Truckers, lets see your rigs!

chevota84 said:
That sounds dickish after I reread it and that's not what I intended lol.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Yea calm your tit, we don’t allow that kind of attitude on here. Someone could get their feelings hurt and need to use Rig Wrench’s cry closet.
 
biggy238 said:
All I'm saying is who is actually doing to show that X setup is in peak efficiency at 1:1? It is (very well put) arbitrary.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



All most people do is change wheels/housings and drive. Pressures change and temps change and you decide what works for you.
 
Cause I’m bored...
ee9887c7d6e76737d8e6d805a7b1eef8.jpg

8d4028d64a5e36d1e7edb42ccd828a7e.jpg

105dbcd51432e8847711e5feb2f558ba.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
chevota84 said:
I get that, but we're using it to monitor a setup that's in use, not engineering a turbo from scratch. Since you rarely see under 1:1 at wot we should able to use that number as an estimate of overall effeciency even though it won't cover every eventuality. You've seen a lot more turbos than I ever will; when would a 2:1 setup be efficient and a 1:1 wouldn't be?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It is honestly such an arbitrary number that it depends entirely on what you are doing, what wheels they are, what you are after with the truck, etc... For instance: Let's take an HX60 into account. In a scenario where the front side of the thrust is getting trashed consistently with 2:1 on an over the road application you want to get drive pressure down for pure reliability. Obviously the turbine forces are so far outweighing the compressor side that it is breaking through the oil film on the bearing and trashing it. The same turbo in a competition setting you WANT that high drive pressure in most cases to keep the thing lit at the end of the track. OR look at it this way: let's say that 2:1 drive is with a 3.4 turbine vs a 3.6. The 3.4 may not trash the thrust with 2:1 as opposed to a 3.6 as the 3.4 may apply less thrust load than the 3.6 with the same drive pressures. The next thing you have to think about and take into account is why the drive pressure is there. Is it because you are physically choking it with too small of a turbine side or is it because you are requiring so much shaft hp to maintain the demands of the compressor side (be it side or pressure or both) that it just takes that much drive pressure to achieve your goals?

Long story short: drive pressure is for tuning a setup if you know the parameters you are after. Past that don't worry about it unless you have either reliability issues or issues staying on top of the turbo.
 
zfaylor said:
It is honestly such an arbitrary number that it depends entirely on what you are doing, what wheels they are, what you are after with the truck, etc... For instance: Let's take an HX60 into account. In a scenario where the front side of the thrust is getting trashed consistently with 2:1 on an over the road application you want to get drive pressure down for pure reliability. Obviously the turbine forces are so far outweighing the compressor side that it is breaking through the oil film on the bearing and trashing it. The same turbo in a competition setting you WANT that high drive pressure in most cases to keep the thing lit at the end of the track. OR look at it this way: let's say that 2:1 drive is with a 3.4 turbine vs a 3.6. The 3.4 may not trash the thrust with 2:1 as opposed to a 3.6 as the 3.4 may apply less thrust load than the 3.6 with the same drive pressures. The next thing you have to think about and take into account is why the drive pressure is there. Is it because you are physically choking it with too small of a turbine side or is it because you are requiring so much shaft hp to maintain the demands of the compressor side (be it side or pressure or both) that it just takes that much drive pressure to achieve your goals?

Long story short: drive pressure is for tuning a setup if you know the parameters you are after. Past that don't worry about it unless you have either reliability issues or issues staying on top of the turbo.
Click to expand...

Mr. Zfaylor lets this nugget slide past the filter. Thanks!

So in the HX60 context, on the street you want low drive pressure for reliability, but competition you want high drive pressure to generate enough shaft HP to spin the compressor where you want it. But having too small a turbine side and the resulting high drive pressure is something completely different.
 
Last edited:
Ok kw ladies. 2011 w900 with an sdp, been deleted by deisel spec I believe, I dont think that has anything to do with this though. On a hard pull it will be fine for a bit, but after a good minute or soo off 100% torque load it will start to stumble then the boost and oil psi gage will drop to 0. Its still makes boost and oil pressure. But the gages read 0. Let up on the throttle for a bit and it goes back to normal. Ideas??
 
Rig Wrench said:
Ok kw ladies. 2011 w900 with an sdp, been deleted by deisel spec I believe, I dont think that has anything to do with this though. On a hard pull it will be fine for a bit, but after a good minute or soo off 100% torque load it will start to stumble then the boost and oil psi gage will drop to 0. Its still makes boost and oil pressure. But the gages read 0. Let up on the throttle for a bit and it goes back to normal. Ideas??
Click to expand...



So it’s heat related.
 
You drive it with ET and see if it follows the dash?

Could it be the ecm isn’t tuned correctly for the turbos? I’ve heard that can happen but usually only in Europe.
 
Rig Wrench said:
No connection issues with et. But ill start diggin again when i can get my hands on it for longer
Click to expand...



Well the dash plug uses that j1922 to connect to the engine. With a glider the dash will work but you can’t connect to the engine without the j1922 jumper harness. So just because ET will connect the dash may not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top