12v or 24v head??

I contacted sheid awhile back regarding doing a motor for a pulling tractor I was building.They said if you are starting from scratch go 12v hands down. They said they can't fit big enough valves into the 24v head to get the flow out of it like than can with a 12v head. I can't remember the guys name I talked with.

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horsinaround9 said:
I contacted sheid awhile back regarding doing a motor for a pulling tractor I was building.They said if you are starting from scratch go 12v hands down. They said they can't fit big enough valves into the 24v head to get the flow out of it like than can with a 12v head. I can't remember the guys name I talked with.

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LOL Whatever you say. So a salesperson at Scheid told you that's the way to go huh? Scheid does like the 12v head but like I stated earlier, most pullers do. And it DOES NOT have to do with flow. You can get a sh!t load of air out of a 4 valve head. It is a better design. To make it simple... Draw a circle. Now draw 2 circles as big as you can inside it. Now draw another circle the same size as the first, and draw 4 circles inside that one as big as you can. The 4 circles take up more area...

They both have good and bad characteristics but as I said earlier I prefer a good ported 4 valve head for drag racing. IMHO you would be an idiot to spend the money converting yours to a 12 valve solely because you've already got it and they will both work. If you had a 12 valve my recommendation would be to leave a 12 valve head on that. It's just not worth the hassle.
 
If you add up the cost between the two. And what it would take to change your setup. You would be money ahead to stay with the 4v head. You can get some incredible flow numbers with a 4v head. I know I have the paperwork to prove it.
 
If you want a 12V head, I will straight up swap you with the coolant temp sensor, the coolant neck and hose, and the alternator bracket all included. Let me know!
 
little6cylinder said:
LOL Whatever you say. So a salesperson at Scheid told you that's the way to go huh? Scheid does like the 12v head but like I stated earlier, most pullers do. And it DOES NOT have to do with flow. You can get a sh!t load of air out of a 4 valve head. It is a better design. To make it simple... Draw a circle. Now draw 2 circles as big as you can inside it. Now draw another circle the same size as the first, and draw 4 circles inside that one as big as you can. The 4 circles take up more area...

They both have good and bad characteristics but as I said earlier I prefer a good ported 4 valve head for drag racing. IMHO you would be an idiot to spend the money converting yours to a 12 valve solely because you've already got it and they will both work. If you had a 12 valve my recommendation would be to leave a 12 valve head on that. It's just not worth the hassle.
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As I stated in my post, that is what sheid told me. I called 3 shops that day. Sheid, haisley and tst. They all said 12v. He asked a question, which was also a question I was asking a couple years back. I called 3 very reputable shops and that's the answer I got. My situation was different though as I didn't already have a p pumped 24v all setup like the op and I was building strictly a puller. If it was me, I would stay with the 24v head as well if I were in his situation. I myself like to gather as much info as possible from all sources and make my own decision. Everyone is open to there own opinion. Those opinions are what make forums great. You get to hear all sides of the argument, so to be speak. So I just wanted to pass along my side.
 
Yes all this info is a huge help. Does anyone know of a good cummins guy around the CT area to do port and polishing? Also is it worth doing the stronger rocker arms or the heavy duty spring kit from Haisley?
 
I have a virgin 24V head setting at Joker Fab, they can do anything you want to it.
I just want to get my money back out of it after some a-hole pulled a quick one on me.


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