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Old 09-19-2018, 11:18 PM   #21
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The 12v isn't going to sound like a 24v .
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1975 f250 6.0 Perkins,twins,2006,6sp allison
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Old 09-20-2018, 03:06 AM   #22
Mo Smoke
 
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My 12v sounded really nice with a CR manifold and CR turbo into a MBRP 4" SS system
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2000 F-250 DESTROKED... 12v
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Old 11-19-2018, 07:46 PM   #23
Bersaglieri
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meyers Farms View Post
Yes I kept it in the stock position because I didn't want to move the driveline. I used a set of flex a lite fans from Jegs I believe. I would have to look up the p/n again (if I could find it). The fans have kept the truck cool while towing in the summer, although the controller for them has not been super reliable.
I'm kicking the electric fan idea around more. Although reliability is paramount, I like what I am reading about the increase in mileage from them. JQmile documented 2-3mpg, as well as Hammer with as high as 3.1mpg. Even if I got 1.5mpg I would consider that a win.

Electric fans would solve a few isses in my situation.

#1 Driveshafts are left alone. One of mine is fresh with new Spicer joints and a balance.
#2 It solves an issue specific to the Excursion, since unlike the Super Duty it does not have a second set of holes to move the transmission crossmember back to. I would need to move and make my own assuming nothing else is in the way.
#3 It would eliminate issues with having to modify or fabricate a fan shroud.
#4 It sounds like it could help with cruising MPG on the highway. Around town I don't expect or need good MPG. However highway MPG is where I like to shine. And we do not tow much of anything with the Excursion so the 18,000lb GVWR limit for the Flex-a-lite fans is not an issue.

Meyers Farms What were your specific issues with the fan? Gotta keep and extra controller in the truck just in case?
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Last edited by Bersaglieri; 11-19-2018 at 07:48 PM.
 
Old 11-20-2018, 07:44 PM   #24
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I have had trouble a couple times with the controller not turning the fans on. I’m really not sure what the issue is but I would pull over and mess with the temperature adjustment knob on the controller and they would turn on. Recently I’ve been having trouble getting them to turn on at all. I haven’t looked into yet but it seems the controller on my particular set has always been an issue.
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Old 11-25-2018, 07:13 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersaglieri View Post
I have a thread in the 7.3l area that tells the story up to 321,000 miles. Excursion Project: The War Wagon - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together Recently the gremlins and other wear parts are starting to pop up. Now I am on the edge of two cliffs, dump money into the 7.3l or step up to a familiar 5.9l Cummins. Before I jump off the Cummins cliff I looked over the edge and had some questions.

Cummins: I am familiar with the PPump motors, but it seems the VEpump trucks start better in the winter when not plugged in. Sure building a powerhouse would be fun, but a in reality 400rwhp should be plenty for us. I like compounds but a VE motor with a HE351 would be a good all around performer in my eyes. I am trying to keep it reasonable for her to drive, and a VE pump would limit me from doing stupid things
I did a CR in mine. Originally an 03 with the throttle cable but have since switched to a 06 harness for EFI live tuning with shift on the fly adjustability

Transmission control: PCS TM-2000, Simple Shift, US Quick Shift. What is everyone using, which is preferred? The Excursion doesn't tow often, but when it does it's under 8,000lbs, usually a utility trailer or something similar. I have never tuned a transmission so I don't think I would be able to get it right for a long time, so I would rather just buy a tune or pay someone to tune it for me. Simple Shift has dials for adjustment which seems helpful for live tuning. How is tuning for a built 4R100 vs a stock one?
I have run the PCS with a 4R100 since day 1, It came from BTS with a base tune, I have since made tweaks to it to my liking

Destroked vs DCS: One better to deal with? Better support on the electronics? Better fit? Better parts? I heard Destroked has better motor mounts. I don't want to cobble**** this together, I want cruise, dash, A/C, adjustable pedals, all that stuff to work.
I used Destroked parts. They have worked for 10 years without issue. You will not be able to keep the adjustable pedals with a cable set up. If you use the 06 pedal you might be able to fab a mount but I have not tried. I used the GOS pedal mount when I change ocer to the 06 harness. Cruise I have not addressed and I really don't miss it. Dash work perfectly other than the check engine light on. I could probly take the dash apart and remove the led but it does not bother my enough to do it. I am sure a tuner could burn a chip to turn it off.
Mechanical fan: I read the motor and transmission needs moved back for this. Mechanical sounds good in the world of mechanical motors but if moving everything back 3.5" for one and possibly run into more issues with driveshafts, firewall, transmission mounts, perhaps electric is the way to go.
I run an 06 6.0 radiator and fan shroud with the GOS fan adapter and a Hayden fan clutch. Only complaint is the A/C is a little weak in stop and go traffic due to the fan clutch not locking up as well as I feel it should. I used a pickup trans crossmember and just drilled new holes to install. I also turned the trans mount 180* which reduced the amount the trans crossmember had to be moved and the mount holes had to be slotted. Since I am lifted I needed different drive shafts anyways so that was not a deal breaker for me.

How hard is it to wire in relays for the Cummins grid heater? I would prefer two grid heaters for better cold weather starts.
Easy to do. Grab the signal wire from the engine harness and connect the power cables to the battery just like the factory does. I fabbed up a bracket to hold the relays off the side of the battery tray.

What am I missing? Can this be done without becoming a basket case that wears me out?

Thanks guys.
You can do this with some time and patience.
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02 Ford Excursion 03 5.9 CR conversion, F1 cam, springs & stg II sticks, ATS Dual Cp3, Floor it pump kit, Air Dog, Garrett stg3 from Turbo Re-Source, BTS trans, Destroked Adapters, PCS Trans Controller, Hypermax Intercooler,EFI Live by Cummins Tuner, 8 lift and 38" tires
 
Old 05-25-2019, 10:10 PM   #26
Bersaglieri
 
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I haven't posted in this thread as much as I have the VExcursion one in the 1989-1993 Dodge section, so here is a little update:


I bought a set of Flex-A-Lite fans, I am hoping they hold up. If not I guess I can salvage the shroud and build off of it.

I still plan to flip the stock manifold, however, if I run into issues with the down pipe/bellhousing/plate I may run the industrial one. I have a 58/60/12cm Holset HX35/40 hybrid and a 60/68/.70 Borg Warner on the bench. From what I am told a HX35 is maxed out at 325hp on a intercooled VE motor, a hybrid will go a hair more than that. The S360 should be capable of 350-375hp. Therefore, I am leaning S360, so I have some room to grow and it doesn't run on the hot side. Also,when you are building everything custom, it's nice to only have to build it once. For the record, it seems the stock 7.3L downpipe is a Marmon 4" vband that necks down to 3" pipe. If a single doesn't suit me, compounds are the next consideration, but they are a challenge to fit in a super duty.

The biggest change of plans was recently unloading all of my 4R100 stuff and going all in on a 6 speed Allison. We put alot of highway miles on this truck and I just could not pass up an opportunity to have a .61 over drive. Lower cruise RPM and hopefully better MPG as well. I currently only have the transmission from a 2006 truck, so I need to order a bunch of stuff from Destroked and a wiring harness from Jason at transmissiontuner.com. He builds a custom harness for each truck that includes a base tune on an Allison TCM [I assume medim duty]. It can be access and modified via EFIlive.

The unfortunate truth of this build is it's quicking nearing the 1 year mark...
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Old 12-04-2020, 09:00 AM   #27
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open sesame
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Old 12-09-2020, 01:37 AM   #28
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So I took a page from DieselWrencher's book and this has officially become a 160hp Ppump/47RH conversion.

From the VExcursion thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersaglieri View Post
My VE friends, I've got some good news and some bad news. The good news is after a long pause, I'm back on this project....the bad news is, a 160hp Pee pump motor and 47RH is going to see it through. I figure the question is, WHY?! It's mainly a time issue, I just can't find time to build this VE motor right now. I was pretty passionate about putting a VE in this thing but when I found an unmolested motor, with a fresh trans, for a good price I couldn't pass it up.

If it's not too much salt in the wound, I'll probably just keep updating this thread, unless, of course, the pain is too much to bear


Click the image to open in full size.


The motor has 300,000 on it but has been well cared for and is bone stock down to the tamper screws on the pump. The 47RH is a Jasper reman with low miles, billet single disk and a few other updates. I will be starting a thread on the trans in the 94-98 section. The motor I plan to do almost nothing to. I'll have it on the stand tomorrow removing some of the unnecessary parts, checking it over, and bolting on conversion parts.

The power goals haven't changed, I've still got 2 chargers to choose from, and we all know it'll be cake to hit those goals with a 160 pump.
I also started a thread in the 94-98 12v section to ask about some mild transmission mods that could buy me time until the inevitable full trans build happens.

Jasper 47RH - Upgrades? - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together



At this point the only challenge I don't have a plan for is the 47RH to the Excursion NP273. I have read that the input on the NP273 needs changed, and that makes sense. However, I am reading that without modification the 47RH will leak fluid out the rear between the OD housing and the Tcase. It is also said that a clock ring or adapter plate is needed to close the Tcase in the proper angle.

Let the games begin!
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Old 04-30-2021, 03:23 PM   #29
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It is finally in! It's going in stock, however, I did replace the tamper proof screws for Tom-foolery at a later date.

My pictures flip themselves when I upload them?
Click the image to open in full size.

Now I am working on the small parts.

Power Steering: There are 3 lines from the Ford and 2 on the Dodge Pump. I read the pressure line from a early powerstroke Van bolts in, I'll post that info if I can verify it.

A/C Lines: I think Napa might be able to adapt the Ford ones over. I read online that if things have been disconnected this long to replace the compressor and the dryer.

I modified the Ford battery and starter cables to reach the drivers side starter.

Trans lines and exhaust shouldn't be a problem. This 1st gen downpipe should be a good starting point and as usually I am using 400psi rubber trans lines. Any tips on flushing out the cooler?


The transfer case issue that is unique to the 47RH has been resolved in two ways. First, they make a output shaft seal extension you drive into the OD housing that helps it engage the tcase input. Second, I found a company that machines down the front half of a NP273 case and installs a clock ring. Normally adding clock ring would cause seal issues, but this case half is machined to make up for the clock ring thickness, which I believe is 3/8". I will try to take some pictures when I split the case and change the Tcase input shaft.
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Old 05-01-2021, 10:59 PM   #30
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Not exactly the same setup...

But my third gen manifold and downpipe bolted right up to my Flo-Pro Ford exhaust with the extension pipe for a long bed.

I bet your's will be pretty easy too.
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Old 05-03-2021, 11:58 AM   #31
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Exhaust is proving to be one of the easy items to check off the list.

I am having PATS issues it seems. Long story short, I am leaning towards using the key combined with a push start button like my Ram. I feel like I am leaving a big pitfall open on an otherwise tough and reliable setup if I allow PATS control if or when the truck starts.
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Last edited by Bersaglieri; 05-03-2021 at 12:02 PM.
 
Old 05-06-2021, 01:24 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bersaglieri View Post
Exhaust is proving to be one of the easy items to check off the list.



I am having PATS issues it seems. Long story short, I am leaning towards using the key combined with a push start button like my Ram. I feel like I am leaving a big pitfall open on an otherwise tough and reliable setup if I allow PATS control if or when the truck starts.
What pats issues are you having?

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Old 05-06-2021, 08:17 AM   #33
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No start problems. It did the same thing with Hydra tunes without the PATS provision. I can manually hot wire start it with the key on, but only if the Ford hot wire is disconnected from the computer to the starter solenoid.

I talked to the dealer about testing my keys and they said it can't be done without the Excursion on site. That isn't possible right now, not to mention the confusion when I show with a 12v/47RH powered Excursion. Of course then there is the cost of $150 no start diagnostic fee plus the key chip program costs of $125 per key. For $400 I will just put a push button in there for ignition. From what I have experienced with this truck, PATS seems like it would be the silver bullet to the 12v/47RH combo.
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Old 05-12-2021, 11:13 AM   #34
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As it turns out the Dodge/Cummins throttle cable is broken. I also think it'll be a close call to reach the pedal if I cut it and put a new end on. I dug up these Lokar cables and I think the blower or early TPI models might have the exact ends I need to attach it to the stock pedal assembly.

Lokar : Throttle Cables & Kickdowns
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Old 06-25-2021, 10:51 AM   #35
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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Project is mostly done and has seen some road time. I need to wire up a few things, do the A/C lines and a couple little things. Even being a 100% stock 160hp/400ftlbs motor it drives pretty good, however adding some power is inevitable.

I don't have the room on here to upload all the pictures but there were a lot of small things that soaked up a good bit of time. The turbo intake pipe, I dug out of a diesel shop's exhaust scrap bin. The transmission mount I made from two 1st gen engine mounts in order to get proper engine tilt and transfer case/body clearance. The intercooler pipes are exhaust pipe. I also had to modify the shift linkage and make a bracket to adapt to the 47RH.

One more thing I wanted to mention. Most people who run a 47RH have to cut up the driveshafts, but I positioned the motor to run electric fans but keep stock driveshafts, so it can be done, but not with a mechanical fan setup. The flex-a-lite kit didn't fit either so I'll be installing something else.

Almost forgot, the Dodge pressure powersteering line threads right into the Ford hydroboost. They sell a conversion line for like $150 for that, but mine threaded right in with no leaks. I did bent the steel line to get the angles right. I used a brass tee for the returns.

Basic Rundown:
1994 Cummins with 306,000 miles
HX35/40 58mm hybrid from North American Turbo
Jasper 47RH with DPC low stall triple disk converter, Maghytec Pan and Goerend Flexplate
Hiatt/Carrick Customs motor mounts with blue Peterbilt bushings
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