Mounting a carter on the frame. What do i need?

[Cummins Driver]

Well, I will be mounting a carter 4601hp(100gph 18psi) pump on my frame rail in a few days to try and get rid of my high rpm sputtering. Basically, just trying to see what i still need to get.

The pump comes with a mounting kit, some hose clamps, and the fittings for each side of the pump. Im not for sure what size the fittings are though. Anyone have an idea? Also, what size fuel line do i need to slip over the factory metal line that will clamp down tight, and what size fitting will i need for the pump?

I know the 12 valve has a factory wired relay for an electric pusher pump that comes on with the key. How do i tap into this?

Will the factory lift pump suck through this pump if it ever went out, or will i have to bypass it then until i can get a new one?

Thanks guys

Eric

[joefarmer]

The only one I remember is the fuel line was 5/16" on my truck.

[Cummins Driver]

Thanks Brandon. I figured you or Chris would know what i needed. I know he did the same thing im doing, except with a holley blue.

Eric

[joefarmer]

Sorry I don't know the rest of it. I know on mine I couldn't use the factory line since the A1000 wants a 30amp circuit. I know Chris had every fitting known to man on hand about 10' away since he was at the shop when he did his.

[Cummins Driver]

That is something to think about. I dont want to overload the factory relay, but surely a carter wont. I probably have quite a few fittings in the shop myself if i knew where they were Im sure i can make do if i know what i need though. Im just anxious to see if this will wake up this little 160 on the top end, and have it pulling to 4k without sputtering. Its worth a try anyways.

Eric

[tony597fitter]

3/8" for the supply line and 5/16" for the return.

I ran across this awhile back.
Our trucks share a wiring harness, fuel tank/sender & BCM with the Gasser trucks. Check your relay box on the drivers fender, you'll find a fuel pump circuit with a relay already in it. Everything is in place wxcept the electric pump in the tank. All you have to do is tap into the hot wire at the tank & your pusher pump will function just like a stock gasser pump (auto shutoff when there is no CPS refrence, etc.

This was written by another member on one of the other forums. I havent tried it yet, but in my 97 I have the relay and fuel pump circuit. If you look at Brandons pics (How Brandon fixed his fuel problem) you can see the tank sender housing.

Keep us posted if this works, I will be doing my Holley Blue next week.

[Cummins Driver]

So the wire that i need to tap into is already ran back to the tank? I dont need to run the wires, just tap into what is already there? I probably wont get this on till next week either, but we will see if it does what im wanting of it.

Eric

[tony597fitter]

Originally Posted by Cummins Driver

So the wire that i need to tap into is already ran back to the tank? I dont need to run the wires, just tap into what is already there? I probably wont get this on till next week either, but we will see if it does what im wanting of it.

Eric

Dont know, this is what I got of of the dieselgarage forum from one of the guys who did a Holley blue on his 96. He said the 94-98 share the same unit as the gassers.
Its pretty easy to tell, just need a test light and someone to turn the key on and off.

[tony597fitter]

Found the thread. His name is turbomatt1. He is a member on here.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ghlight=holley

[Ph4tty]

On a 24v the line needs to be cut with a tubing cutter then a 3/8 line can be clamped onto the hard line. 3/8 from the hard line to the pump and you can use whatever size from the pump to the fuel filter. A call to Vulcanperformance will get you all the lines and fitting you need for not too much coin =p

I know this is a 12v truck, but it sounds just like the install I did on mine.

[joefarmer]

Well cool! I learned something new then. 3/8" line is what you need for the inlet side.

[Cummins Driver]

Originally Posted by Ph4tty

On a 24v the line needs to be cut with a tubing cutter then a 3/8 line can be clamped onto the hard line. 3/8 from the hard line to the pump and you can use whatever size from the pump to the fuel filter. A call to Vulcanperformance will get you all the lines and fitting you need for not too much coin =p

I know this is a 12v truck, but it sounds just like the install I did on mine.

Thanks, that's what i needed to know. The pump comes with 3/8's fittings for each side, so a little 3/8's tubing and i should be good to go.

Eric

[Cummins Driver]

Well, I got it all on today. Truck definately pulls better in the upper RPM's, and will pull higher in the RPM's now than it would before. I need to change my fuel filter before i know exactly how much better it is, but I like it so far.

For anyone that is going to do this, the wire you need to tap into runs down the outside of the frame rail, and is in black plastic tubing with about 10 other wires. The color of the wire that is for the fuel pump on my truck was black and green. Id have to think it would be the same color on all of them, but i wont say for sure. It works great that way. Pump runs about 3 seconds when i turn the key on, and then comes on when i start it, and off when i shut it down. Couldnt work any better.

Where mine is a regular cab I had a hard time finding a spot to mount the pump, so I ended up mounting it on the outside of the frame rail and running the rubber line over the frame rail. It turned out pretty good for the amount of room that is there. I'll try and get pictures. Oh, and be ready when you cut the line, because it wont stop draining till you get the rubber hose clamped on it

Need to do a little more driving/testing but so far i like it.

Eric

[RacinDuallie]

So what is your Fuel Psi now?

[Ph4tty]

I guess could have mentioned the diesel bath part =X

[Cummins Driver]

I tried to find my banjo bolt to check my fuel PSI last night. I need to make sure it isnt too high. Im getting ready to go look for it again, and ill report back if I can get a gauge on it. I really wanted to get a gauge on it before i put the pump on, and then after, but i didnt have any ferruls for my line, and i was too impatient to wait. It definately runs better though.

I kinda expected the diesel bath, just not that bad

Eric

[Cummins Driver]

Fuel pressure is 25psi idle, and jumps to about 35psi anything off idle, then sits right at 40psi anything over 2500 all he way to 4k. I havent driven it with the gauge yet, so i dont know if it pulls down much or not. I actually thought it would be higher than this. Should I shim my overflow valve to make it put out a little more pressure? I have heard not to run over 60psi, but I figured another 10psi wouldnt hurt me?

Eric

[Schoust]

Hmm so this will have no effect on how the stock pump functions? I'm thinking this could be a part of my issues up top but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to prove it. CD did you observe an actual pressure drop on a gauge at wide open? Is your stocker older? Just wondering if this is a common problem? I always thought that there were no issues with a 12 valve up to 500 hp??

[Billysgoat]

To keep from getting the bath (as bad) have you a piece of fuel hose handy, soon as you cut the line take said hose and use it to blow the supply line from the tank clear of fuel.

[Cummins Driver]

Originally Posted by Schoust

Hmm so this will have no effect on how the stock pump functions? I'm thinking this could be a part of my issues up top but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to prove it. CD did you observe an actual pressure drop on a gauge at wide open? Is your stocker older? Just wondering if this is a common problem? I always thought that there were no issues with a 12 valve up to 500 hp??

Well, there arent issues up to 500hp. My truck always had plenty of fuel from idle to 2800rpm, but seemed to fall off, and start stuttering after that. I could make 500hp if i had more fuel and a charger no problem, but unless bigger injectors and a charger help, it would still be sputtering at 2800rpm and up. Every 160, and 175hp pump i ever had dealings with would sputter under load over 3k rpm's. My cousin should be a decent bit over 500 on a stock lift pump with a 180 pump, and it will pull to over 4k with no problems.

The only reason for me putting this pump on was to try and get it to pull to 3500rpm or better, and it has accomplished that. I drove it just a little today, and it pulls good to 3400rpm or so now. I havent checked my fuel pressure under load, but I will drive it some tomorrow with the gauge on it, and report back with how the fuel pressure reacts under WOT. Im anxious to see if it drops much or holds at 40psi. And no, this pump has no effect on the stock pump. It just pushes through it. My stock lift pump isnt even a year old, and I have a new overflow valve that i have shimmed for more pressure. It still quit pulling hard at 3k with a new fuel filter, and 2800 with a dirty fuel filter. My fuel filter needs changing right now, and with this carter on here now, it pulls to 3400 or so without a problem. Gained about 600rpm that i didnt have before. Im gonna change the filter before too long, and see how it does then. Should get another couple hundred RPM out of it. I also picked up 2psi of boost, so i know its fueling harder

So far I am happy. Ideally, a FASS pump, or an Aeromotive pump would probably take care of my issues completely, but I dont have the money for that, and this way I can leave the stock pump on, and if the electric pump goes out, and I bypass it, and run off the stock pump till i can replace the carter.

Eric