all mods are listed in my sig. Most of it was done by the previous owner and it's gettin time I make it my own. I semi daily drive the truck mainly just on the weekends and some through the week, no towing, and I like to hit the strip now and then if I get the chance. As of now really the only thing I have for the swap is a 180 pump I picked up from a guy at school for dirt cheap. I'm goin to send it to seth at fds when I get father along on this. Probably goin to go with cpp for the conversion kit, but I'm open to any ideas on all of this. I'm unsure of what pump mods to do since I'm still pretty new on that stuff so I'm definitely goin to need some ideas there. I have a 64mm on the truck now and plan stickin a s480 under it at some point. And probably goin to swap the cam while I have it apart. Any and all help is greatly appreciated
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-14-2015, 07:57 PM   #2
Howling
 
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Seth will tell you what will work like max and bench,. 024 delivery valves, 4k springs, AFC mods bump the timing etc...
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Eric

2006 Dodge CTD/48re 4x4 Sport
With some fuel and air.
Bullseye,Hamilton,Exergy,EFI,ATS,FASS,HTS,Thuren, Toyo's...

1996 2500 RC 4x4 CTD-63/68/.83,5X.014,180 maxed Ppump,Fass...
 
Old 01-14-2015, 08:52 PM   #3
Hdhorton
 
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Yeah I was kinda figurin .024 or 191 dv's, 4k gsk, and up the timin. But timing is definitely my weak point. I've still got a lot of reading and learning to do on that. The guy I got the pump from said it ran fine on the truck but if you let it sit for a day or 2 it's like it would lose prime, any ideas on that? I thought about just spendin a little more and have the whole pump went through just to be sure everythings good but if it's not needed I'll just put that money towards something else
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-15-2015, 12:53 PM   #4
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piece together your own swap..........those kits are over priced.
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Jacob, 97 rclb
 
Old 01-15-2015, 02:10 PM   #5
Hdhorton
 
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That was my original plan but around here even motors people have already robbed swap parts off of are still askin way too much for them. And the pump I have is missin some stuff like the the throttle linkage and stuff. But right now I'm still just gettin my list together so I'll probably try to look around for some cheap parts off of a 12valve. Anybody on here runnin a 64/80 combo on the street? I'd like to know how well they spool on a street truck. Matthews8pt is runnin a set I think
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-15-2015, 02:54 PM   #6
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you will be using your throttle linkage with your apps. agkits.com for timing case. need a cam sensor adapter, eatsoot.com. pump brackets can be bought new. then need a pump gear. lines......i got lucky and found used.
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Old 01-15-2015, 03:03 PM   #7
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List needed:

-Pump
-pump gear
-12v timing case
-oil feed line
-oil feed "tee"
--oil adapter with restrictor(depends on where you feed the pump)
-conversion lines
-boost plumbing to afc(various fittings and line all depending on how you set it up)
--12v throttle linkage assembly(this may vary some also depending on what you use)
-timing case gasket
-timing cover gasket
-cam sensor adapter (your '01.5 will need this for tach and alt function)
--I would recommend a front timing cover plug and run vent tube off something else
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VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 01-15-2015, 03:12 PM   #8
Hdhorton
 
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I've read through quite a few conversion threads includin both of yours and Mathews8pt. And I'm sure I'll be doin some more readin through them when I start my swap. The guy I got the pump from has another 12v I think, so I might try and talk him to sellin me some parts off of it. I thought about just goin ahead and getting the adjustable gear. Would yall think its worth it or no?
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-15-2015, 04:58 PM   #9
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Adjustable gears are nice because you don't have to ever worry about slipping gear, but it depends on your budget. If your trying to save money then use the regular gear. Once you adjust the timing once or twice it becomes really easy and fast. I bet I could almost do mine as fast as someone with an adjustable gear could.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesixpack View Post
VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 01-15-2015, 06:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostman View Post
Adjustable gears are nice because you don't have to ever worry about slipping gear, but it depends on your budget. If your trying to save money then use the regular gear. Once you adjust the timing once or twice it becomes really easy and fast. I bet I could almost do mine as fast as someone with an adjustable gear could.


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I could do my timing in about 30-40 minutes on my 24v with a regular gear. It was about 5 minutes with the adjustable gear. It took me about 15 minutes to get the lines off and on again, since they were such a pain in the ass, though.
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:31 PM   #11
Hdhorton
 
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I was talkin to my teacher tonight about the pump I got, because the guy I got it from works from him. And he said he thinks th barrels and plungers are siezed. Is there anyway to tell if they are or not?
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-15-2015, 08:29 PM   #12
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Take out the DVs and rotate the pump and see.


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VE vs VP....isn't that like watching retard's fight?
 
Old 01-15-2015, 11:09 PM   #13
Hdhorton
 
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Ok I'll try that tomorrow before I leave for the beach. But I only paid $160 for the pump so even if it's bad I still got a pretty good deal on a core haha
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-15-2015, 11:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hdhorton View Post
The guy I got the pump from said it ran fine on the truck but if you let it sit for a day or 2 it's like it would lose prime, any ideas on that?
Probably pin holes in the rubber fuel lines on the truck.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:53 PM   #15
Hdhorton
 
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I was thinkin somethin like that but didn't know if it would be somethin pump related or not. If the plungers and barrels are seized up would it be worth rebuildin or just turn it in as a core? Like I said I've only got $160 in it
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-16-2015, 12:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hdhorton View Post
I was thinkin somethin like that but didn't know if it would be somethin pump related or not. If the plungers and barrels are seized up would it be worth rebuildin or just turn it in as a core? Like I said I've only got $160 in it

That's 1/2 core value, so you're money ahead even if it is a paperweight
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:13 PM   #17
Hdhorton
 
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Yeah that's why I wasnt too worried when I bought it, if it was good or bad because I knew it was cheap even for a core. I guess I'll just wait till I get a little more money in the bank and give Seth a call and see what we can work out. Another question I have is i just put a new fass 150gph on the truck last summer. Don't you just have to get a new spring to run enough pressure for a ppump?
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....
 
Old 01-16-2015, 02:25 PM   #18
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Buy a complete running 12 valve and the conversion lines and cam sensor adapter and save lots of the headaches. When I ppumped my 01 this made it a cake walk. Even got the throttle cable from a 12 valve for mine (5 speed) with the engine. It was a day job in my driveway before my shop was up. You can piece together a kit but I will tell you I broke even when it was all said and done by being able to sell the rest of the 12 valve and my good vp parts. Plus seeing the engine run gave me piece of mind knowing I had a good pump.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:01 PM   #19
Hdhorton
 
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That's my new plan I guess, just buy a complete motor. I know it'll be a lot easier for me bein able to see exactly what goes where since I've never really had much experience with 12 valves. But a buddy of mine that works at the tigercat dealership I used to will probably help me out some so it shouldn't be too bad. Biggest problem is right I work on the family farm and it's slowed down for the winter time, and I'm in the process of gettin a new job and it's killin my bank account haha. And most motors around here if you can even find them are listing for like $3k now. I don't know what the deal is, but every thing cummins related around here is through the roof
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01.5 dodge 2500 qcsb, garmon stage 3 trans, infinite performance 6x.013's, sxe364.5/68/.83, steed manifold, fass titanium, edge drag comp, rad box, arp studs....

Last edited by Hdhorton; 01-17-2015 at 01:03 PM.
 
Old 01-17-2015, 03:16 PM   #20
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I bet you could pick up a running truck with a pooched body for about the same as the engine alone. Should be able to get your money back on it, as you have the rest of the drivetrain to part out.
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