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Old 10-30-2010, 08:31 AM   #1
crabbelle

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setting up No2

just picked up a nitrous kit for the 12v. i was going to run one nozzle in the intake horn with a hobbs switch set at like 40psi and just an arming switch. the kit is just for the dyno, nothing else. so i figured that around 40 psi my turbos are lit and i will have enough fuel. my setup is ddp4's with 62-71-14 over s483. what size nozzle(s) do you think i should run.

thanks in advance

Bobby
 
Old 10-30-2010, 08:57 AM   #2
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Jets are for people that are skeered.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:03 AM   #3
crabbelle

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that me reword that, what has worked for people in the past, i dont care about placement just nozzle size or no nozzle at all lol
 
Old 10-30-2010, 11:07 AM   #4
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Bobby, on my old 12 valve I used to drag race I plumbed a nitrous line in the turbo to intercooler pipe with no jet (-3) line and the best I can remember I used a 42 jet in the intake. This was a ZEX kit and I know for a fact that the jet #'s from other brands and ZEX are different. Sorry I don't have and dyno number's for you to compare, but I did gain 7/10ths on the track. Gary
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:29 AM   #5
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No2...

Nitrogen dioxide is the chemical compound with the formula NO2. One of several nitrogen oxides, NO2 is an intermediate in the industrial synthesis of nitric acid, millions of tons of which are produced each year. This reddish-brown toxic gas has a characteristic sharp, biting odor and is a prominent air pollutant. Nitrogen dioxide is a paramagnetic bent molecule with C2v point group symmetry.


I doubt it's going to help you much Bobby.

N2O would probably be a better choice...

Nitrous oxide, commonly known as laughing gas, is a chemical compound with the formula N2O. It is an oxide of nitrogen. At room temperature, it is a colorless non-flammable gas, with a slightly sweet odor and taste. It is used in surgery and dentistry for its anesthetic and analgesic effects. It is known as "laughing gas" due to the euphoric effects of inhaling it, a property that has led to its recreational use as a dissociative anesthetic. It is also used as an oxidizer in rocketry and in motor racing to increase the power output of engines. At elevated temperatures, nitrous oxide is a powerful oxidizer similar to molecular oxygen.
Nitrous oxide gives rise to NO on reaction with oxygen atoms, and this NO in turn reacts with ozone. As a result, it is the main naturally occurring regulator of stratospheric ozone. It is also a major greenhouse gas and air pollutant. Considered over a 100 year period, it has 298 times more impact per unit weight than carbon dioxide.[1]
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:44 AM   #6
crabbelle

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well scott i just wantd to be different

the kit i have is a ZEX. if i can get away without running jets, im happy with that, less choices.

i may just tap the horn and run a line to that. this isnt going to be progressive or staged, i want it to be setup were when the air/fuel ratio is able to handle the spray, the N2O will be there
 
Old 10-30-2010, 01:49 PM   #7
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how much fuel do you have left to burn? how big of a jet will your solenoid and line flow? how much more power are you looking for?
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:53 PM   #8
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i have plenty of fuel, im not sure of the soleniod and i would like to have 900+
 
Old 10-30-2010, 08:10 PM   #9
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Keep your lines short and your selenoids close. Heres a picture of my setup.

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Old 10-30-2010, 08:56 PM   #10
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Nitrous

If your using it for the dyno you need to bring it in long before 40 psi. Not sure on the size of turbo but you need to hit it quicker than that or your numbers will be low. It would work ok at the track but dyno's need a different setup form my tinkering. Jeff
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:06 PM   #11
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Be safe to start smaller on the jet size and work your way up so you can keep an eye on boost and drive pressure and tune your wastegate accordingly. Maybe start with a .070 jet and move up from there. Your solenoid probably flows about .125, you will be fine with that solenoid wide open in the intake horn but it will be a much harder hit than if you put it pre-intercooler. You will most likely make more power with the nozzle pre-intercooler. I haven't played with nitrous on a twin turbo truck yet but I am told that between stages is the way to go.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stingpuller View Post
If your using it for the dyno you need to bring it in long before 40 psi. Not sure on the size of turbo but you need to hit it quicker than that or your numbers will be low. It would work ok at the track but dyno's need a different setup form my tinkering. Jeff
Good point. All of my advice was from a drag racing standpoint. The dyno will take a lot of nitrous and a lot sooner, also the intake horn will work better.
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:13 AM   #13
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I have a .135 activated at 15psi and it worked without popping. Flipped the second switch manually as quick as I could for the second stage.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:46 AM   #14
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so should i set the hobbs switch at like 15-20 psi? do i want the nitrous so hit when the turbos are lit or when they are almost lit? with my setup on the street they lit around 2200 and the boost is around 20-30psi by then. i know when on the dyno they we lit a little later and have less boost numbers. just to be clear this is a dyno queen only, no drag racing. when i get home i'll figure out what solenoid i have

Last edited by crabbelle; 10-31-2010 at 09:48 AM.
 
Old 10-31-2010, 11:29 AM   #15
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Sounds like 20 would work great...it would hit right before the turbos are fully spooled and help bring that on sooner too. like Cole alluded to, the closer the solenoid is the the nozzle the harder (sooner) it hits.
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:47 PM   #16
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on my old hobbs switch it had an allen wrench fitting that i could adjust for the right psi at which it would activate.

I was running a 66/71 and had it set at about 17psi. when i had it on the dyno, i gained 220hp when it hit. It was like a straight line up, then when the charger was lit i really only netted about 35hp. I cant remember the jet size but im thinking it was with a 100-105 hp jet. Let me rephrase the 220 gain. It was 220 over what i made on fuel at that part in the curve.

15 psi was borderline to low where it would start popping and backfire. I started with 25psi and backed it down from there. about a 1/4 turn at a time.
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Last edited by FireMed; 11-01-2010 at 03:49 PM.
 
Old 11-01-2010, 05:28 PM   #17
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Subscribed, Crabbelle have you dynod that current setup? Kinda curious where it is now. 12mm or 13mm pump? I have been pondering alittle spray also
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Subscribed, Crabbelle have you dynod that current setup? Kinda curious where it is now. 12mm or 13mm pump? I have been pondering alittle spray also
Really now?


 
Old 11-01-2010, 06:13 PM   #19
crabbelle

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no i havent dyno'd, the pump is a 175 pump with the usual mods and 191. it wont clear the fuel on the street so i know it wont clear it on the dyno. i tried making it to a few events this fall but im in the process of airbagging it
 
Old 11-02-2010, 04:45 PM   #20
Btp 2332
 
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lol ya never know snedgemaster, dads truck came with all that nitrous stuff on it but we took it off. Maybe I will just let him try and catch me haha.
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