Catch can drain valve

[9724VF350]

I'm looking for a drain valve for a catch can before I make one myself. What I'm looking for is a valve that will open and close when engine oil pressure is applied to it. I'm wanting to run the drain back to the crankcase, so when the engine is shut down it will open and drain the can, but when you start it a line that goes from the oil galley to the valve will move a piston, poppet, ect and close the drain line off.

Anyone know of anything like this?

[Vincejax]

Originally Posted by 9724VF350

I'm looking for a drain valve for a catch can before I make one myself. What I'm looking for is a valve that will open and close when engine oil pressure is applied to it. I'm wanting to run the drain back to the crankcase, so when the engine is shut down it will open and drain the can, but when you start it a line that goes from the oil galley to the valve will move a piston, poppet, ect and close the drain line off.

Anyone know of anything like this?

I run 2 catch cans, one from tappet cover with 2 -10 lines and one from timing cover with a single -12 line, both cans are above their vent locations. Never had them overfill and oil drains back no problem. No need for any valves.

[9724VF350]

Originally Posted by Vincejax

I run 2 catch cans, one from tappet cover with 2 -10 lines and one from timing cover with a single -12 line, both cans are above their vent locations. Never had them overfill and oil drains back no problem. No need for any valves.

I figured you'd want the drain closed off while the engine was running to keep crankcase pressure from pushing up through.

[Vincejax]

Originally Posted by 9724VF350

I figured you'd want the drain closed off while the engine was running to keep crankcase pressure from pushing up through.

Isn't the whole point of the vent and catch can to relieve crankcase pressure? My catch cans serve me well at low rpm, or moderate street driving which I do a little bit of. When I am high rpm/full boost I have a -12 line through a checkvalve from the valve cover to a venturi in my exhaust stack. With this setup I do not have any significant oil leak/blowing seal issues. Even at 4500-5000+ rpm and 90psi of boost.

[9724VF350]

Originally Posted by Vincejax

Isn't the whole point of the vent and catch can to relieve crankcase pressure?

Well yeah, but typically though the inlet of the catch can, not exactly though the outlet/drain.

[Vincejax]

Originally Posted by 9724VF350

Well yeah, but typically though the inlet of the catch can, not exactly though the outlet/drain.

If you put it towards the bottom of the can instead of the top, they can be one and the same. Makes it easier to not splash out of your breathers also.

[Vincejax]

Originally Posted by Vincejax

If you put it towards the bottom of the can instead of the top, they can be one and the same. Makes it easier to not splash out of your breathers also.

If you were going to do anything to drain your cans when you shut the truck off, use an electric valve on the ignition. Running engine oil pressure to open and close a catch can is unnecessarily complicated and risky. fitting or line comes loose and now you lost oil pressure. But I don't see any need for a valve in the first place.

[joefarmer]

You could maybe use a CR crank case vent check valve? 4090097 closes if the crank case pressure is more than the pressure inside your canister.

[QMFB]

No valve needed. I've made and sold several now out of 4" sch10 stainless. 2 an10 inlet, 1 an10 outlet, 1 5/8 barb drain back to the block.
Cap about 8" of 4' dia sch10 pipe, split it in half, plate over the first 30% of the area, next 30% double layer expanded sheet, last 30% single layer expanded sheet...
Weld back together.
Works like a charm. Won't lose a drop of oil. No check valve needed

[zachu812]

Originally Posted by QMFB

No valve needed. I've made and sold several now out of 4" sch10 stainless. 2 an10 inlet, 1 an10 outlet, 1 5/8 barb drain back to the block.
Cap about 8" of 4' dia sch10 pipe, split it in half, plate over the first 30% of the area, next 30% double layer expanded sheet, last 30% single layer expanded sheet...
Weld back together.
Works like a charm. Won't lose a drop of oil. No check valve needed

Got a picture? Sounds like a nice setup.