Crank lightening

ttammeslehto

New member
Few shots of my crank lightening project. I rough cut counterweights down by using die grinder, big and small. Then I put it in a lathe, to turn them down much as possible. Which leads to another build up. To install a frequent controller to an old lathe to make it stop, ones stop button is hit, and make it turn slowly enough. Because you can't allow it to make a full circle, or you will be cutting journals too. The journals had been drilled out long time ago. I was just too busy with other things to get progress. Just recently I have had a few hours in a week to work with. Some of you maybe recall me from TDR. Where I had the Cummins in to a -90 burban thread. Anyway, if you want check more of the journal drilling pics. Take a peek to my page http://www.devilscastle.net
BTW. what the heck has been happen to the TDR forum, checked it out and it all looks so quiet?

Timo
 

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AHA! I knew it would only be a matter of time before you showed up again!

Welcome to compd! very cool project! ive ready through it a couple times.


TDR is just old school i guess, compd is where its at now!!
 
Yep, I finally surfaced again... Good to hear that I'm not alone with my thoughts. Here's a few shots of the crank on a lathe.

Timo
 

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Spend a quite few evenings after work at the shop by milling the crank back to shape. Slowly it starter to look a lot more better than after the rough cutting.

Timo
 

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Rod oiling will not be an issue with those large holes through the journals?
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Ummmmm, just a dumb question. How do plan on balancing it with that much of the counter balance removed. Just my experience balancing cranks but that doesnt look like its going to balance at all
 
Ummmmm, just a dumb question. How do plan on balancing it with that much of the counter balance removed. Just my experience balancing cranks but that doesnt look like its going to balance at all

I would assume from the large holes he drilled.
 
I would assume from the large holes he drilled.

Those holes would have to be alot bigger then that to get it to balance back out or it going to have to have a ton of heavy metal added to it which is kinda defeating the purpose of removing all that in the first place
 
only way that would EVER ballance would be 100% external,( with heavy weights on the ballencer and the flywheel) or weld counter weights back on...

Poor crankshaft...
 
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Spend a quite few evenings after work at the shop by milling the crank back to shape. Slowly it starter to look a lot more better than after the rough cutting.

Timo
who/what gave you the idea how and why to do this
only way that would EVER ballance would be 100% external,( with heavy weights on the ballencer and the flywheel) or weld counter weights back on...

Poor crankshaft...

Even if you could externally balance this crank you would have huge amounts of weight on the balancer and the flywheel and i dont mean a little im talking multiple pounds on each and that isnt going to happen. The only way to do this safley would be take some off the journal and match it on the counter side then take more off one side and match it, not cut everything off and hope its close. They use to do this in extremely large diesel engines that only turn 200-300 rpms not 3000 rpm engines. If you put this crank on our crank balancer it would vibrate like crazy and through itself on the floor.
 
It wont put it close at all. You have to match the weight of the journals some how or it wont balance. A stock cummins B-series crank is normally with in 3-5 grams out on either side he removed 25 pounds and 85% came from the counter side of the journal so some how you have to try and get it to balance. Ive got another engine builder sitting here and he almost feel out of his chair when i showed him the pics. I love seeing people try new stuff but sometimes they go alittle far.
 
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I feel unbalanced sitting in my chair looking at this. But we all have a method to out madness. Nothing new would get invented if there wernt guys out here like this you have to try inorder to suceed.
 
I remember looking at this stuff several years ago wondering how the bottom end was supposed to work. The head porting looks great, I cannot believe he cut O-ring grooves with a drill press though.

I admire the perseverence, but some of the work is misguided.
 
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