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Old 09-19-2020, 01:15 PM   #41
BC847
 
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I remember that thread: Crank lightening - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

Lots of the build pics here: http://www.devilscastle.net/
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 09-19-2020 at 01:17 PM.
 
Old 09-19-2020, 09:52 PM   #42
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Cummins with 20kg lightened crankshaft, at idle. - YouTube
Cummins with 20kg lightened crankshaft - YouTube

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Old 09-20-2020, 12:40 AM   #43
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Still dicking around. This time, I had to make a connecting rod balancing rig right quick. Cut out and stacked some phenolic discs mounted loosely and lubricated so as to be able to help settle things with the rod mounted. Some steel trap bent to form the appropriate brackets and poof! Pardon the messy bench. I make things on it.

Click the image to open in full size.



So . . I got the piston-ends to 616 grams:

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The crank-ends to 1372 grams:

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All the connecting rods weigh 2006 grams each:

Click the image to open in full size.

The big chunks of the balancing-pads I cut off averaged about 65 grams each. I figure there's another 40~60 grams of powdered iron each.



Still gotta do the piston assemblies.
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-20-2020, 10:19 PM   #44
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Was able to enjoy some actual Fall like weather today. Hope your day was just as nice.

Checking the complete piston assemblies finds one at 1834 grams. The others were up to two grams heavier. I trimmed the existing chamfer on the ends of the internal bore of the wrist-pins so as to bring them down to match the former:

Click the image to open in full size.



Got all of the pistons and rods assembled. The tops of the rings pointing up. Each properly oriented 120* from the next. The rods installed in the pistons with the numbers to the passenger's side and the forward of the pistons sho'nuf forward:

Click the image to open in full size.



Slid them boys in there and secured with ARP bolts slathered with the ARP squeezins and pulled up to 95ft/lbs in multiple steps:

Click the image to open in full size.



I reckon I can slip in the cam and finish that in the front gear-case next, huh?
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-21-2020, 09:07 PM   #45
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Slipped in a cast 188/220 camshaft:

Click the image to open in full size.



The gears timed, retainer and bronze cam thrust thing. Everything blue Loc-Tited. I'll come back and check the cam degree stuff once the head and associated valve-train stuff is in place.

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The connecting rods clear the girdle:

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So far, so good.
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-21-2020, 10:08 PM   #46
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Even left the right amount of rust on the gear.

Sent from my motorola one action using Tapatalk
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Old 09-22-2020, 05:52 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggy238 View Post
Even left the right amount of rust on the gear.
Yeah, and I told myself I was gonna spray something on it to.

I reckon I need to get out there to it . . .
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-23-2020, 01:56 PM   #48
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I love following these kind of engine builds, they are the most interesting to me. As for the connecting rod balancing, do you just trim off the top and the bottom?

Engine is looking great!
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Old 09-23-2020, 09:48 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMJ_LB7 View Post
As for the connecting rod balancing, do you just trim off the top and the bottom?

Engine is looking great!
Yes, after lightening, That's what I did essentially. Thanks.

Slipped in the 24v lube-oil pump, lube-oil heat-exchanger and passenger's side freeze-plugs:

Click the image to open in full size.



Cleaned up the injection-pump and started fitting it. Jump the gear one tooth or two? Hmm . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Hoping to receive more small parts so as to button up the oil-pan soon.
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-25-2020, 11:01 PM   #50
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Got the gear-timing of the injection-pump nailed down and buttoned-up the gear-case. Finished the girdle install.

Click the image to open in full size.



Gotta lay hands on the oil-pan.
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-26-2020, 08:12 AM   #51
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Did you skip 1 or 2 teeth on the pump gear?

I see that tent is still serving its purpose.
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Old 09-26-2020, 08:09 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
Did you skip 1 or 2 teeth on the pump gear?

I see that tent is still serving its purpose.
One. With the triples, I had to back off the injection event static timing as I recall (was two).

Yes. The "Temporary Structure" (for tax purposes) is actually working well for its task. I've insulated the roof and installed LED lights along with a small AC unit. With the way I have it built on sleepers, I can disconnect the Earth-anchors and literally drag it to where ever. The ten year cover warranty tipped things for me.
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-28-2020, 10:28 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Signature600 View Post
If you find a way to stop the tappet cover from leaking let us know!
I figure that, for the most part, excessive crankcase pressure is what pushes oil past such seals. I got a gas-axe, maul, anvil and TIG-torch so . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Is that wrong?
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 09-28-2020, 11:03 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC847 View Post
I figure that, for the most part, excessive crankcase pressure is what pushes oil past such seals. I got a gas-axe, maul, anvil and TIG-torch so . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Is that wrong?
That's kinda brilliant...
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Old 09-29-2020, 10:23 AM   #55
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Nice work !!
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Old 09-29-2020, 06:49 PM   #56
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Love the build !
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Old 10-01-2020, 08:53 PM   #57
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Been dicking around with nailing stuff to the short-block. Still got a little more. Might start working on the head this weekend.


I don't care for the apparent reliability of the O-rings on the fancy Freeze-Plugs. While they aren't really that old, during cleaning the things, I found that the surface of the O-rings were starting to crack. Screw having to fix a leak right down the road. I replaced them with the standard freeze-plugs. The ones that last 25 years or so.

Click the image to open in full size.



The dual crankcase-vent mess looks like it fits just fine.

Click the image to open in full size.




Click the image to open in full size.



We'll see, huh?
__________________
Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 10-02-2020, 06:39 AM   #58
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What is on the back of the block, above the adapter plate, covering that freeze port? I have not been around a automatic VE so I am unfamiliar. And you are running a crank case vent on the timing cover also, I spotted that.

No such thing as too much breathing.
 
Old 10-02-2020, 07:11 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
What is on the back of the block, above the adapter plate, covering that freeze port? I have not been around a automatic VE so I am unfamiliar. And you are running a crank case vent on the timing cover also, I spotted that.

No such thing as too much breathing.

That is actually a coolant supply head for air compressor equipped applications, but many folks use them as a coolant bypass to lower block pressure.
 
Old 10-04-2020, 12:33 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snedge View Post
That is actually a coolant supply head for air compressor equipped applications, but many folks use them as a coolant bypass to lower block pressure.
It feeds the remote transmission heat-exchanger under the cab as well.

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 10-04-2020 at 12:40 AM.
 
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