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6.0 Powerstroke Discussion of the 03-06 6.0

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Old 03-01-2015, 08:51 PM   #1
Chace TX

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Stud this truck?

New to me 07 F350 crew 4x4, stock, fleet maintained (no towing) to 200k. Egr is leaking (it started buring anitfreeze out the exhaust and the driver stopped and had it towed in) reputable local diesel mechanic gave owner an estimate of $2400 (egr cooler and oil cooler) to fix it and the owner sold it to me as is. I have deleted egr, and replaced oil cooler on 6.0's with similar issues before and they are still on the road, but I just fixed those trucks and later sold them. At this point I plan on keeping this truck for a ranch truck, it will haul often and sometimes heavy. I will tune it but keep it mild, would like to get it up to similar levels with my stock 2012 6.7. I have rebuilt several 5.9 Cummins and worked on (rebuilt every major component multiple times) on Dodges for years but I have had a buddy come work on the 6.0's in the past so I have virtually no 6.0 experience. I'm not in the best shape anymore and pushing 40 but thinking of tackling this one myself, have a shop and tools but no lift. I am trying to decide between doing EGR delete/oil cooler/updates/tow tune/exhaust (custom SCT), or to do full bulletproof with studs and gaskets along with above. It will be a second or third truck so not the end of the world if I do blow a head gasket later, I can fix it then, but once and done is nice too, just hard for me to put in the time to do head studs if I would be fine without them. I drive sensible and have never blown a stock head gasket or turbo etc with modded 5.9's and 7.3's in the past. Thanks for reading.
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:42 PM   #2
vinniehobart

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Alot of friends are doing decent with stock headbolts, deletes, and gearhead custom tuning. Most of them run the SRL tune and seem to be doing just fine. They run that tune for the shifting quality and the mileage. no racing or abuse and seems to be holding
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:44 PM   #3
RDPsmoker
 
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I would just do the deletes and a head bolt friendly tune. Then just drive it! Also make sure you get a delete kit with a new up pipe and not a plug!
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Old 03-01-2015, 09:57 PM   #4
Chace TX

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Exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I used both Sinister and PMM egr deletes in the past, any preference? Best place to get the EGR delete/oil cooler/and Ford updates all together?
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:03 PM   #5
RDPsmoker
 
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http://www.mkmcustoms.com/basic60pow...FQaRaQodeCQAfw

You can get with a site sponsor and give them this part number. Also add a coolant filter to the truck to help out.
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:25 PM   #6
Chace TX

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10-4 I did see one solutions kit from Sinister that had the coolant filter kit included. Will try to find a part number. Do I need the turbo feed, turbo drain, STC, dummy plugs, stand pipes, and blue spring updates to keep it reliable?
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:41 PM   #7
RDPsmoker
 
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I would sense you'll be close to all the parts. Don't think 07 had the dummy plugs but I could be wrong.
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Old 03-02-2015, 07:12 AM   #8
Scooter's Roofing

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Personally, I wouldn't mess with the head studs unless you're just ate up with trying to make a bunch of power (notice I said trying)

I just sold an 06 the other day, but I bought an 07 a couple weeks ago. It's got 200k on it and it needed an oil cooler.

I did coolers, high pressure updates, some injectors, and a power steering pump (it was weak at a dead stop) and the truck is a Cadillac now.

Currently running canned SCT tunes (which really are sweet... the truck is quiet, runs great, and gets great fuel mileage) I'm waiting on my Gearhead tunes. I run them on all my trucks. I just run the standard SRL and don't abuse the truck, and I have no plans for doing head studs. That's worked out great for me on my previous three 6.0's.

IF the truck ever lifts a head, I'll detune the truck and drive it for another couple years while deciding if I want to stud it or not. (kidding, but you get my point)

It's silly how many people think that you have to pump $5k+ under the hood of every 6.0 on earth as soon as you buy it, yet I see them come in and out of my buddy's shop with 200-300k+ on stock head bolts all the time... Biggest factor there is that those truck owners are more concerned with getting up and down the road every day and don't spend all their time on forums daydreaming how to outrun their buddy's 6.4 and reading about all the "bulletproof" stuff they need to spend their money on to fix stuff that isn't broken.
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Last edited by Scooter's Roofing; 03-02-2015 at 07:13 AM.
 
Old 03-02-2015, 10:56 PM   #9
Chace TX

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Thanks Scooter. I have a friend with over 400k on his 06 and another with 380k both on stock head studs and both running bulletproof egr coolers. Several injectors is the only major items they have replaced since the egr/oil cooler was done. I have not driven this truck because it is loosing coolant in the exhaust pretty fast but I started it cold after sitting for over a month and it has no miss or stiction issues, it does have a long crank before starting every time, so I will scan it before I tear it down but planning on all the oil updates, hope I got lucky on the injectors. Going ahead with the top end updates and cooler replacement/delete.
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Old 03-11-2015, 11:25 PM   #10
Chace TX

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Got the top end torn down and waiting on a few parts. Got the ford updates on the way and got the egr delete kit with oil cooler and coolant filter today. Truck has 239k miles and I am being advised to do the hpop while I am this far into it. I can get alliant hpop and ipr for about $400 less than ford. Anyone have problems with alliant parts?
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Old 03-12-2015, 12:34 AM   #11
Scooter's Roofing

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NO!!!!!!!!!! Stay away from Aliant with 6.0's. Ford or International OEM ONLY!!!!!!!

Personally, I wouldn't touch the HPOP. They rarely shell out completely without showing signs of weakness first. It might go 500k if you change the oil regularly
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Old 03-15-2015, 07:24 PM   #12
Chace TX

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter's Roofing View Post
NO!!!!!!!!!! Stay away from Aliant with 6.0's. Ford or International OEM ONLY!!!!!!!

Personally, I wouldn't touch the HPOP. They rarely shell out completely without showing signs of weakness first. It might go 500k if you change the oil regularly
So just do the STC update and put the stock HPOP back in? High failure rate with alliant pumps in 6.0's? Local mechanics use lots of alliant parts hadn't heard of them being bad on 6.0 parts other than their injectors.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:52 PM   #13
Scooter's Roofing

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I just like OEM whenever possible.

The difference in price on parts rarely costs more than downtime from a failure
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:41 PM   #14
Chace TX

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10-4 on OEM, Alliant and OEM usually = the same quality. I pulled the pump today and the cam is galled on one lobe I can see under the pump. It's 3/4" x 3/16" or so. Didn't see any other damage, I need to turn it over and see if there is anything else back there. Is this common? Fix what's broken and dump this one?
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:44 AM   #15
matty169
 
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Bad lifter galls cam. I have 3-4 at the shop now and a 6.4 all with the same issue.
Why fix it and dump it?
Fix it and drive it.
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Old 03-16-2015, 01:18 AM   #16
Chace TX

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Quote:
Originally Posted by matty169 View Post
Bad lifter galls cam. I have 3-4 at the shop now and a 6.4 all with the same issue.
Why fix it and dump it?
Fix it and drive it.
So new factory cam or aftermarket? Replace all lifters or just those on galled lobes? I have done cam swaps on Cummins but nothing on powerstrokes. Is there a lnk to the cam swap instructions?
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:19 AM   #17
Scooter's Roofing

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Cam swap is a big job.

It's a motor overhaul at that point.

Definitely replace all lifters.

I would seriously consider dropping a good running pull out motor in it or slap it together and send it to auction.

If you're not scared off, let me know, I might have a good cam and gear
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:43 AM   #18
Chace TX

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This truck is going away. Thanks.
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Old 03-16-2015, 08:09 AM   #19
Scooter's Roofing

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Lifter failure is a bummer. It's not a rampant failure point, but when it happens, it's a total bummer because you're going through the whole engine if you want it right.

No reason to cobble it together if you're planning on spending any seat time in it.

They really can be great engines. 8200hrs on my 07 without a bit of blowby! (Knocking wood to prevent lifter failure! )
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:56 PM   #20
Chace TX

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